Road bikes with discs
Comments
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I have enough stopping power ;-). I don't see the need for anymore on the road, my brakes work well with control.0
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supersonic wrote:I have enough stopping power ;-). I don't see the need for anymore on the road, my brakes work well with control.
Obviously not going fast enough thenROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
meanredspider wrote:I do find it really difficult to understand why people don't find discs better - for me, there's a clear difference. I would genuinely like to understand why that is.
Look at it another way: A disc brake operates by pushing pads onto either side of a rotating metal disc; the bigger the disc, the more effective the brake. A caliper brake does exactly the same thing, except that the disc is ~70cm diameter and happens to have a tyre attached to it. The basic principle of operation is the same. Different configurations have different advantages and disadvantage, it's horses for courses. Most times I race on the road, I never even touch the brakes. What advantages will a heavier and less aerodynamic disc setup give me there?Pannier, 120rpm.0 -
TGOTB wrote:meanredspider wrote:I do find it really difficult to understand why people don't find discs better - for me, there's a clear difference. I would genuinely like to understand why that is.
Look at it another way: A disc brake operates by pushing pads onto either side of a rotating metal disc; the bigger the disc, the more effective the brake. A caliper brake does exactly the same thing, except that the disc is ~70cm diameter and happens to have a tyre attached to it. The basic principle of operation is the same. Different configurations have different advantages and disadvantage, it's horses for courses. Most times I race on the road, I never even touch the brakes. What advantages will a heavier and less aerodynamic disc setup give me there?
None, you are right... discs are not for racing and nobody wins UCI cyclocross races with discs... I suspect they will never make it into the PRO tour, but for the average cycling enthusiast they are the best thing out there. Reliability, stopping power and the fact that expensive rims last forever make them far superior to any other solution in a non competitive environment.
Problem is we all feel we need the lightest, fastest equipment, when really... we don'tleft the forum March 20230 -
TGOTB wrote:meanredspider wrote:What advantages will a heavier and less aerodynamic disc setup give me there?
In the wet, however, its a different ball game. Rim brakes are cr@p in the wet, relying on several sweeps of the rim to enable effective braking. Either that or you have to constantly trail brake to keep them dry. I think everyone can identify with that heart-in-mouth feeling when you're heading towards something big and solid, frantically grabbing at your brakes harder and harder with nothing happening for an agonising second or 2. You simply don't get that with disc brakes.
And the weight and heat arguments might be valid if you're regularly racing up and down alpine mountains but in the UK are you really going to hit the performance limits of 160mm discs on the road? Or suffer massively up Box Hill from carrying a few 100g's more?FCN3: Titanium Qoroz.0 -
"Look at it another way: A disc brake operates by pushing pads onto either side of a rotating metal disc; the bigger the disc, the more effective the brake. A caliper brake does exactly the same thing, except that the disc is ~70cm diameter and happens to have a tyre attached to it. The basic principle of operation is the same. Different configurations have different advantages and disadvantage, it's horses for courses. Most times I race on the road, I never even touch the brakes. What advantages will a heavier and less aerodynamic disc setup give me there?"
I think that would be looking at it the WRONG way!
First up, I don't think there is a strong case for disc brakes on a road racing bike. I think there is a big case on a commuter or winter trainer. A lot of that is about not grinding your rims away but also because the braking performance is a bit better. Obviously that is more pronounced offroad when you smear your rims with a grinding paste.
But on your logic on the mechanics, the big advantage of disc brakes is that the disc can be very true - flat and accurate. A rim is never going to be as true because of the greater diameter and the construction (spokes!). This means you can adjust a disc brake so that the pads sit much closer to the braking surface than with rim brakes which means that the pressure you can apply to the disc is huge (mechanical advantage from relatively big finger movement to tiny pad movement) and this means you can grip the disc hard - this more than compensates for the diameter of the contact point. Because the disc is much smaller diameter you can afford to make it thicker and stronger without a eright penalty. Then of course you can redesign your rims to be purely focused on retaining the bead rather than being compromised with two purposes (i.e. weight penalty).0 -
Wrath Rob wrote:TGOTB wrote:meanredspider wrote:What advantages will a heavier and less aerodynamic disc setup give me there?
