Chain Oil
hodgyoh7
Posts: 14
Hi all,
This will have been answered a million times before but here goes.
What is the best chain oil/lube to use?
Thanks
This will have been answered a million times before but here goes.
What is the best chain oil/lube to use?
Thanks
0
Comments
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I asked the same question on another forum a while ago, and many people swore by normal engine oil which is what I used to put on my MTB chain. Not overly convinced by that advice though - muck and dust tends to stick to it quite quickly so requires a lot of cleaning and re-oiling. I use Tectane CS380 Chain Spray now though - can't say whether its better or worse than others, but seems to do the trick for me."I look pretty young, but I'm just back-dated"0
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search function is top right if you know its been asked a million times before, the technology hasn't drastically moved on0
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There isn't a 'best'. There are a few good choices. It's only oil; it actually doesn't matter that much.
Certainly I would dissuade anyone from using automotive oil (which is likely to be far too viscous and sticky: it will pick up dirt and be a pain to get off) or GT85 or similar (not viscous at all). There are two basic options: 'wet' and 'dry' (wax-based, which I haven't used). Both are viable options; it comes down to preference more than anything else. Using a heavy MTB-worthy oil might seem less-than-ideal on a road bike from the dirt-attracting point-of-view, but in practice if you apply sparingly and wipe excess, and clean your transmission thoroughly and regularly, it shouldn't cause major issues.
Personally, I use Green Oil products exclusively, and I choose their wet lube. I use it all year round. It's fantastic, and it's environmentally friendly. I'm happy to recommend Finish Line though: the green 'cross country' lube is available everywhere and is cheap. As said above, as long as you don't slap it on, it works really well. In wet weather, you need to make sure you are cleaning your transmission regularly to remove the muck.0 -
Cheers Fellas,
Forward Loop- Thanks for the comment. Maybe we could meet up and you could explain it more thoroughly.0 -
I use Finish Line wet lube in the winter when the chain is being bombarded constantly with gritty, salty water. It effectively stops rust forming, but it is quite sticky though and picks up a lot of muck. Tried Squirt which is a wax based dry lube in the summer. It does flake off taking the dirt with it, so keeps the chain pretty clean, but I'm not sure it lubricates as well as an oil. Needs frequent reapplication. Now using cheap and cheerful 3-in-1 oil from Wilkos, but applying it sparingly to each roller in turn, spinning the pedals a few times and then making sure I wipe off all the excess.
Prolink Pro Gold is also frequently mentioned in these forums.0 -
There are 3 basic types
Wet Lube - very sticky so stays on the chain when conditions are wet - however will also allow dust/mud etc to stick to the chain which will increase wear
Dry Lube - thin, so will lube the chain very well, but not sticky so will not attract dust/mud like wet lube, however because it is so thin it can wash off if you ride through a particularly deep puddle. Non cyclists will also make "what's the point in a dry lube" jokes too which are oh so hilarious.
Wax lube - the chain is lubricated by a waxy material which is applied in a solvent which then evaporated off. First time it has to be applied to a spotless chain or else it won't stick. When it's on you can (in theory) keep applying more and more and the chain will self clean (IME, the reality is somewhat different)
For 90% of road use i use Dry or Wax lube except in the winter (or if I'm not going to be able to regularly clean the bike, i.e. for communting). For MTBing I choose Dry or Wet depending on conditions. I ve found Finish Line, Shimano and the new fangled, but expensive, Muc off lubes all to be good. The Pedros Road specific lube was my personal favourite for road biking though (need to get some more actually...)We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
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An aging Trek 5500 OCLV
Not so aging Pina Dogma (AK61)0 -
After trying a few I have settled on the park tools chain oil (CL-1). Seams to stay clean - no build up of black gunk on jockey wheels.0
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I don't think the issue is so much WHAT you use but in keeping the chain fairly clean and lubed with something on a regular basis.0
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dennisn wrote:I don't think the issue is so much WHAT you use but in keeping the chain fairly clean and lubed with something on a regular basis.
Can i use vaseline?Winter Road - 2014 Boardman Sport
MTB - 2012 Canyon Nerve XC 7
Summer Road - 2012 Cannondale Supersix 105 Liquigas Colours0 -
hodgyoh7 wrote:Forward Loop- Thanks for the comment. Maybe we could meet up and you could explain it more thoroughly.
fight!
Gotta love the internet.0 -
I met up with the guy that makes Fenwicks Stealth whilst out on a ride once, he swears they've had single applications last 600 miles, even in deepest darkest winter. Apply via a dropper to each link, he says.
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/fenwicks/stealth-road-bike-chain-lube-ec035362
I've bought some and am fairly impressed so far, circa 200 summer miles and going well. Chain still clean and lubed.
Have used Pedros Syn lube before to good effect.2020 Reilly Spectre - raw titanium
2020 Merida Reacto Disc Ltd - black on black
2015 CAAD8 105 - very green - stripped to turbo bike
2018 Planet X Exocet 2 - grey
The departed:
2017 Cervelo R3 DI2 - sold
Boardman CX Team - sold
Cannondale Synapse - broken
Cube Streamer - stolen
Boardman Road Comp - stolen0 -
IC. wrote:I met up with the guy that makes Fenwicks Stealth whilst out on a ride once, he swears they've had single applications last 600 miles, even in deepest darkest winter. Apply via a dropper to each link, he says.
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/fenwicks/stealth-road-bike-chain-lube-ec035362
I've bought some and am fairly impressed so far, circa 200 summer miles and going well. Chain still clean and lubed.
Have used Pedros Syn lube before to good effect.
Exactly how was it determined that it "lasted" 600 miles? If you put milk on a chain it would most likely "last" 600 miles or at least traces of it would still be there.
Were it's lube properties after 600 miles still the same as at the start?
How was this any of this determined? :?0 -
vfast1 wrote:dennisn wrote:I don't think the issue is so much WHAT you use but in keeping the chain fairly clean and lubed with something on a regular basis.
Can i use vaseline?
I'm sure it would work. Seriously, I'm sure it would work.
I know there is a bit of sarcasm in your post but in reality I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't do what is required and that's to lay down a layer of lube between moving metal parts to prevent wear.
Rationalizing that the only stuff that can properly lube a chain is a small, high dollar tube of something labeled for cycling use is pure folly or a weird desire to believe that a bicycle chain is a very hi-tech item.0 -
Poundland chain oil. I give my bike/drivechain a clean every few rides so no need for it to last 600 miles.0
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dennisn wrote:.
Rationalizing that the only stuff that can properly lube a chain is a small, high dollar tube of something labeled for cycling use is pure folly or a weird desire to believe that a bicycle chain is a very hi-tech item.
Despite totally agreeing with you I am still using the expensive Finish Line Ceramic stuff"You really think you can burn off sugar with exercise?" downhill paul0 -
Charlie Potatoes wrote:dennisn wrote:.
Rationalizing that the only stuff that can properly lube a chain is a small, high dollar tube of something labeled for cycling use is pure folly or a weird desire to believe that a bicycle chain is a very hi-tech item.
Despite totally agreeing with you I am still using the expensive Finish Line Ceramic stuff
Don't we all? I use that blue stuff - Rock N' Roll.0 -
Double TT or Cyclo Breakaway - both penetrating oils. Both make excellent cycle chain lubes.0