Cyclocross, tourer or something else

Artindoril
Artindoril Posts: 27
edited July 2013 in Commuting general
Hello,

I'm in the market for a bike mainly to commute 12 miles to work (all on main A roads). It needs to take panniers so that I can take a laptop, change of clothes, etc to and from work. But also I want to be able to take the panniers off for 40-100 mile rides at weekends (on back country lanes and main road, but also maybe an hour or two blast around the local lanes.

Evan's have suggested that a cyclocross bike would be the best fit and in that vain something like these two:

-http://www.evanscycles.com/products/norco/threshold-a2-disc-2013-cyclocross-bike-ec041208#features

-http://www.evanscycles.com/products/pinnacle/arkose-two-2013-cyclocross-bike-ec039562#features if you can fit panniers to it.

- or I might stretch to http://www.johnsbikes.co.uk/catalog/cdf-p-474.html

I've also considered a tourer, and looked at something like:

- http://www.evanscycles.com/products/rid ... e-ec043421

I'm stuck with the following scheme, so need to be able to get to a bike shop in the sw that stocks any suggestions and is on the list:

- http://www.bike2workscheme.co.uk

I know I want a jack of all trades, but anyone got any ideas that will cover all the bases? It doesn't need to off-road that well as I have a Trek Remedy 7 for when I want some serious off-road fun :)

Thanks in advance

Comments

  • night_porter
    night_porter Posts: 888
    Bearing in mind that the CDF is a steel bike and should therefore be more comfortable. Real Cycles have it on offer at £764.96 http://www.realcycles.com/m37b0s199p461 ... S_Cdf_2013 and if your bike to work scheme does not allow Real Cycles then Evans do price match so you could buy it from them.

    The big advantage of a cyclocross bike would be disc brakes and large tyre clearance. The tourer is quite low spec compared to the others but to be fair it is cheaper.
  • slowbike
    slowbike Posts: 8,498
    I started commuting to work on my road bike a couple of years ago - just once or twice a week. That stepped up last year to a few more times a week - all still on my roadie with no mudguards. I use a backpack to carry the essentials and leave shoes/clothes at work. I did used to carry the whole lot in - but it's a bit more of a faff.

    I did add a rack - but needed to use P clips as there are no mounting points. But shortly after a holiday (which is what I wanted the rack for) I took it off - it hasn't been back on since.

    Last winter I added crud roadracers mudguards - these helped quite a bit, but once I got off the A road the tyres (23mm GP4season) were picking up too much rubbish and grinding away the tyre and guard with the narrow clearance - so, having tried a straight bar hybrid for a few weeks, I bought a CX as I prefer the drops.

    Comparison between the roadie and CX is that the roadie is noticeably quicker (or less effort for same speed) - so given the choice I take the roadie - especially if I'm "out for a spin". The CX is far better at leisurely rides - and coupled with the option of wider/knobblies makes an excellent allrounder - without it I wouldn't have done half the commutes I have done (ice/snow) or ridden off track with friends - but I couldn't be without the roadie for the sheer speed....
  • inkz
    inkz Posts: 123
    You could also get a road bike, stick a Carradice SQR Slim on it and some crud catchers, best of all worlds then.
  • night_porter
    night_porter Posts: 888
    I ride to work in every weather and I hate not having mudguards on my bike. The spray from wet roads up your back and backside is really not for me.

    There are road bikes that can take racks and guards like a Giant Defy or Trek 1.5 but you are limited to having 25mm tyres and if that is okay then they are good bikes. It would make sense to change the brake pads for some proper wet weather ones as normal caliper brakes in rain and traffic are scary. Seatpost racks are easily removed so the weekend jaunts would be easier.

    The big advantages of a cross bike would be larger tyres under full mudguards to increase comfort and disc brakes for wet weather which are affected less by water.

    The disadvantages of a cross bike is the extra weight but to be honest if you are carrying a laptop and clothes you really are not going to notice the extra weight.
  • mr_eddy
    mr_eddy Posts: 830
    All those you have listed would do the job, As other's have said cyclocross or rugged road bikes would be absolutely fine, I run 25c tyres which are more than enough even on wet roads and can fire roads / urban streets no probs.

    I like the look of the charge filter hi, also would tick all the boxes. Not super cheap but good value with smart looks / disc brakes / Rack points / Guards fitted and 28c tyres plus solid Tiagra shifting.

    http://chargebikes.com/products/filter-hi/

    If I had the cash I would buy one in a heart beat.
  • Artindoril
    Artindoril Posts: 27
    Hmm since it's going to be a winter commuter (snow/ice) as well I think a cx is sounding the way to go. Seriously tempted by that charge filter. Does anyone know the narrowest tyres that will fit on them? Also, anyone know what it's like to live with?

