no point spec'ing out my bike ever.
Anonymous
Posts: 79,667
jus looking at new parts jus noticed how very expensive they are and then how cheap my bike was some of the parts especially forks are like 3x/4x times more then I payed for my entire bike I don't think they will make the value 4x times higher either. so I decided I am going jus ride this bike into the ground and jus carry on doing the maintenance until it gets to a stage where expensive bits needs replacing then jus buy another bike. and either trade the other one in or sell it cheap.
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And if you wait while you're riding the old one into the ground, you can pick up the parts for the new one while you're waiting. I've been buying my next bike for the last year and haven't paid full price for more than one or two bits (the grips and the headset, control cables and chain, as I recall)Specialized Roubaix Elite 2015
XM-057 rigid 29er0 -
andrewgrundill wrote:forks are like 3x/4x times more then I payed for my entire bike I don't think they will make the value 4x times higher either
no it wont - putting a £250 fork on will not increase the bikes value by £250 - if that were the case my 2006 Rockhopper would be worth about £1,200 !!Giraffoto wrote:I've been buying my next bike for the last year and haven't paid full price for more than one or two bits
+1
Also been buying my next bike for a year now. Keep my eyes peeled and when a bargain pops up, grab it!
(gutted I missed the KS droppers from Superstar for £120 but still hadn't decided on the frame so would've been a gamble)
Saying that - of course it still could (and probably would) be cheaper to buy a fully built bike from the outset with some of the deals around on sites like Paul's Cycles (and others) but 1/ you don't get the exact spec you want, 2/ you'd have to pay for it all in one go (unless you like getting things on credit which I don't)...and 3/ where's the fun it that"Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 80 -
but with some intelligent purchases you can put together a nice bike for a decent price. my cove stiffee with rock shox sektors, full slx group set and superstar wheels set me back about £5500
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welshkev wrote:intelligent
There's your problem0 -
andrewgrundill wrote:... forks are like 3x/4x times more then I payed for my entire bike I don't think they will make the value 4x times higher either....
I don't buy components to make my bike more valuable. I buy them to get better performance. Whether that's better handling, lower weight or different features etc but never to increase the value of my bike.
Also are you looking at RRP prices? as already said if you wait a bit and shop around you can usually find things for much cheaper than RRP.
But unless you get particularly good bargains buying a full bike is usually cheaper than building it your self especially if you buy from one of the bigger brands or one of the self distributed brands.0 -
If you're looking at top end stuff, remember that Deore - SLX offers exceptional performance for your money.0
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bluechair84 wrote:If you're looking at top end stuff, remember that Deore - SLX offers exceptional performance for your money.
this. I've been running it for years and it's been great and when I bent my rear mech all out of shape it was only £35 to replace0 -
having fun on this one atm. but I definitely used some better wheels and forks. im riding mostly trails and a few light jumps . but my wheels which came on bike where pretty cheap and are getting a bit buckled. considering the entire bike was only £145.my current forks are suntour XCT V3's with mech lockout 100mm travel which are doing fine so far but the lockout mechanism is going and they come unlock on there own some time.
I've never fitted a new wheel yet alone new forks.
I have shimano lock disc's I think (theres no bolts ) which I can see
wheels no idea there not gr8 thou0 -
If your wheels are buckled and you're doing 'light jumps,' might be wise to sort them before you lose your face.0
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why do you really need to use your lock out on the forks though? I only used to use mine if I was doing a lot of road riding: i.e commuting to work.
what bike is it? i'm guessing a GT avalanche0 -
welshkev wrote:why do you really need to use your lock out on the forks though? I only used to use mine if I was doing a lot of road riding: i.e commuting to work.what bike is it? i'm guessing a GT avalanche
its was built buy a car company as a prize I think who knows.
