Rear derailleur cable issue.
freshe
Posts: 63
Hi all,
A while ago I got myself 2nd hand Felt QX80D. The bike was very, very dirty. So I stripped it all and kept the frame and fork. Got new groupset for my b-day a week ago (trekking deore xt) and slx disc brakes.
The problem I have is the rear derailleur cable routing. From the shifter cable goes in the stopper on the down tube near head tube. Then the cable runs without casing goes through another stopper on the bottom of down tube near the bb through a plastic cap with tongue (I kept this from the old set up). After that the cable goes through a plastic guide underneath the bottom bracket. And after that is where my problem start. Underneath the bottom arm of the rear fork (not sure if thats the correct name for it - is it a chainstay) there are no cable stoppers. Instrad there are some kind of profiled guides that casing fits in and is secure with c-shaped plastic clip or catch that fits into two holes. This is how the rear brake hose is secured to the frame btw. The problem is that the shifting casing isnt thick enough to be held firmly by that c-shape clip so it moves easily. There are 3 of these guides on that chainstay and then the cable in casing makes the loop and fits into rear derailler.
The guide nearest the bottom bracket is I think where the shifting cable enters the casing again. Initialy I put an outer end cap which is thicker than casing in hope that c-clip will hold it in place. In the other two guides I used zip ties to secure the casing. Now (maybe I did smth wrong here) but when I try to shift to the latgest sprocket the whole casing is pulled towards the bottom bracket guide. All because there is no stopper on the bottom of chainstay that will lock the cable and the c-shape clip isnt locking it ether.
My only and basically last idea (after this I think I get new frame) is that instead of outer end cap Ill use the second plastic cap with tongue that the cable will enter the casing from the bb guide. And I will try to secure it with zip tie instead. This cap has a ring at the end that could rest on the zip tie and hopefully stay in one place when shifting.
I did click the shifter all way to the smallest chainring and tightened the adjustment barrel before securing the cable in the derailleur. I also adjusted the limit screws but the casing mived while shifting.
Sorry for long description but I have no computer and Im only using iphone so cant post a picture.
A while ago I got myself 2nd hand Felt QX80D. The bike was very, very dirty. So I stripped it all and kept the frame and fork. Got new groupset for my b-day a week ago (trekking deore xt) and slx disc brakes.
The problem I have is the rear derailleur cable routing. From the shifter cable goes in the stopper on the down tube near head tube. Then the cable runs without casing goes through another stopper on the bottom of down tube near the bb through a plastic cap with tongue (I kept this from the old set up). After that the cable goes through a plastic guide underneath the bottom bracket. And after that is where my problem start. Underneath the bottom arm of the rear fork (not sure if thats the correct name for it - is it a chainstay) there are no cable stoppers. Instrad there are some kind of profiled guides that casing fits in and is secure with c-shaped plastic clip or catch that fits into two holes. This is how the rear brake hose is secured to the frame btw. The problem is that the shifting casing isnt thick enough to be held firmly by that c-shape clip so it moves easily. There are 3 of these guides on that chainstay and then the cable in casing makes the loop and fits into rear derailler.
The guide nearest the bottom bracket is I think where the shifting cable enters the casing again. Initialy I put an outer end cap which is thicker than casing in hope that c-clip will hold it in place. In the other two guides I used zip ties to secure the casing. Now (maybe I did smth wrong here) but when I try to shift to the latgest sprocket the whole casing is pulled towards the bottom bracket guide. All because there is no stopper on the bottom of chainstay that will lock the cable and the c-shape clip isnt locking it ether.
My only and basically last idea (after this I think I get new frame) is that instead of outer end cap Ill use the second plastic cap with tongue that the cable will enter the casing from the bb guide. And I will try to secure it with zip tie instead. This cap has a ring at the end that could rest on the zip tie and hopefully stay in one place when shifting.
I did click the shifter all way to the smallest chainring and tightened the adjustment barrel before securing the cable in the derailleur. I also adjusted the limit screws but the casing mived while shifting.
Sorry for long description but I have no computer and Im only using iphone so cant post a picture.
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Comments
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post pics as your discripton is not clear.
how is the outer held at the end?"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
The last idea didnt work either so will try to dig old cables out of the bin and see maybe there was sone special cap there...0
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I think I understand what you are saying......
Normally a cable goes under the BB exposed, can you not rmove the under BB guide and have the outer running from the bottom of the DT to the rear mech, the inner cable acts against the outer, it doesn't need to be rigidly in the frame, but it does need to be secure at it's ends.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
TBH it just sounds like it is not fitted correctly with the correct parts.
hence the question."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
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The cable end stop needs to be secure, the under BB cable guide is designed for an inner only, run the outer from the stopper at the bottom of the downtube where you have the silly sleeve to the rear mech, cable tie to the under BB guide bolt or find a suitable clip.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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Ok so I flipped that bb plastic guide around and fed the casing under bb and into that "silly sleeve". The casing feels quite stiff around bb but I will secure it with zip tie as shown on the photo where I used that c-shaped clip for the time being.
http://imgsrc.ru/velomelo/32884605.html
Also if you check the previous photos is the casing loop at the derailleur too long or just about right ?0 -
A bit long, but that is always better than too short!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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and get rid of the guide it is not need all it might be doing now is pushing the outer away from its natural line which can cause more issues."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
But what about the front mech and its cable?0
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So the front mech is bottom pull?
then you might need to trim the guide a little. what came on the frame?"Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0
