M445 vs M696 Brakes
john2002
Posts: 158
my problem
I currently have shimano m445 disk brakes on my bikes that came as standard. for some time now they have been making noises at times (not when applying the brake) I notice that one piston was not coming out as much as the other, so I managed to pump it out clean it etc and it was fine for about a hour then the noise started again, so I tried to pulled the piston out again to give a good clean but the piston popped all the way out so I went to my lbs to get some brake fluid. they gave me dot 4, I didn't realise in to after that I had used the dot 4 it that I should of used mineral oil.. :oops: (also the brake fluid went everywhere when I was trying to bleed them) and now they make a terrible sounds when using the brakes.
so now the questions
1. should I just buy new brakes [as they come with new seals and pads pre bleed etc] or try and service the brakes? I'm guessing that I must of destroyed the seals and pads with the dot 4 and also the cost of the oil, pads and seals(if you can get them?) may cost more than just buy a new brake that is already set up?
2. or if I buy new brakes should I buy m445 replacement or should I upgrade to m596 deores as I hear good review for these or the brakes supersonic posted about yesterday m395..
3. should I get new disk also? (with pack deals it normal only little extra to get the disk)
m445 £55 for front and back http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2012-Shimano- ... 2ebc75bb1a
m596 £83 for front and back http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-2012-Shim ... 3378186325
m395 £56 for front and back +P&P http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190851179624? ... 42&afsrc=1
Thank you for your help and sorry for my stupidity
I currently have shimano m445 disk brakes on my bikes that came as standard. for some time now they have been making noises at times (not when applying the brake) I notice that one piston was not coming out as much as the other, so I managed to pump it out clean it etc and it was fine for about a hour then the noise started again, so I tried to pulled the piston out again to give a good clean but the piston popped all the way out so I went to my lbs to get some brake fluid. they gave me dot 4, I didn't realise in to after that I had used the dot 4 it that I should of used mineral oil.. :oops: (also the brake fluid went everywhere when I was trying to bleed them) and now they make a terrible sounds when using the brakes.
so now the questions
1. should I just buy new brakes [as they come with new seals and pads pre bleed etc] or try and service the brakes? I'm guessing that I must of destroyed the seals and pads with the dot 4 and also the cost of the oil, pads and seals(if you can get them?) may cost more than just buy a new brake that is already set up?
2. or if I buy new brakes should I buy m445 replacement or should I upgrade to m596 deores as I hear good review for these or the brakes supersonic posted about yesterday m395..
3. should I get new disk also? (with pack deals it normal only little extra to get the disk)
m445 £55 for front and back http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2012-Shimano- ... 2ebc75bb1a
m596 £83 for front and back http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-2012-Shim ... 3378186325
m395 £56 for front and back +P&P http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190851179624? ... 42&afsrc=1
Thank you for your help and sorry for my stupidity
GT Avalanche 1.0 Disc 2011, Fixie, frankenbike
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Comments
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Your existing brakes are dead, need new seals throughout.
Deore gets servo wave which helps the pads clear the rotor then progressively increases power.
You can use the existing rotors.0 -
New brakes IMO - M596's can be had cheaper on the german websites. You'll have wrecked the seals/hoses and what sounds like the pads - but the new shimano deores will be a brilliant upgrade! Just make sure you clean your rotors in case you spilt any fluid on them!0
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Hang on. Did you tell the LBS you had Shimano brakes and they gave you dot4? Your brakes are now fubar as a result. I'd go back to them and have a few words. Do'nt get nasty or stroppy just explain what has happened and ask what thy can do to help remedy the situation. If you don't like what you hear ask to speak to the manager and explain again. They should give you a pretty major discount at least. Check what you can buy for online and make sure they do better.