In the wet, however, its a different ball game. Rim brakes are cr@p in the wet, relying on several sweeps of the rim to enable effective braking. Either that or you have to constantly trail brake to keep them dry. I think everyone can identify with that heart-in-mouth feeling when you're heading towards something big and solid, frantically grabbing at your brakes harder and harder with nothing happening for an agonising second or 2. You simply don't get that with disc brakes.
And the weight and heat arguments might be valid if you're regularly racing up and down alpine mountains but in the UK are you really going to hit the performance limits of 160mm discs on the road? Or suffer massively up Box Hill from carrying a few 100g's more?
Crit racing is somewhere I can see disc brakes might be an advantage. I'm a big fan of discs for 'cross, but as Ugo pointed out the top guys aren't using them. My point was that it's horses for courses.Pannier, 120rpm.0 -
TGOTB wrote:meanredspider wrote:I do find it really difficult to understand why people don't find discs better - for me, there's a clear difference. I would genuinely like to understand why that is.
Look at it another way: A disc brake operates by pushing pads onto either side of a rotating metal disc; the bigger the disc, the more effective the brake. A caliper brake does exactly the same thing, except that the disc is ~70cm diameter and happens to have a tyre attached to it. The basic principle of operation is the same. Different configurations have different advantages and disadvantage, it's horses for courses. Most times I race on the road, I never even touch the brakes. What advantages will a heavier and less aerodynamic disc setup give me there?
Not saying they should be used for every single application - for many of the TT races I've seen around Cambridge I can't imagine why you'd want them. But we're talking about road bikes on a commuting forum. But, beyond that, I think I'm reading that people actually don't think disc brakes are better for stopping - that's the bit I don't understand: my experience is that they emphatically are.
And, yes, the calliper brake does broadly the same thing - just with a load of compromises thrown in:
- the braking surfaces are a compromise - one made of a material that you'd want to make a wheel of and the other a material that doesn't wear the first material too badly whilst still providing friction in a predictable and progressive manner.
- the stiffness of the system: the wall of a wheel and callipers that have to reach around a rubber tyre with squishy rubber blocks
- the diameter of the "disc" needs to be the diameter of the wheel whether that makes sense or not (almost no road vehicle has the same sized discs front and rear). And no opportunity to tune for the weight of the rider.
- the position of the disc exposed to all the water and dirt the road has to offer
- adding weight in the braking track precisely where you'd rather not have it
Basically engineering compromise after compromise. And that's fine if you don't brake much.ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
My rim brakes work fine in the wet - the wheels lock up far before I run out of brakes.
I look forward to all the tech quetions when people get hydro disc brakes for their road bikes ;-). No bite adjustment (unless you usually pay more for it), bleeding problems, rubbing, squealing, leaking, sticking pistons etc. Just look in the MTB tech section, some disc brakes with some people cause no end of problems. Don't expect them to be infallible, they ain't.0 -
jedster wrote:But on your logic on the mechanics, the big advantage of disc brakes is that the disc can be very true - flat and accurate. A rim is never going to be as true because of the greater diameter and the construction (spokes!). This means you can adjust a disc brake so that the pads sit much closer to the braking surface than with rim brakes which means that the pressure you can apply to the disc is huge (mechanical advantage from relatively big finger movement to tiny pad movement) and this means you can grip the disc hard - this more than compensates for the diameter of the contact point. Because the disc is much smaller diameter you can afford to make it thicker and stronger without a eright penalty. Then of course you can redesign your rims to be purely focused on retaining the bead rather than being compromised with two purposes (i.e. weight penalty).
In any case, my argument was never that discs don't have superior stopping power/control; my point is that in some scenarios the stopping power and control of calipers are perfectly good enough, and other factors make them a better compromise than a discs. I was questioning MRS's assertion that discs are always better.Pannier, 120rpm.0 -
supersonic wrote:My rim brakes work fine in the wet - the wheels lock up far before I run out of brakes.
What does that tell you about your brakes? Locking a wheel has nothing to do with good brakes. You can lock a wheel by poking a stick through the spokes. I could lock the wheels on my 1976 Ford Fiesta. Locking a wheel tells you absolutely nothing about anything.ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
Ultimate stopping power is provided by grip of the tyres. I have good tyres. I can lock the bike up with control, as I previously said. So why do I need anything else?
