I don't like disc brakes

meanredspider

rubertoe wrote:

Anyone seen the Spyres yet?

i see fatbirds list them but no stock yet.

Anyone know the release date?

The Hy-Rds aren't expected until end-July - I'm guessing the Spyres will be the same.

Anybody who is struggling with setting up the BB7s, watch the Volagi video. It's the method I use and I've had no trouble with it at all.

If you still have issues, maybe your wheel bearings are the problem meaning that the discs are moving.

That, or you are just trying to set the pads too close to the rotor.

wastegate86

That's funny I'm the opposite, I'm currently converting from a 2010 genesis equilibrium (which will be for sale soon) to a lynskey sportive disc
Commute most days of week so find road brakes poor in wet conditions plus wearing down my wheel rims just seems stupid

lostboysaint

You are ghey, end of subject.

bobinski

Wastegate86 wrote:

That's funny I'm the opposite, I'm currently converting from a 2010 genesis equilibrium (which will be for sale soon) to a lynskey sportive disc

I have just spent my lunch looking up the lynskey sportive and comparing to the Kinesis ATR. Thinking about replacing my 2 bikes,especially my Alfine hubbed crosslight pro commuter, with just the one and the Lynskey looks ideal. Though i would be buying British with the Kinesis. I think either would look great with an Athena build in silver and a nice set of wheels from Ugo, perhaps even 2 sets the first with a dynamo hub and the second a really light set for the weekend miles.

asprilla

rubertoe wrote:

Anyone seen the Spyres yet?

i see fatbirds list them but no stock yet.

Anyone know the release date?

Distributor says July.

ugo.santalucia

bobinski wrote:

Wastegate86 wrote:

That's funny I'm the opposite, I'm currently converting from a 2010 genesis equilibrium (which will be for sale soon) to a lynskey sportive disc

I have just spent my lunch looking up the lynskey sportive and comparing to the Kinesis ATR. Thinking about replacing my 2 bikes,especially my Alfine hubbed crosslight pro commuter, with just the one and the Lynskey looks ideal. Though i would be buying British with the Kinesis. I think either would look great with an Athena build in silver and a nice set of wheels from Ugo, perhaps even 2 sets the first with a dynamo hub and the second a really light set for the weekend miles.

You don't need two sets, just one set and a spare front with the dynamo hub. May I suggest not to go the Campagnolo route for the chainset? I have an ultra torque chainset for my commuter... it is nice but the bearings are too exposed to last. If you really really want a Campagnolo chainset, then go for the cyclocross option, which has some extra seals and fingers cross better bearing life. Otherwise just get a Campagnolo setup, but go for a standard square taper chainset with internal bearings... something like Stronglight... it ain't Campagnolo but does the same job

redvee

My BB7s have been on the Kaffenback for 400 miles now and other than a fettle after 100 miles once everything had settled down they haven't needed anymore fettling. I can see the rear tyre wearing out quicker than on my SS due the fact I can lock it up far too easily.

Ouija

menthel wrote:

I will have a google for the vid later- sounds similar to the installation instructions that come with but I have been tightening one bolt fully each time. That may cause some of the trouble.

If you do it that way, the caliper moves and twists the rotor slightly as your tightening up the bolt so that as soon as you back off the pads they aren't properly aligned with the rotor any more, forcing you to have to back off the static pad by too many clicks with the red wheel. Do it right and you should only have to back off the static pad from the disk by one or two clicks to stop any rub (assuming disks are straight). The further away you back off the static pad the less braking performance you get as more of the pressure being applied to the brake lever is diverted into bending the rotor than actual clamping/braking force.

In fact, a mechanical brake caliper is just as capable of applying as much clamping force to the rotor as a hydraulic caliper. The reason the hydraulic is better is down to the hose, not the caliper. Hydraulic fluid doesn't compress, so eighty pounds of pressure applied at one end results in eighty pounds of pressure arriving at the caliper at the other end.. all of which gets turned into clamping force. The only exception to that is if there is a air bubble in the hose in which case some of the force gets diverted into compressing the bubble and not all pressure arrives at the caliper.

Mechanicals act like hydraulics with an air bubble in the hose. The reason for that is that the outer cable compresses, the inner cable flexes and the rotor flexes too (if you don't get the static pad close enough). So eighty pounds of pressure applied at the brake lever can be siphoned off in inner/outer cable compression and rotor flex so that as little as half of that gets turned into clamping force.

Just like an hydraulic system with an air bubble in it the classic symptom of this happening is the pads making contact with the rotor almost as soon as you touch the brake lever but no real breaking seems to take place until you've got the lever all the way back to the bar. This is a sign that the pressure being applied is being bled off into other things (compressing air in a hydraulic system, compressing outer cable, flexing inner cable and bending the rotor in a mechanical system).

So. The key to setting up a good mechanical system is to:

A) Get rid of as much outer cable as possible. Just the one going from the levers to the frame is preferable. And use thicker, less bendy/compressable Jagwire cable rather than the thin Shimano stuff. Never run an outer all the way from the lever to the back brake. And if you have to have a bit of outer going from the seatpost to the rear brake, make sure it's slightly too short and doesn't bend the inner cable any (acts just as a anti-rust sheaf)

Try to use geometric straight lines for the inner cable. The more curves the more the inner cable will flex when pressure is applied to it as it tries to snap into a straight line. If you can see your cables 'twitching' when you pull the lever, your losing some of the pressure being applied to the lever.

C) As stated above, get the static pad as close to the calliper as possible (the moving pad can be backed off a reasonable way) by doing up the bolts gently and incrementally (don't just stick and allen key in each bolt and give it one almighty twist until it's tight). A little bit of grease underneath the head of the bolt can help prevent it from shifting the caliper as you tighten it up.


Do all of the above and, like a hydraulic system with no air bubble in it, you'll find nearly all of the pressure being applied to the brake lever will get transferred into braking/clamping force at the calliper , with very little loss.

The next problem you'll face is that the brakes may end up being a little bit too aggressive and 'snatchy' (the slightest touch of the lever feels like it's going to throw you over the bars with very little in the way of modulation, but that can be fixed fixed with different brake levers that apply a different pressure curve to the cable).

The Rookie

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Ouija

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