The simplest fix is the last place you look

bluechair84
bluechair84 Posts: 4,352
edited June 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
My boss has just asked me to have a look at his commuter bike as it was 'really draggy' this morning. Disaster, as he commutes a fair distance on a very busy A road and had a long and difficult journey home ahead of him. 'It wasn't doing this yesterday' he says, 'maybe the frame's bent?'. 'I'll take a look and see' I say. Spin the wheels and the back is rubbing terribly. Boss looks highly concerned, assuring me it was fine only last night, it must be knackered. Look a little closer at the disc caliper and it's rubbing like crazy. So, undo the bolts and realign it - pretty much to no avail. After some fiddling around it turns out he hasn't put the back wheel in properly and it's simply not bolted up straight. Simple fix! Sort of, rear brake was still 'pulsing'; realign the caliper, still no joy. Discover the disc is slightly bent so I suggest it needs replacing. Further investigation however shows it's another extremely simple mistake. The spacing spring on one side of the QR was put on back to front so the fat end overlapped the axle and was lifting the wheel ever-so-slightly on one side. Put that on properly and Bob's of no relaiton to you, all problems solved. A small spring the wrong way around and a wheel not in properly. I couldn't help but chuckle at how two such small errors had rendered the bike for scrap :)

Just a simple story shared as I've loads of work to do and no motivation to do it.

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I take the springs out the rear QR's as they serve no usefull function, even the right way round I've seen them get mangled and create issues.

    Front I keep them in to centralise QR across the Lawyers lips.

    Good story though.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • .blitz
    .blitz Posts: 6,197
    The spacing spring on one side of the QR was put on back to front
    Have done that before :oops:
  • bluechair84
    bluechair84 Posts: 4,352
    It's funny that I've never done this, but also I've never known why they had to be this way around. It's been a sixth sense to have them narrow side in all these years... I now know!
  • EH_Rob
    EH_Rob Posts: 1,134
    I spent half an hour messing with a brake last night before checking if the thru axle was mounted correctly. It wasn't.
  • paulbox
    paulbox Posts: 1,203
    Just a simple story shared as I've loads of work to do and no motivation to do it.
    Strangely, that is exactly the same reason why I read it... :lol:
    XC: Giant Anthem X
    Fun: Yeti SB66
    Road: Litespeed C1, Cannondale Supersix Evo, Cervelo R5
    Trainer: Bianchi via Nirone
    Hack: GT hardtail with Schwalbe City Jets
  • bluechair84
    bluechair84 Posts: 4,352
    :) always glad to help someone procrastinate. Which somehow sounds very different when read aloud...

    In other problems; I discovered the knuckles in his front mech are so worn that it's rattling around, and his cassette lockring isn't done up tight enough so the cassette is wobbling too. I think I'll just take in my whole tool box and spend a day on it instead of doing actual work.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    My retro has a very rattly front mech, still works fine though!

    Cassettte lockring or fubarred freehub bearings?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • bluechair84
    bluechair84 Posts: 4,352
    My retro has a very rattly front mech, still works fine though!

    Cassettte lockring or fubarred freehub bearings?

    Some of the sprockets wobble independently of one another, so I'm pretty sure the lockring will sort them. But, I hadn't considered that. Will be the next check if the lockring tool don't fix it :)