If you asked for dot4 or didn't tell them what brakes you had feel free to ignore me.0 -
thanks for the quick replies. I just asked my lbs for brake fluid. I've bleed motorbike and car brakes before so didn't think anything of the dot4 when he gave me it. I'm living in Greece and don't speak Greek(so many communication problem for me here), my fault I should of checked what was need before I tried to service the brakes as I normally do but I was in a rush. anyway I will go ahead and buy the deore M596 only need the front brake(but might get the set) I've seen them on crc & wiggle for £43 also need to include postage to Greece. I need to buy some other bits so might be able to get free P&P.. anywhere else I can get them cheap and in stock? set or just front. bike-discounts have the front for £39+8 for p&p also most place seem to be out of stock/discontinued for the rear brake, anyone know why? are they bring out a newer model?
Thank you for your helpGT Avalanche 1.0 Disc 2011, Fixie, frankenbike0 -
john2002 wrote:thanks for the quick replies. I just asked my lbs for brake fluid. I've bleed motorbike and car brakes before so didn't think anything of the dot4 when he gave me it. I'm living in Greece and don't speak Greek(so many communication problem for me here), my fault I should have checked what was need before I tried to service the brakes as I normally do but I was in a rush. anyway I will go ahead and buy the deore M596 only need the front brake(but might get the set) I've seen them on crc & wiggle for £43 also need to include postage to Greece. I need to buy some other bits so might be able to get free P&P.. anywhere else I can get them cheap and in stock? set or just front. bike-discounts have the front for £39+8 for p&p also most place seem to be out of stock/discontinued for the rear brake, anyone know why? are they bring out a newer model?
Thank you for your help
Just be aware that they are not flip flop and are side specific. If you buy from the Germans you will get the euro side. That may be ok for you. Anyhow, if you buy both front and back and intend to cut and shorten the hoses, you can swap them over when doing that. Silly me bought from CRC recently to get the right (correct) side then I promptly cut the hoses to shorten them. No big deal but I could have had them a fair bit cheaper from Bike Components dot de ad did the side swap when I made the cut.
Awesome brakes by the way. I doubt you will be disappointed.0 -
didn't realise that the euro bike had the brakes on the opposite side, mines a uk spec bike so I just ordered the front brake for my bike from crcGT Avalanche 1.0 Disc 2011, Fixie, frankenbike0
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john2002 wrote:didn't realise that the euro bike had the brakes on the opposite side, mines a uk spec bike so I just ordered the front brake for my bike from crc
Yep, the euro guys match the derailleurs to the brakes, i.e. front brake and derailleur on the left side. The Brits (and us Aussies) do it right and put the front on the right. Being someone who also rides motorized bikes, I like my front brake on the same side on both machines!0 -
raldat wrote:Being someone who also rides motorized bikes, I like my front brake on the same side on both machines!
Me too - it wouldn't be long before a painful accident with the levers the wrong way round.0 -
It's not to do with matching the derailleurs and brakes - it's to do with which hand remains on the brake when indicating to turn across the traffic. The best hand for this will depend on whether you're riding on the left (Uk & Aus) or the right (most other places)
The idea is that the braking hand is on the rear brake, as this is less difficult to brake and steer with one hand.
Never worry about buying a pair of brakes in 'Euro' configuration, as you almost always have to shorten the hoses, so can swap them over at the same time.
+1 for the M596 brakes - fantastic value for money (Buy the bleed funnel at the same time)
If you didn't learn anything today, you weren't paying attention!0 -
belugabob wrote:The idea is that the braking hand is on the rear brake, as this is less difficult to brake and steer with one hand.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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the brake finally arrived yesterday fitted today looks good but needs bleeding. I'm guessing they wasn't fully bleed as advertised.. they will do the job for now into I get some mineral oil and bleed kit..
Thank you all for your help.GT Avalanche 1.0 Disc 2011, Fixie, frankenbike0 -
The Beginner wrote:plus for weight weenies it's a weight saving on the front brake cable/hose!).
ha! was seeing if you'd admit the real reason!"Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes
Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build
Trek Session 80 -
Ha ha...for cable brakes that length difference is over 10g (and less cable outer so cheaper!) (And just to answer the point my cable brakes are lighter than the XT on my MTB despite cables usually being heavier!)
What makes you think they need Bleeding, they may not have bedded/settled in yet, both make lever travel longer.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
spongy feel and the leaver moves to far back.GT Avalanche 1.0 Disc 2011, Fixie, frankenbike0