Seat position

Mullet52
Mullet52 Posts: 45
edited June 2013 in Road beginners
I think I need my seat even further forward! When riding, if I sit on the seat properly, on the widest part. I feel like the pedals are too far in front of me. I am finding that the best position, (crank wise) is when I sit on the nose of the seat, but obviously this isn't comfortable for my back side. Below is a pic of my current seat position.

Why do I feel like this? Am I riding the bike wrong or do I need my seat further forward?

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Comments

  • KevChallis
    KevChallis Posts: 646
    edited June 2013
    You need a straighter seat pin then, instead of one with that much angle
    Kev
    PlanetX Pro Carbon
    Voodoo Bizango
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    Your seatpin has quite a bit of set-back. You can get different models with different amounts, all the way to inline seatpins with no setback at all.
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    On Strava.{/url}
  • Mullet52
    Mullet52 Posts: 45
    What if I turn it round so its facing forward, then adjust the seat accordingly
  • imposter2.0
    imposter2.0 Posts: 12,028
    Mullet52 wrote:
    What if I turn it round so its facing forward, then adjust the seat accordingly

    No, just no. Buy a different post with the correct setback.
  • Tom Dean
    Tom Dean Posts: 1,723
    Saddle.
  • styxd
    styxd Posts: 3,234
    I think you are riding the bike wrong. You should adjust the seat to make sure you are balanced on the bike properly. Too far forwards and you'll probably have to much weight on your arms. Try lowering your seat abit.
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    Mullet52 wrote:
    What if I turn it round so its facing forward, then adjust the seat accordingly

    You won't be able to level the saddle.
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    On Strava.{/url}
  • MichaelW
    MichaelW Posts: 2,164
    Saddle fore-aft is determined by the qualdrilateral shape of: upper leg, lower leg, crank (at 3:00) and seat-tube+seatpost
    Between riders, the main variable is the ratio of upper leg to lower leg. If you have a relatively long tibia and short femur (like I do), then the saddle position will work out more forward than normal.

    In the olden days, you could only get one type of seatpost so funny-shaped riders had to have frames custom built with funny seat-tube angles. These days seatposts come in a variety of laybacks so most riders can accommodate their chosen position on stock frames.
    Riding an "inline" seatpost on a roadbike may look wrong to some people but if that is what it takes to fit your body geometry, use one. It wont affect your weight distribution as styxd suggests provided the position is correct for you.

    Note that very big and small frames use seat-tube angles that deviate from "normal" forcing the rider forward or back compared to the medium frames. This is mainly due to the crank part of the quadrilateral shape being fixed in length for all sizes of rider.
  • smidsy
    smidsy Posts: 5,273
    Having an inline seatpost will not adjust his position.

    If you follow the main post up (with the saddle where it is now) it would then clamp the saddle centrally as it should. If he then moved the saddle to push him forwards it would once again be clamped too far back on its rails.

    The problem is either the seat tube angle pushing him too far back over the BB or the effective top tube length meaning he has to stretch too far.

    Get a different frame.
    Yellow is the new Black.
  • Mullet52
    Mullet52 Posts: 45
    I dont believe that the seat has to be clamped in the middle. Thats why it has rails, so it can be adjusted.

    An in-line seat post would probably work for me. Because if I had the seat clamped in the same position as I do now, but with an in-line post, then the seat would be further forward.

    Its not the reach/stretch I'm fussed about. Its my position over the BB that bothers me
  • styxd
    styxd Posts: 3,234
    Try lowering your seat!
  • mitchgixer6
    mitchgixer6 Posts: 729
    smidsy wrote:
    Having an inline seatpost will not adjust his position.

    If you follow the main post up (with the saddle where it is now) it would then clamp the saddle centrally as it should. If he then moved the saddle to push him forwards it would once again be clamped too far back on its rails.

    The problem is either the seat tube angle pushing him too far back over the BB or the effective top tube length meaning he has to stretch too far.

    Get a different frame.

    What a crock of s**t! If you follow the line up from the seat post the saddle would then be clamped too far forward, ie past the markings on the rail. There is no rule to say the saddle has to be clamped in the middle. As long as it's clamped on the flat portion then it shouldn't cause a problem.