Being able to lock them proves I have enough power, and in reserve. Therefore discs are of no use to me, even if they are more 'powerful' - the ultimate level of decelleration is the same.0 -
TGOTB wrote:I was questioning MRS's assertion that discs are always better.
That's not an accurate description of my assertion. My assertion is that disc brakes work better. If you don't need brakes, that's hardly of interest. Deaf people don't normally worry about having a great stereo.ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
meanredspider wrote:TGOTB wrote:I was questioning MRS's assertion that discs are always better.
That's not an accurate description of my assertion. My assertion is that disc brakes work better. If you don't need brakes, that's hardly of interest. Deaf people don't normally worry about having a great stereo.
What you actually said was:meanredspider wrote:I do find it really difficult to understand why people don't find discs better - for me, there's a clear difference. I would genuinely like to understand why that is.Pannier, 120rpm.0 -
supersonic wrote:Ultimate stopping power is provided by grip of the tyres. I have good tyres. I can lock the bike up with control, as I previously said. So why do I need anything else?
Being able to lock them proves I have enough power, and in reserve. Therefore discs are of no use to me, even if they are more 'powerful' - the ultimate level of decelleration is the same.
I'm sorry - that's just not accurate on so many levels. The closest bit is that the tyre might be what determines the stopping power or it might be you going over the handlebars. What really determines your stopping distance though is your ability to brake on the threshold of one or other of these events - constantly maximising the retardation without the tyre locking (but slipping slightly) or you doing a face plant. And this is where rim brakes are poor for all the reasons I listed as compromises.ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
You seem to have just said what I have said! The more grip you have, the harder you can brake. Then I mentioned the control bit - which I have ample of. I can brake right on the limits of traction, in all conditions.
So why do I need anything else? A disc brake WILL NOT alter this for me.0 -
TGOTB wrote:meanredspider wrote:TGOTB wrote:I was questioning MRS's assertion that discs are always better.
That's not an accurate description of my assertion. My assertion is that disc brakes work better. If you don't need brakes, that's hardly of interest. Deaf people don't normally worry about having a great stereo.
What you actually said was:meanredspider wrote:I do find it really difficult to understand why people don't find discs better - for me, there's a clear difference. I would genuinely like to understand why that is.
Fair cop - I wasn't very precise
I'd imagine (but I don't know - this is a commuting forum, in my defence) that weight isn't much of an issue for TT (within the bounds we're talking here). I don't think we really know that they are less aero (the wind tunnel test was rubbish) though it's a fair bet that they probably aren't as good.ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
supersonic wrote:You seem to have just said what I have said! The more grip you have, the harder you can brake. Then I mentioned the control bit - which I have ample of. I can brake right on the limits of traction, in all conditions.
So why do I need anything else? A disc brake WILL NOT alter this for me.
Well all I can think is that you're superhuman as well as supersonic. You're right - disc brakes are wasted on youROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
I do have pretty expensive rim brakes mind ;-). And I love them!0
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meanredspider wrote:I'd imagine (but I don't know - this is a commuting forum, in my defence) that weight isn't much of an issue for TT (within the bounds we're talking here). I don't think we really know that they are less aero (the wind tunnel test was rubbish) though it's a fair bet that they probably aren't as good.
That test really was a load of rubbish. Aside from the fact that they didn't involve a rider, what's the relevance of comparing it with a TT setup anyway? They could at least have compared it with a standard road caliper configuration...Pannier, 120rpm.0 -
Yes - I'd be the last to suggest putting discs on a TT bike even if I do come across as a disc evangelist. My excuse is that I'm a mechanical engineer and a car racer and I've done a huge amount of reading on brakes and braking. Having run discs on a CX commuter, I'm obviously running them on a road commuter and I've never once looked back. My racing snake colleague refers to me as "Bomber" for my descending - nearly all of which comes from confidence on the brakes.ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0
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They'll be putting suspension forks on next ;-)0
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supersonic wrote:They'll be putting suspension forks on next ;-)
Funny - I was just thinking that. Don't worry, I won't ever be arguing for that
As it is, I want to get around to taking them off my winter MTB!ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0 -
meanredspider wrote:Yes - I'd be the last to suggest putting discs on a TT bike even if I do come across as a disc evangelist. My excuse is that I'm a mechanical engineer and a car racer and I've done a huge amount of reading on brakes and braking. Having run discs on a CX commuter, I'm obviously running them on a road commuter and I've never once looked back. My racing snake colleague refers to me as "Bomber" for my descending - nearly all of which comes from confidence on the brakes.
