Screw in Tyre. Will it be ok? Pic's inc.

neal1984
neal1984 Posts: 240
edited June 2013 in Road general
Morning All,

I was cycling to work this morning and i've managed to pick up a nice screw through the rear tyre (A Durano Plus). I didn't have time to repair it so got home and threw the bike in the car and took it to work. I've removed the screw in my break and theres a small amount of canvass showing on the inside of the tyre. I've patched the inside and was wondering what your opinions were on if it will last? I would normally just see how it goes but I am taking part in the London Nightrider 100k on Saturday night so i could do with some advise? I'm thinking I should just replace it but I hate to waste money! I've uploaded a pic of the screw but I should have taken a pic of the other side really!

Life is like riding a bicycle: you don't fall off unless you stop pedaling.


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Comments

  • Any pictures of the tyre inflated after you took the screw out?
  • neal1984
    neal1984 Posts: 240
    Here you go:

    What do you think?

    Life is like riding a bicycle: you don't fall off unless you stop pedaling.


    Scott Foil Team Issue HMX Di2
    Boardman Team Carbon LTD
  • tmg
    tmg Posts: 651
    Why risk it? I would change it for the sake of £25
  • Hi, i've got a fair few surface gashes on the tyres and a couple going down to the membrane but i would replace any tyre in event that a decent sized foreign object penetrated right through. At 120psi i suppose there's a chance that a tyre will fail due to localised weakness. However, i would be surprised if manufacturers haven't considered this, particularly on decent spec-ed tyres. I think this one will be more about; "How do you feel?" As secure, or less secure than you were... Not sure if bike shops would bother fixing this but (car) tyre workshops do put plugs on tyres to repair penetration damage - might be worth asking but i imagine that with bike tyres being far shallower than car tyres this may be a non-starter.
  • neal1984
    neal1984 Posts: 240
    tmg your right it prob isn't worth risking. I'll go for a ride this afternoon and see but as volociroldster said at 120psi + my 88kg and prob another 10kg from a full caradice bag theres a lot of weight on the rear tyre too. I guess I could swap front and rear tyres as I put 90psi in the front for confort (25 width tyre) which would put a lot less strain on the tyre (and be easier to change if it did go wrong).

    Life is like riding a bicycle: you don't fall off unless you stop pedaling.


    Scott Foil Team Issue HMX Di2
    Boardman Team Carbon LTD
  • owenlars
    owenlars Posts: 719
    Bin it
  • Sir Velo
    Sir Velo Posts: 143
    If you have doubts over the tyre don't swap it to the front. I would consider a front tyre failure at speed (eg coming down a hill) worse than a rear; as you are steering with the front.

    SV
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    Personally, I'd patch the inside of the tyre as you said you did and put it on the back (you don't want to put it on the front for the sake of ease of repair because front blow outs are nastier than rear and if you actually expect it to be more likely to fail, better make it happen on the rear) - then you and just keep an eye on it.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • neal1984
    neal1984 Posts: 240
    Sir Velo wrote:
    If you have doubts over the tyre don't swap it to the front. I would consider a front tyre failure at speed (eg coming down a hill) worse than a rear; as you are steering with the front.

    SV
    Rolf F wrote:
    Personally, I'd patch the inside of the tyre as you said you did and put it on the back (you don't want to put it on the front for the sake of ease of repair because front blow outs are nastier than rear and if you actually expect it to be more likely to fail, better make it happen on the rear) - then you and just keep an eye on it.


    Thats a very good point which I didn't consider. I'll leave it on the rear and see how it is over the weekend. I plan on doing 20 to 30 miles this afternoon and around 50 tomorrow so that will be a very good indicator of how the tyre will fare over the 100 km on Saturday night although I am tempted to just replace it just so my mind is at ease. Thanks for all your replies!

    Life is like riding a bicycle: you don't fall off unless you stop pedaling.


    Scott Foil Team Issue HMX Di2
    Boardman Team Carbon LTD
  • priory
    priory Posts: 743
    when you next have to take it off you might put a patch or two over the hole inside to reduce the likelihood that the tube might herniate through to the outside and get punctured, which I have had happen with glass cuts . I would not have thought a screw would make such a big hole that that would happen.
    Raleigh Eclipse, , Dahon Jetstream XP, Raleigh Banana, Dawes super galaxy, Raleigh Clubman

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  • neal1984
    neal1984 Posts: 240
    priory wrote:
    when you next have to take it off you might put a patch or two over the hole inside to reduce the likelihood that the tube might herniate through to the outside and get punctured, which I have had happen with glass cuts . I would not have thought a screw would make such a big hole that that would happen.

    Yeah I did that when I replaced the tube. Just incase :)

    Life is like riding a bicycle: you don't fall off unless you stop pedaling.


    Scott Foil Team Issue HMX Di2
    Boardman Team Carbon LTD
  • iPete
    iPete Posts: 6,076
    Patch it with something suitable, maybe some old tyre and as above, stick it on the back if it worries you.
  • neal1984
    neal1984 Posts: 240
    Just been out for 20 mile ride and tyre seems fine. Ended up replacing the chain and cassette as well today due to excessive chain wear. Must be my own fault as its only done 600 miles but chain wear tool showed over 1mm stretch! :cry:

    Life is like riding a bicycle: you don't fall off unless you stop pedaling.


    Scott Foil Team Issue HMX Di2
    Boardman Team Carbon LTD
  • pdw
    pdw Posts: 315
    Try measuring the old chain with a ruler or tape measure. The vast majority of chain tools are prone to overstating wear. 600 miles is ridiculously quick to wear out a chain.
  • Sir Velo wrote:
    If you have doubts over the tyre don't swap it to the front. I would consider a front tyre failure at speed (eg coming down a hill) worse than a rear; as you are steering with the front.

    SV

    I have also heard that the deceleration caused by fast pressure loss can cause you to go over the handlebars. This may be bull...
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    bicycles like motorbikes are articulated, so as long as the front is pointing in the right direction the rear can pretty much do what it likes. So you can have the rear sliding and rolling all over the place and still be in control. When the front goes, you need to drop speed quick, which increases the load on the front and means the flat is more likely to roll off. This is also why MTbers tend to put the grippy or fat tyre on the front. If you watch superbikes or motogp, they will back the rear in almost every corner and still maintain control, once the front goes, they pretty much end up in the dirt.