Removing a Chain

ChantelleC
ChantelleC Posts: 48
edited June 2013 in Workshop
Hi,

I have made 2 attempts to remove the chain on both of my bikes as part of a self service. The 1st attempt with one of my chain tools just wasn't pushing the pin out as easy as I thought it was supposed to - So I then stopped in case I damaged the chain. On my other bike and my 2nd attempt of removing a chain with a different chain tool the same thing was happening .. I kept turning until it physically turn it anymore which was a mistake as the links are ruined. Two chain tools and neither of them worked or even budged the pin. Is it something I'm doing wrong or the result of a cheap chain tool?

Thanks
Scott Foil 30
Trek 1.2
Trek Fuel EX5

Comments

  • gezebo
    gezebo Posts: 364
    Maybe a cheap chain tool however you do need a fair amount of force to get the pin to move initially. Obviously you need to make sure that the pin is lined up correctly, also newer, higher speed chains have smaller pins (and corresponding holes) in relation to some old chain splitters which means the pin is to fat to fit!
  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 17,415
    ^^^this

    even slight misaligment of the pin in the tool will make it hard/impossible to remove the pin, and could end up bending/breaking the tool or damaging the chain

    some chains have the heads of the pins mushroomed or riveted, you need to make sure the chain tool is dead centre, otherwise it'll be jamming on the edge of the pin and go nowhere

    put the chain in, tighten just enough to snug the tool pin against the chain pin, look close to ensure they are exactly centered and stay that way as you tighten, just keep carefully tightening the handle, it can take a lot of force, pressure will build until the pin gives

    if you fit a kmc missing link to the existing chains, or simply replace with a kmc chain which comes with the link, it's then very easy to remove/refit chains for cleaning and maintenance
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • As above, as long as you are taking care and using it correctly even a cheap chain tool should have no real problem pushing out the pin.
  • kentphil
    kentphil Posts: 479
    I'm sure some pins are designed to come out and some aren't. Make sure you are pushing through a removeable pin. This applies to shimano chains, not sure about KMC
    1998 Kona Cindercone in singlespeed commute spec
    2013 Cannondale Caadx 1x10
    2004 Giant TCR
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    KentPhil wrote:
    I'm sure some pins are designed to come out and some aren't. Make sure you are pushing through a removeable pin. This applies to shimano chains, not sure about KMC

    I'm going to question where or from whom you heard this. :?
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    If it's a 10 speed chain I have found they require a lot more force to push out a pin than say 8 speed. I bent my cheapo Halfords chain tool handle like a banana first time I had to split my 105 chain. I can see why someone called Chantelle would struggle. Looking carefully at the pin I noticed that removal had shaved off a tiny collar of metal which was then left on the chain tool pin. Presumably this was the remains of the swaged end of the pin. No wonder it took so much effort.

    I use KMC missing links on my chains when I fit them. Still have to shorten them first though.

    Shimano chains joined using one of their snap-off joining pins should not be broken at the same point again. Maybe that's what Kent Phil was meaning?
  • crankycrank
    crankycrank Posts: 1,830
    What chain tools were you using? One with a large handle (such as this http://www.wiggle.co.uk/park-tools-5-to ... hain-tool/ ) will give you much more leverage and be much easier to push out the pin. As mentioned you have to make sure the tool is lined up against the pin perfectly and for your first time you might want to have someone with experience watch you do the removal and give some pointers if needed. And also as mentioned using a KMC reusable link will make life easier when you want to remove and replace the chain.
  • kentphil
    kentphil Posts: 479
    Thats exactly what I was thinking of Keef66
    1998 Kona Cindercone in singlespeed commute spec
    2013 Cannondale Caadx 1x10
    2004 Giant TCR
  • dgunthor
    dgunthor Posts: 644
    there's 2 places to put the chain on the chain tool, one nearest the pin of the tool and one further away, you're using the one further away right? (the near one is to loosen a pin/link not remove one)
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    dgunthor wrote:
    there's 2 places to put the chain on the chain tool, one nearest the pin of the tool and one further away, you're using the one further away right? (the near one is to loosen a pin/link not remove one)

    I absent mindedly did that wrong once; put the chain in the upper slot, gave the handle some welly, and snapped off the upper tabs the chain had been sitting on :oops:
  • dgunthor
    dgunthor Posts: 644
    i think we've all done that keef66