help asap! BB campag

blablablacksheep

Hi all, middle of bearing service, need help.

Taken off drive side, took off non drive side (required lot of force)

But how do I get bearings out of non drive side bb cup?
Screw driver? Or have to take of bb cup?
Cheers

Gazzetta67

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxtg9Bb8LxQ

Try have a look at this might help...Having a problem with mine too spurting out brown stuff 8) - call me old fashioned but i think its knackered

blablablacksheep

Seen that video but do I need to remove cups in order to get bearings out from non drive side? Cheers

Here's a picture of what I'm facing
http://postimg.org/image/wvj5vt69t/

rubbernekker

Bearing SHOULD have come off with the crank axle assembly, but it didn't. Take cup out off frame. Use BB spanner as a cradle, lay the cup onto the spanner threads facing up, crenellations matching teeth on spanner . Lay BB Cup, BB Spanner onto the jaws of a vice, find appropriate sized socket that drops into cup without being too snug but rests on bearing, ensure projected path of bearing is clear. Hit repeatedly with hammer.

blablablacksheep

Spoke to lbs, and showed him picture on phone, he reckons like yourself I'll need top take cup off then prise bearing out.
Still not sure why bearings didn't come away with crank though :-\
Wavy washer also didn't come either.

One issue though, if canyon used locite on cups, how on earth am I going to get them off! Going to be a nightmare getting enough power through bb tool .

rowlers

You can knock it out from drive side using a suitable tool (wooden dowel?) and hammer.
Just done it.... take it easy side to side & top and bottom.
I don't think its supposed to get stuck like this tho...

cycleclinic

There a shop bearing extractors from wheels manufacturing and Race face make a tool to remove 6805 bearings. I have both and the race face tool is by far the best. Expensive though bt a neat bit of kit.

gfk_velo

The bearing should be a light press fit in the cup, so that that the crank just needs to be "rocked" out gently.

On installation a high-quality waterproof grease should have been used as an anti-seize / anti-galling measure.

If it's that firmly in there, it suggests that assembly was done without any grease and that the assembly has corroded together to some extent, or that the assembly was done with grease but the grease has been washed out over a very long period of time by water, or maybe as a result of exposure to a thinner lubricant (spray oils are one culprit we see often) or a degreaser / strong detergent (spray cleaners used around bearing assemblies - generally a bad idea).

A bearing puller is a better plan that BF & I with a drift etc, esp if the cup is still in the frame or if the cup is in fact a BB30 adapter or similar but I hear what you say about the costs of a suitable bearing puller, thecycleclinic.

@blablablacksheep - The grade of LocTite used on the BB cup if it's threaded should not be sufficient to prevent removal - it's only there to prevent fretting. We recommend 222 which can be broken with firm spanner pressure. If LocTite isn't available a tightening torque of 35nm is recommended - with the LocTite, you should find a parallel amount of spanner pressure is needed to break the LocTite. Best plan is to use the correct socket tool, UT-BB130 and a 3/8" drive / 24mm spanner.

If the cup has been hugely over-torqued or bonded into the frame, put the tool in a bench vice and use the frame as leverage but do so with extreme care - at this level of torque, if the frame is carbon and has an insert bonded into the BB shell, you are in danger of breaking the bond between the alloy and the carbon. If you need to go to this extent, it is is probably a job for a shop with a really competent mechanic.

If you have had sufficient corrosion going on in the cups to give the issue described, I'd probably recommend replacement of the cups in any case - once the cup is clean, the fit of bearing to cup is going to be compromised as any corrosion will have damaged the surface, removing a small amount of material.

Servicing - DON'T forget the circlip that retains the RH bearing on the half-axle - remove it before trying to pull the gearside bearing.

Also, DON'T use a slide hammer to refit the new bearings to the cranks (unfortunately half the UT toolkits out there include a slide hammer for this job), use a press. Hammering a bearing, any bearing, is a really bad idea (esp in the case of Campag CULT system).

Refit the circlip onto the axle to retain the drive-side bearing - easy to forget.

We generally recommend a new "safety clip" and wavy washer on re-assembly too - IOE the ends of the safety clip that project through & into the cup get slightly worn and can make noise if there is any bearing movement (and there will always be a tiny bit). It sounds as if the wavy washer in this case will be foobarred anyway.

HTH
Graeme
Velotech Cycling Ltd - Campagnolo Main UK Service Centre

blablablacksheep

Graeme
Thanks for that post very informative :-) .
I've competed the service here's what happened.

Drive side came out very easily, non drive was a issue as I posted above.
Upon speaking to lbs s they suggested I use a flat head screwdriver and gently wacky out the bearing from the drive side side with a hammer (as I was replacing bearing damaging it wasn't a issue)

Once bearing came out the cause of my issues with non drive side bearing was apparent,

They weren't greased enough/at all compared to drive side (canyon owners check/beware)

Im sorry Graeme had to use a slide hammer (park tool kit was used as I thought it be good).

Taking it for ride tomorrow will post results and if cult bearings give any noticeable difference.

PS I tightened centre bolt to your manual instructions of 42nm hope this correct (bolt itself said 42-65, very wide variation there...)

Any how that's how it went, very simple with right tools but very complicated compared to hollow tech system, not sure why champagne doesn't take up hollow tech?)