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Halfords replaced crank, now can't get into 1st gear..

nurglespussnurglespuss Posts: 43
edited May 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi all,

Well, the problem with my bike (slipping out of 2nd gear all the time) was identified as my crank being pretty chewed up, so I took it to Halfords (only place that could fit me in) who replaced it, checked the gears, replaced the cable etc.

I've taken it for 2 12mile rides since over mixed terrain, and both times, I simply cannot get it to change into 1st gear (smallest sprocket on the crank). Everything else is working fine, and its running much more smoothly (though a bit more noisily) than before.

I'm waiting for them to call me back with advice, as I'm meant to be going on a longer ride tomorrow over quite hilly climbs.

What do you guys think it could be?

Posts

  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,904
    Take it back or read Parktools (Read this first) below and adjust the mech.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • nurglespussnurglespuss Posts: 43
    I seem to be having difficulty with that, I've tried adjusting it, but without much success.

    I have no L or H on my screws (just the screws) to on the rear mech arm and two on the front by the crank.

    I've followed the guide though, and it has not really helped.

    Is there a standard 'reset' position for the screws? I'm not mechanically minded, and I know some folk find it easy, but my strengths lie in other areas.
  • supersonicsupersonic Posts: 82,708 Lives Here
    You need to try and identify which screw does what (they limit cage movement). There is no better guide than the park Tools guide.

    If you are still stuck them back to the shop.
  • nurglespussnurglespuss Posts: 43
    Cheers :)
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,747
    With the cable off, turn the screws, the one that has no effect is the H, the one that moves the cage (or may not want to turn) is the L.
  • nurglespussnurglespuss Posts: 43
    Ah thank you, so the cable should be disengaged?

    I seem to have a problem in that the guard (or whatever it is) above the biggest cog on the crank isn't giving enough space for the chain to pass, if I can solve that, I can leave the first gear problem until next week when I'll be able to get back to Halfords. I've adjusted the screws that move the guard in and out, but it simply won't move out far enough to give enough space.

    Almost at my wits end.

    Thanks for your continued advice.
  • Also double check that the new crank fits the same way as the old one, some cranks have a boss in the centre that is level with the smallest gear, others don't and therefore have a recess meaning the crank sits a bit closer to the frame and subsequently meaning that your mech may not be able to move close enough to get 1st
  • cooldadcooldad Posts: 32,904
    Ah thank you, so the cable should be disengaged?

    I seem to have a problem in that the guard (or whatever it is) above the biggest cog on the crank isn't giving enough space for the chain to pass, if I can solve that, I can leave the first gear problem until next week when I'll be able to get back to Halfords. I've adjusted the screws that move the guard in and out, but it simply won't move out far enough to give enough space.

    Almost at my wits end.

    Thanks for your continued advice.
    I think you are talking about the front mech.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
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