BB30

davoj
davoj Posts: 190
edited June 2013 in Workshop
Hey guys,

I am sure this has come up before but my BB30 has started to creak (loudly) for the 2nd time this year, My local bike shop has now replaced the bearings twice in 5 months.

I have done about 5000km since January and the weather hasn't been great but this is crazy if this has to be done on a regular basis, this is the first time having a BB30 so this problem is new to me but from what i am reading this is a regular occurrence or is it?

Also excluding replacing the bearings & Lube/Oiling (short term fixing) than what else can i do?

Cheers

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    get a KCNC conversion BB and fit a set of 24mm axeled cranks. (shimano)
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • smidsy
    smidsy Posts: 5,273
    davoj wrote:
    Hey guys,

    I am sure this has come up before.

    In which case a few minutes with the search function would yield quicker results to your question.

    viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=12914575&p=18332749&hilit=bb30#p18332777

    PS: it has come up before.

    IMO BB30 is generally poorly executed and you are best avoiding it.
    Yellow is the new Black.
  • davoj
    davoj Posts: 190
    smidsy wrote:
    davoj wrote:
    Hey guys,

    I am sure this has come up before.

    In which case a few minutes with the search function would yield quicker results to your question.

    viewtopic.php?f=40004&t=12914575&p=18332749&hilit=bb30#p18332777

    PS: it has come up before.

    IMO BB30 is generally poorly executed and you are best avoiding it.

    Good work Smidsy!!

    PS: see it easier for you to do the work for me :-)
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    It's likely down to micro-movements of the bearings due to poorly machined BB housing. Loctite 641 Bearing Fit is a semi-permanent engineering adhesive which will hold them more firmly in place - non-engineering types consider this herecy, but if it's good enough for aero-engines...
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • smidsy
    smidsy Posts: 5,273
    Surely you mean engineering types. Non engineering types would not even know about it and if they did they would not know enough to question its use :-)
    Yellow is the new Black.
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    What is the frame out of interest?
    If it is creaking beyond sorting out, I'd also probably go the conversion route
    alternative http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/ ... apter-68mm
    You get green loctite 609 with this :wink:
  • davoj
    davoj Posts: 190
    JGSI wrote:
    What is the frame out of interest?
    If it is creaking beyond sorting out, I'd also probably go the conversion route
    alternative http://www.fullspeedahead.com/products/ ... apter-68mm
    You get green loctite 609 with this :wink:

    The Frame is a Bianchi sempre. I was chatting to the mechanic earlier and he was saying that a chap has already had 3 sets of bearings replaced already this year, he informed me that with the weather we are having and the use they are getting that is seems to be the norm with the BB30.

    Also I asked him him did he have the BB30 and he smiled and said "no way"! I didn't realise they would cause this much hassle and cost and will stay away from it in the future.

    Thanks for all the feedback and tips.
  • davoj
    davoj Posts: 190
    Someone mentioned on another forum that a lot of water travels down the seat post and this cause the majority of the creaking so just thrown this idea out there but could you seal the seat post water resistant silicone?

    I am sure that this is a bad idea but thinking of ideas on how to decrease the amount of replacements I would have to do each year.
  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 17,359
    what monty dog says re the poor machining

    as for multiple replacement of bearings, it can be down to poor maintenance, these bearings are not waterproof, the seals will keep out lumps of crud, but not water, riding in the rain without mudguards will result in water going down the seat tube, pooling in the bb shell and washing out the grease

    if i know i'll be doing a really wet ride i stick a bit of plastic film over the top of the tube and secure it with a rubber band, even on non-bb30 frames it stops water and crud getting in, which with conventional bb fittings can eventually result in corrosion and seized threads

    but i still had plenty of surprise soakings without doing this, resulting in lots of water in the bb shell, my (sram) bearings came with clear instructions on how often to regrease them, i follow the instructions, it takes 15 minutes every few months, it's a trivial task, i ride in all weathers, bearings are still doing fine after years and tens of thousands of km

    i also remember to invert my bikes, bb30 or otherwise, after a wet ride to let them drain out, some people seem to prefer keeping a portable swamp inside the bike!
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • davoj
    davoj Posts: 190
    sungod wrote:
    what monty dog says re the poor machining

    as for multiple replacement of bearings, it can be down to poor maintenance, these bearings are not waterproof, the seals will keep out lumps of crud, but not water, riding in the rain without mudguards will result in water going down the seat tube, pooling in the bb shell and washing out the grease

    if i know i'll be doing a really wet ride i stick a bit of plastic film over the top of the tube and secure it with a rubber band, even on non-bb30 frames it stops water and crud getting in, which with conventional bb fittings can eventually result in corrosion and seized threads

    but i still had plenty of surprise soakings without doing this, resulting in lots of water in the bb shell, my (sram) bearings came with clear instructions on how often to regrease them, i follow the instructions, it takes 15 minutes every few months, it's a trivial task, i ride in all weathers, bearings are still doing fine after years and tens of thousands of km

    i also remember to invert my bikes, bb30 or otherwise, after a wet ride to let them drain out, some people seem to prefer keeping a portable swamp inside the bike!

    Thanks will try some of those methods.
  • gaddster
    gaddster Posts: 401
    The fsa press in shell thing mentioned above is a pretty permanent conversion, if you like the convenience and easy removal of any conversion then something like the Praxis or rotor converters might be worth looking at.
    ARTHUR
    "Hello oh great one"
    LARRY
    "Are you talking to me or my ass?"
  • ddarkeh
    ddarkeh Posts: 25
    +1 for Praxis, i've had it for a couple of months now and no issues and I didn't like the idea of pressing in something permanent (although there are methods of removing those), obviously 2 months isn't a long time but previously I had creaking within 1 month. Only downside to Praxis conversion is they only make it currently for hollowtech cranks and it's quite expensive
  • Ben6899
    Ben6899 Posts: 9,686
    Just a note on water ingress. The Starley I have ordered (R1) comes with a rubber sheath which fits over the seat post / seat tube / collar to stop water ingress. I think that's quite a neat idea and one which could be easily replicated with a length of old inner tube.
    Ben

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