My mate won't cycle behind me in wet weather nowadays. Not because he's concerned about getting wet, as I have full 'guards on the bike; but because he just goes sailing past whenever I put the brakes on. He's grabbing handfuls and not stopping and I'm trying not to lock up.Chunky Cyclists need your love too! :-)
2009 Specialized Tricross Sport
2011 Trek Madone 4.5
2012 Felt F65X
Proud CX Pervert and quiet roadie. 12 mile commuter0 -
What a timely thread. Just yesterday I was thinking about reviving my steel framed road bike (set up as a fixie) and changing the fork to a disc equipped one.
My current commuter's (geared aluminium road bike) wheels are showing signs of wear and a heart-in-mouth moment a while ago made me seriously rethink my braking options.
The way I see it, for a commuting bike which gets ridden high mileages in all weathers and carrying relatively heavy loads, disc brakes make perfect sense.
Increased breaking ability: check
Braking ability in all conditions: check
Reduced wear on expensive components: check
Less fettling to keep everything working at 100%: so I've been told
Of course, as it will be used on a fixie, I'll only have a front brake. That should nicely wind a few people up.
My ideal commuter/work bike setup is:
Steel framed fixie
Bull horn bars
Front disc brake, no back brake
Dual sided platform/SPD pedals
Panniers
I'm still undecided about a dynamo rear hub. As a London rider I don't need huge amounts of lighting so battery drain isn't a big enough problem to insist on a dynamo hub and the extra wiring that goes with it.
Mud guards are not a major issue, but I can see, and have expeienced, the advantages.
As DDD says, discuss.FCN 3: Raleigh Record Ace fixie-to be resurrected sometime in the future
FCN 4: Planet X Schmaffenschmack 2- workhorse
FCN 9: B Twin Vitamin - winter commuter/loan bike for trainees
I'm hungry. I'm always hungry!0 -
EKE_38BPM wrote:What a timely thread.
Indeed.
I'm currently selling a load of gear, including a bike, to finance and make room for a steel single speed disc braked commute, guards and all.
For winter though, mine will have fat tyres and hydraulic discs.Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
Sun - Cervelo R3
Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX0 -
Sounds fine to me. A back brake on a bike ( especially one with discs) is mostly there as a spare. Hard braking only lightens the load on the back to a point that it can't brake anyway. I almost never use my rear brake except for rolling up to the office car park barrier when I'm fishing for my pass with my right hand.ROAD < Scott Foil HMX Di2, Volagi Liscio Di2, Jamis Renegade Elite Di2, Cube Reaction Race > ROUGH0
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Haven't we missed something here, with rim brakes you can't safely brake under heavy cornering due to judder and the lateral forces deforming the wheel making braking uneven and prone to locking the rear wheel, with disc brakes the rotor doesn't deform while cornering like a rim does allowing the rider to brake through the corner rather than before the corner thus allowing higher cornering speed and the option of adjusting the line through the corner with less risk of locking the wheel. Hence MRS' confidence on descents.I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.0
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This and the 'gravel bike' (sigh) feature on the home page seem to point to the same thing.
For TT bikes, and out-and-out race bikes, disc brakes are unnecessary, possibly an aero/weight disadvantage and maybe a hazard. But a lot of people don't need those things, and as things are they're underserved.
Walk into a ferrari dealership and you can't buy a race car, you buy a racing-style car with everyday practical touches. You can even, I believe, currently buy a ferrari with 4wd and a hatchback (the FF?). Same with porsche. Where's the bike with all the race tech you'd want, but a nod to everyday practicality? No, not a 'sportive bike' with the same lack of guards, miniscule tire clearance, but slightly longer headtube. Not the touring bike made of steel (lovely as steel may be) weighing 12 kilos. Not the cyclocross bike with a slack headtube, high bb and still no guards.
Where's a general purpose road bike, with carbon loveliness, near enough racing geometry, but practical nods like guard mounts, bigger tire clearance and brakes that don't eat rims or suck in poor conditions?0 -
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