I don't cycle to work no where much to leave the bike securely. I see your point i'd might as jus leave them unlocked. I only lock them when cycling to forest's and such only bout 5 mile or so. bout 3 mile or so down a road 2 mile thou a village
ill find a picture. behold PEUGEOT URBANITE 3.0 mountain bike
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if it does what you want apart from wheel and forks then just replace them cheaply. brand new set of superstar wheels is only £130. new rock shox recon silver tk's, about £115?
or buy second hand0 -
welshkev wrote:if it does what you want apart from wheel and forks then just replace them cheaply. brand new set of superstar wheels is only £130. new rock shox recon silver tk's, about £115?
or buy second hand
£245
another £60 and I can have a new rock rider LOL. I think im going to possibly look for some cheap wheels while thinking about maybe saving up for a full sus which will handle better0 -
andrewgrundill wrote:welshkev wrote:if it does what you want apart from wheel and forks then just replace them cheaply. brand new set of superstar wheels is only £130. new rock shox recon silver tk's, about £115?
or buy second hand
£245
another £60 and I can have a new rock rider LOL. I think im going to possibly look for some cheap wheels while thinking about maybe saving up for a full sus which will handle better
but then you'd be paying out £300 for a bike you'd have to upgrade again in a years time as it's a budget entry level bike. the parts I stated will last you a lot longer, be stronger and perform better0 -
I see your logic. thanks
ill probably keep an eye out for cheaper parts on here.
skint this payday.
probably start looking next month
probably gonna save towards a full suspension bike as well.0 -
Mmm... a mountain bike with the word 'Urban' in it's name... Good thinking Peugeot.0
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bluechair84 wrote:Mmm... a mountain bike with the word 'Urban' in it's name... Good thinking Peugeot.
quite a few company's are like that thou if you think0 -
May I refer you to this thread? So full of fail here it is literally stupid. Interesting read. Everything we tried to tell you is now coming back at you
viewtopic.php?f=20005&t=12914056&hilit=Recreational0 -
I didn't realise that thread had gone on :roll:0
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can we not delete this and put it down to me being a noob.
im getting the hang on this mtb shit. so far I understand you buy a bike a semi decent then spent money upgrading up.
I think then you go out and enjoy to the next upgrade comes out then upgrade and repeat.0 -
Or just buy a bike that suits and do little upgrading. There is no one way to do it. But the worst thing to do is buy a bag of spanners then upgrade nearly all the parts.0
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supersonic wrote:Or just buy a bike that suits and do little upgrading. There is no one way to do it. But the worst thing to do is buy a bag of spanners then upgrade nearly all the parts.
I love my bike buts its not worth much I payed £142 on ebay for it but for a bit tougher off roading its needs upgrades new forks/wheels etc. but I don't wanna buy another because that's jus wastefull. I wanna try some more challenging stuff instead of sticking to jus red routes at places I wanna go for the black routes and not have to worry if the bike will survive to the end. also don't want to guilty of spec'ing out something worthless either.
if sure there a thread about a guy who spent £600 on a Apollo something or other and he got laugh at a lot
I know it seems stupid.
without putting to finer point on this is my bike a bag of spanners. should I jus ride it into the ground and invest in something better.?
wow I was a arse back then I jus looked sorry for that.0 -
before this decents into a mess.
sorry for being a arse in the last that post you mentioned.0 -
andrewgrundill wrote:there not entirely buckled they jus aint entirely straight no more they don't catch or anything.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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andrewgrundill wrote:without putting to finer point on this is my bike a bag of spanners. should I jus ride it into the ground and invest in something better.?andrewgrundill wrote:wow I was a ars* back then I jus looked sorry for that.Specialized Roubaix Elite 2015
XM-057 rigid 29er0 -
andrewgrundill wrote:
should I jus ride it into the ground and invest in something better.?
You should have invested in something better in the first place when we told you. The £300 RR frinstance.
It was "only" £140 more than yours which will turn into a bag of spanners and it not really worth upgrading.
You mentioned the guy who bought the Apollo and upgraded that and got ribbed. Yes for the frame being useless. What you need to understand is a bike is built around a frame, that frame does not need to be amazing, just of a good enough standard with the relevant fitments to take modern equiptment.0 -
ok ive decided im gonna use my current bike for this month then maybe look into to saving for something with full suspension yes I know I should of taken your advice in the first place but I dindnt think cos I was a noob lesson learnt.0
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Get FS out of your mind. You need to spend at least £800 to make it worth it.0
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andrewgrundill wrote:ok ive decided im gonna use my current bike for this month then maybe look into to saving for something with full suspension yes I know I should have taken your advice in the first place but I dindnt think cos I was a noob lesson learnt.
If you buy a cheap FS you'll just be in the same posistion with a full sus.0