Top of v-brakes are loose
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notnot
Posts: 284
The Shimano v-brakes on front of my bike have come lose. They still stop the bike reliably, but the mechanism moves from left to right far too easily (you can easily put the top of the mechanism from left to right with a fingertip). This means it often ends up with the pads rubbing the wheel.
If anyone knows how I can tighten these up so they stay in the same position, that would be great. Hope the description I've given makes sense, and sorry about the stupid question!
If anyone knows how I can tighten these up so they stay in the same position, that would be great. Hope the description I've given makes sense, and sorry about the stupid question!
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Comments
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Sounds like the springs are not engaged. On most V-brakes you can release the spring tension to aid wheel removal/replacement and pad position setting.
A photo would help diagnosis.- - - - - - - - - -
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Thanks for the reply. Camera's on the blink, but they look rather like these ones http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=h ... AQ&dur=407
The top of the brake - the bit on the picture with a plastic ridged cover over the cable - slides far too easily from left to right (or vice versa) on my bike: you can push it with a fingertip, and it easily gets knocked out of place.0 -
So it's just the rubber boot that covers the end of the noodle?
Don't worry about it. It just protects against dirt ingress, but I've never known one stay in place for very long.- - - - - - - - - -
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Sadly not - the whole top of the brake (the bit the rubber boot covers, and the metal to either side of the boot) slides from left to right, which moves the pads out of position.0
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OK, so the brake arm moves too? And then does not spring back into place?- - - - - - - - - -
On Strava.{/url}0 -
Yes - brake arms move and don't spring back into place, meaning that the pads can rub.0
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Could do with pictures. Like I say, sounds like your springs are not engaged.- - - - - - - - - -
On Strava.{/url}0 -
Or not adjusted correctly....Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
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on the back of the arm there's a spring, if that's slipped from it's locating lug, then this can happen.0
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Right, here's a first rubbish photo0
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And here's the second
Any suggestions on what to try adjusting? Or I can take better pictures of particular bits in the daylight.0 -
Looks like the spring on the LH arm's either not in place properly or needs replacing, the guide for the brake cable also looks as though it needs replacing, as it's kinked and appears to be pinching the cable.0
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Thanks. If there's an idiot's guide to checking (and potentially replacing) brake arm springs, that would be great.
(The cable looks kinked in the photo, but I think that's an effect of camera angle/shadow. It's a nice smooth curve when you see it in real life)
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Remove cable, push arm so pad touches rim, let go, does it spring back, if yes the spring is fitted and working (load can be adjusted by the small screw near the base, caution the heads round out easily) if no the spring is either damaged or not located in the fork (3 holes, one should have the and of the spring wire poking thorugh it).
the kinked noodle (the steel tube the cable tries to run through) will cause the brakes to stick on by not allowing the cable to retract.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
Thanks! Adjusted springs and brakes, and I think I've fixed it
Will go for a spin tomorrow to make sure - but looks much better here.
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