Wheel Bearings...

rowlers

Wheels are new ground to me so, how do I get these bearings out to clean and regrease. The end caps are off:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/k7rkla503fsrc ... .25.06.jpg

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5fcsjrvgy3882 ... .25.13.jpg

Appols for kak pics....

ugo.santalucia

sealed bearings, don't touch them

rowlers

ugo.santalucia wrote:

sealed bearings, don't touch them

Ahh, so nothing needs to be done? They're not rough at them moment, but what happens when they do get a bit rough?

Thanks.

I'll be doing the back shortly, so will the bearings be the same?

declan1

When they get rough you just have to replace those black and silver bearing 'rings'. I'm sure ugo will tell you all about it as he knows considerably more than I do

ugo.santalucia

Yes, servicing sealed bearings is a waste of time... as they do get rough, you need to change them. Back will be the same for sure.
One thing you can do is to keep your freehub clean and lubricated with oil or very runny grease... pop it off, wipe the crap off, wipe the ratchet ring too, oil and stick back

ed_j

Nah rubbish! Just get a craft knife, pry off the rubber seal, degrease, dry then regrease and push seal back on.

PS Say 'Apolls' again and someone will probably slap you.

ugo.santalucia

Ed J wrote:

Nah rubbish! Just get a craft knife, pry off the rubber seal, degrease, dry then regrease and push seal back on.

PS Say 'Apolls' again and someone will probably slap you.

You can do that, but it is only effective in the unlikely scenario that the bearing has gone dry and it is still as good as new... otherwise it is a waste of time... extending the life of a sealed bearing by regreasing is a mirage...

ed_j

ugo.santalucia wrote:

You can do that, but it is only effective in the unlikely scenario that the bearing has gone dry and it is still as good as new... otherwise it is a waste of time... extending the life of a sealed bearing by regreasing is a mirage...

I don't agree, you can make a sealed bearing last forever by regularly regreasing it.

What's the difference between regreasing a sealed bearing and loose bearings? Why is one beneficial and not the other?

ugo.santalucia

Ed J wrote:

ugo.santalucia wrote:

You can do that, but it is only effective in the unlikely scenario that the bearing has gone dry and it is still as good as new... otherwise it is a waste of time... extending the life of a sealed bearing by regreasing is a mirage...

I don't agree, you can make a sealed bearing last forever by regularly regreasing it.

What's the difference between regreasing a sealed bearing and loose bearings? Why is one beneficial and not the other?

Sealed bearings have no tolerance to wear, hence they die quickly, especially if they have tiny balls... loose bearings can be adjusted for wear and tipically have larger balls. That is the rationale for servicing one (that tends to lose grease) and not the other(that does not lose grease but dies of premature wear)

rowlers

ugo.santalucia wrote:

Yes, servicing sealed bearings is a waste of time... as they do get rough, you need to change them. Back will be the same for sure.
One thing you can do is to keep your freehub clean and lubricated with oil or very runny grease... pop it off, wipe the crap off, wipe the ratchet ring too, oil and stick back

You're the man....
Anything II need to know to get the freehub off?

So for the future then, (save me asking again in xx months time!) how would I get the bearings out? I've seen a BR how that says you hammer the middle (silver bit in my case) out. True? Any particular side to whack from?

I've got a 275mile 2 day ride coming up and and going over the bike on saturday to make sure it will make it, as it has seen zero maintenance over winter.. :oops:

ugo.santalucia

rowlers wrote:

ugo.santalucia wrote:

Yes, servicing sealed bearings is a waste of time... as they do get rough, you need to change them. Back will be the same for sure.
One thing you can do is to keep your freehub clean and lubricated with oil or very runny grease... pop it off, wipe the crap off, wipe the ratchet ring too, oil and stick back

You're the man....
Anything II need to know to get the freehub off?

So for the future then, (save me asking again in xx months time!) how would I get the bearings out? I've seen a BR how that says you hammer the middle (silver bit in my case) out. True? Any particular side to whack from?

I've got a 275mile 2 day ride coming up and and going over the bike on saturday to make sure it will make it, as it has seen zero maintenance over winter.. :oops:

It very much depends on the hub... most likely you have two 5 mm allen key slots to remove the caps and the freehub simply slides off

rowlers

Cool.
And the front - do I knock the axle out?
Thanks....

ugo.santalucia

rowlers wrote:

Cool.
And the front - do I knock the axle out?
Thanks....

Again, depends on the model, but yes, generally speaking you knock the axle off...

rowlers

ugo.santalucia wrote:

rowlers wrote:

Cool.
And the front - do I knock the axle out?
Thanks....

Again, depends on the model, but yes, generally speaking you knock the axle off...

Awesome - thanks for your help

cycleclinic

Bearings that last forever is another myth.

Sometimes the you pull the axle out nad have to tap eah bearing out or buy the wheels manufacturig bearing extractors and remove them with the correct tool, either method work. To press back in a press is needed but this little more than a threaded bar and drift which in the the in the DIY case the old bearing makes a good drift. I of ourse have a special bearing press plus a range of drifts but this is very expensive.

On models that you have to knock the axle out and that take on of the bearings with it do not press both bearings back in before trying to fit the axle - that will obviously not work!

meanredspider

Can I just jump on this thread...

My OEM bearings are 6000RU and 6001RU (RU = single, non contacting, rubber seal)

A specialist bearing supplier suggests I can use 2RS rather than RU

Thoughts on this? Certainly 2RS will keep the crap/water out better which is a Good Thing but more friction and hence heat which is less good. They're considerably cheaper (both SKF). What I'm not sure about is why the OEM used RU

ugo.santalucia

meanredspider wrote:

Can I just jump on this thread...

My OEM bearings are 6000RU and 6001RU (RU = single, non contacting, rubber seal)

A specialist bearing supplier suggests I can use 2RS rather than RU

Thoughts on this? Certainly 2RS will keep the crap/water out better which is a Good Thing but more friction and hence heat which is less good. They're considerably cheaper (both SKF). What I'm not sure about is why the OEM used RU

Friction and heat generation are insignificant in the specific case... get those with double seal and from SKF

rowlers

ugo.santalucia wrote:

rowlers wrote:

ugo.santalucia wrote:

Yes, servicing sealed bearings is a waste of time... as they do get rough, you need to change them. Back will be the same for sure.
One thing you can do is to keep your freehub clean and lubricated with oil or very runny grease... pop it off, wipe the crap off, wipe the ratchet ring too, oil and stick back

You're the man....
Anything II need to know to get the freehub off?

So for the future then, (save me asking again in xx months time!) how would I get the bearings out? I've seen a BR how that says you hammer the middle (silver bit in my case) out. True? Any particular side to whack from?

I've got a 275mile 2 day ride coming up and and going over the bike on saturday to make sure it will make it, as it has seen zero maintenance over winter.. :oops:

It very much depends on the hub... most likely you have two 5 mm allen key slots to remove the caps and the freehub simply slides off

Just to confirm - you were correct. remove caps, freehub pulled off. It was in good condition. so a clean and re-grease (very lightly) and all is good.

meanredspider

ugo.santalucia wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

Can I just jump on this thread...

My OEM bearings are 6000RU and 6001RU (RU = single, non contacting, rubber seal)

A specialist bearing supplier suggests I can use 2RS rather than RU

Thoughts on this? Certainly 2RS will keep the crap/water out better which is a Good Thing but more friction and hence heat which is less good. They're considerably cheaper (both SKF). What I'm not sure about is why the OEM used RU

Friction and heat generation are insignificant in the specific case... get those with double seal and from SKF

Cool - thank you!