    You could actually get away with moving the saddle forward a wee bit more if you took that plastic thing off from the rails. I have a carbon railed saddle that is about the same position as yours and have never had a issue with the saddle rails. I presume Smidsy will come along and tell me my saddle rails will break any day now! :roll:

    As a general rule of thumb for setting up fore-aft of the saddle, sit on the bike and move the cranks so as they are horizontal. The leg that is furthest forward should have your knee cap above the pedal spindle. You could try moving the cleats on your shoes forward too if it helps, but I reckon your best bet is an inline post.
  • smidsy
    smidsy Posts: 5,273
    mitchgixer6 wrote:
    What a crock of s**t! There is no rule to say the saddle has to be clamped in the middle. I presume Smidsy will come along and tell me my saddle rails will break any day now! :roll:

    As a general rule of thumb for setting up fore-aft of the saddle, sit on the bike and move the cranks so as they are horizontal. The leg that is furthest forward should have your knee cap above the pedal spindle. You could try moving the cleats on your shoes forward too if it helps, but I reckon your best bet is an inline post.

    The KOPS rule is also a crock of shit and not a rule. :mrgreen:

    Also the centre of the saddle is not the same as the centre of the rails. I said it would clamp the saddle centrally. I never said it had to be in the centre of the rails as there is clearly room for movement (that is why it has marking s on it).
    Yellow is the new Black.
  • mitchgixer6
    mitchgixer6 Posts: 729
    Pedantic!
    smidsy wrote:
    The KOPS rule is also a crock of shoot and not a rule. :mrgreen:

    Also the centre of the saddle is not the same as the centre of the rails. I said it would clamp the saddle centrally. I never said it had to be in the centre of the rails as there is clearly room for movement (that is why it has marking s on it).

    Maybe you should have mentioned that then and made it a bit clearer? Still doesn't really matter as no matter where the saddle is clamped on the rails it won't affect anything, so why does the saddle have to be clamped centrally?

    I know the KOPS theory is just that, but it's a good place to start and has worked for me.
  • smidsy
    smidsy Posts: 5,273
    I thought I did.

    "If you follow the main post up (with the saddle where it is now) it would then clamp the saddle centrally"

    Anyway the point is that the OP needs to check he has the correct frame for his needs.
    Yellow is the new Black.
  • Sprool
    Sprool Posts: 1,022
    Its not really practical for someone to just go out and change their frame if they feel the saddle position's not right. For a small price its best to try out a seat post with a little less offset and see if it feels more comfortable. Maybe back that up with advice from a trusted LBS or bike fitter before you go and scrap your whole frame.
  • mitchgixer6
    mitchgixer6 Posts: 729
    smidsy wrote:
    I thought I did.

    "If you follow the main post up (with the saddle where it is now) it would then clamp the saddle centrally"

    Anyway the point is that the OP needs to check he has the correct frame for his needs.

    :roll:
  • Druidor
    Druidor Posts: 230
    getting a basic setup it was suggested to level the pedals and put a plumb line down to the front of the pedal to the top tube then mark with tape, when riding knee should be level with this mark adjust saddle accordingly.

    New bike at home waiting in box, when I get back from Japan (darned work) I will set up accordingly & upset the wife by disappearing for a few hours.
    ---
    Sensa Trentino SL Custom 2013 - 105 Compact - Aksium Race
  • shortcuts
    shortcuts Posts: 366
    Not sure if this is going to help but who knows :wink:
    I have only recently started cycling as a form of low impact exercise due to health issues dictating the sort of exercise I can manage comfortably as I get older and the arthritis worse!
    I notice that your bike is a Boardman. After researching I too purchased a Boardman (Hybrid Pro) last August and have been thoroughly enjoying it.
    Now to the point. Whilst talking to a guy in my local Stows in Slough and commenting that whilst generally pleased I was tending to sit too far forward for comfort he mentioned that he felt Boardman made their bikes too long in the frame (?). I booked a 'comfort' fit for £45. Net result was the seat position changed (forward and height) and the stem changed to a shorter one. The difference is quite impressive in terms of comfort and efficiency.
    So it may well be worth your while to consider the same option. Certainly worked for me and is possibly the best £45 + stem I will spend in a long while.
    Good luck.
  • Mindermast
    Mindermast Posts: 124
    You could try to move down the saddle tip a bit. It looks like it is pointing up a bit. Apart from this, follow the usual fitting procedures, pay special attention to the knee position towards the pedal axle.

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