    Thanks all for the help so far.
  • clarkey cat
    clarkey cat Posts: 3,641
    Have you considered an Audax bike?
    These are essentially normal road bikes but with clearances for mudguards and can take slightly larger tyres. They can usually take a rack if that appeals. I've had two audax bikes for my commute and they are only marginally slower than my Carbon road bike. I've used them both for long blasts into the countryside too (and even a time trial).
    I've had the Condor Fratello and the Hewitt Chiltern. These are both made of steel and offer a very comfortable ride and lovely looks. Links below:
    http://www.condorcycles.com/Audax-Commu ... e.tpl.html
    http://www.hewittcycles.co.uk/hewitt-chiltern

    They are at the pricier end but you can get cheaper (aluminium) audax bikes like the Ribble Audax (which can now get in steel and even Carbon):
    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/pu/road-t ... dition/1rw
    or the Tifosi CK7
    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/tifosi-ck7-auda ... Tifosi_CK7

    Personally I think an audax bike is the best option for a commute.
    Dolan Mythos
  • Artindoril
    Artindoril Posts: 27
    Hi Clarke cat,

    No I've not considered an Audax bike at all. Didn't even know they existed! Think it's going to be a trip down to the local bike stores on the scheme and take a few things out for a test ride and work out what's best.

    There seems so much choice for doing the job I want :shock:
  • clarkey cat
    clarkey cat Posts: 3,641
    one thing to bear in mind when choosing is - what will your riding look like in 6 months' time?
    people often get something nice and sensible and then 6 months down the line think - jeez I wish I had bought a Pinarello Dogma!
    Dolan Mythos
  • matt@theforce
    matt@theforce Posts: 647
    I too looked at the Norco A2 but am waiting for a Merida Cyclocross4 to try. For an extra £50 over the Norco you get 105 groupset (minus the chainset and bb) and I prefer it cosmetically.
  • jawooga
    jawooga Posts: 530
    I have a 2010 Kona Jake the Snake cyclocross bike that I bought on a bike to work scheme a couple of years ago. I love it as it is kitted out with marathon plus tyres, guards and pannier rack, and it feels very sturdy when I am on rough gravel paths etc that I wouldn't necessarily take an out-and-out road bike on. The 105 groupset is very slick as well.

    However, I would prefer disk brakes, which obviously you can get on CX nowadays - you couldn't in 2010.

    Also, you may want to pay attention to what chain rings you get. I didn't really know what I was buying when I got mine, and the chainrings are 36/46, which I believe is a fairly typical CX set up. However, very rarely, the 46 doesn't give me a high enough gear, and in an ideal world I would have gone for a compact 36/50.

    In general though, I would recommend a CX bike.
  • MikeParkin65
    MikeParkin65 Posts: 29
    For regular commuting I would avoid 10 speed's. I've got a Raleigh Pioneer thats 5 or 6 years old running 8 speed Sora and a Tifosi CK7 with 10speed 105. A chain on the Sora lasts on average 3 or 4 times longer than the 105 and costs less than half the price of a 105 chain to replace.
  • Artindoril
    Artindoril Posts: 27
    Thanks for the advice everyone.

    After a visit to my trusted LMB store I decided to go with one of these:

    http://www.johnsbikes.co.uk/catalog/dom ... p-448.html

    Now all I need to do is get my employer to order the voucher so I can stop using the trains and start riding again :)
  • night_porter
    night_porter Posts: 888
    Nice bike and full mudguards won't be a problem on that.

    You will miss out on larger tyres and the ability to attach a proper pannier rack though.

    If the decoupler is as comfortable as everyone is saying you won't need the larger tyres anyway.

    I do find it strange that they put the rack screws into the top part of the frame but recommend you do not add a rack (Q&A section on Trek UK website) because of the "Vanishing Fender Mounts".

    Let us know how you get on with it though as it looks interesting.

    NP
  • clarkey cat
    clarkey cat Posts: 3,641
    very jealous. would really like one of these.

    to whet your appetite check out this very cool vid: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zjy1sa6VUoo
    Dolan Mythos
  • Artindoril
    Artindoril Posts: 27
    Well picked the bike up yesterday and today was the first commute.

    Very comfortable ride, the thing goes over the cobbles like my hard tail mtb does! Can't say I'd want to stick wider tyres on it at all. Only problem I have with it is the saddle. Feels like I've been kicked after 10 miles! That'll probably get changed very soon. Other than that it's a great bike :)

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