Mud Hugger, Ass Saver or Butt Fender?

Initialised

I'm looking for some minimalist, easy-on, easy-off, lightweight, preferably backpackable rain proofing suitable for a road bike.

I'm thinking:

Butt Fender or Ass Saver for the damp days, where the road is wet but it's not really raining.



and a Gut Fender on the down tube (would this look daft on a road bike?)



Mudhugger on the rear (when they are out and scaled down to fit road tyres)



But how to stop getting sprayed in the face by the front wheel on the really wet days without going to full guards?

Thoughts or alternatives?

iPete

Full guards or MTFU








just ordered an Ass Saver

meanredspider

The Zefal SwanR is great - it's what I use for the rear - easy on and off. I don't use a front guard and, unlike on the MTB, I don't get anything in the face just wet feet

Cycloslalomeur

iPete wrote:

Full guards or MTFU<BR sab="843"><BR sab="844"><BR sab="845"><BR sab="846"><BR sab="847"><BR sab="848"><BR sab="849"><BR sab="850"><BR sab="851">just ordered an Ass Saver

This indeed used to be a Rule, until, that is, photographic evidence emerged proving that even the pros use bumflaps. Thus I'm confident that the next time I'm out on a club run in Meise and I pass the baron himself buying a croissant he'll give an approving nod as he studies my Ar5e Saver.

gavbarron

http://road.cc/content/review/33843-crud-roadracer-mk2-mudguards

Can't really notice they are there with a passing glance. They certainly look better than fitting mtb bits on a road bike :roll:

rolf_f

Initialised wrote:

and a Gut Fender on the down tube (would this look daft on a road bike?)

If you must make your road bike look daft with something like that at least do it properly and fit the proper ones - Cruds

Otherwise, as said, do it properly or MTFU!

meanredspider wrote:

The Zefal SwanR is great - it's what I use for the rear - easy on and off. I don't use a front guard and, unlike on the MTB, I don't get anything in the face just wet feet

You really ought to use front mudguards - they are the ones that matter! Given a choice of front or back only, I'd ditch the rears every time.......

Initialised

gavbarron wrote:

http://road.cc/content/review/33843-crud-roadracer-mk2-mudguards

Can't really notice they are there with a passing glance. They certainly look better than fitting mtb bits on a road bike :roll:

Thanks for that, getting them for the wetter days and an Ass Saver or Butt Fender for the not bad but I don't want a wet but days

rubertoe

Initialised wrote:

gavbarron wrote:

http://road.cc/content/review/33843-crud-roadracer-mk2-mudguards

Can't really notice they are there with a passing glance. They certainly look better than fitting mtb bits on a road bike :roll:

Thanks for that, getting them for the wetter days and an Ass Saver or Butt Fender for the not bad but I don't want a wet but days

Just be aware that the cruds are not as easy on and off as you think, great guards none the less but more of a permenant guard than quick on and off guard.

For quick on and off guards have a look at SKS raceblades

click

iPete

Cruds are great if you can fit them OK and leave them on. Mine did a fantastic job over Winter, apart from all the rubbing. Maybe not best to fit them on a track bike. I can't be bothered to put them back on now, so an ass guard it is.

I've used a roadie crud catcher, it's OK, you still get wet feet which defeats the point.

Full guards or nothing still holds true, I'll be buying a fixie frame with mudguard eyelets soon.

meanredspider

Rolf F wrote:

You really ought to use front mudguards - they are the ones that matter! Given a choice of front or back only, I'd ditch the rears every time.......

Why do you say that? Given the choice of wet feet (easily solved with overshoes) or a wet back & butt - I know which I'd choose every time...

iPete

Overshoes are rubbish without guards, I'm with rolf, front guard always. Nothing like 2-3 hours in the rain to get home and still have dry socks.

rick_chasey

If you're small and have toe overlap (like I do) a front mudguard doesn't help either. The water just runs off the mudguard onto your feet.

rick_chasey

If you're small and have toe overlap (like I do) a front mudguard doesn't help either. The water just runs off the mudguard onto your feet.

meanredspider

iPete wrote:

Overshoes are rubbish without guards, I'm with rolf, front guard always. Nothing like 2-3 hours in the rain to get home and still have dry socks.

Maybe it's bike & rider geometry but overshoes keep my feet dry from road spray (less good for proper rain). Riding with a soggy butt though is horrible. And, like Rick, overlap is an issue at the front - the Volagi has front & rear fender eyes but I can't use a full front guard - nor is it an issue.

cookeeemonster

I've tried Cruds (rubbed like hell, broke, replaced after moved to 25c tyre) and currently have sks raceblades (a lot easier to get on and off, and dont rub once you put them on properly...but i had to glue them at the front to stop them moving and rubbing ) and basically, my legs up to my knees still get road crap on them when its raining.

Overshoes are good to stop you having to dry and then clean your shoes...but its bloody annoying having my legs covered in crap.

Do other people get this? Maybe its all the puddles I go through on the crappy cyclepaths I use (CS3). Dont seem to get it as much when just on the road

Initialised

Actually not sure I can fit Cruds, as I have too much clearance. So I think SKS Raceblades with the metal spray painted matt black as they look easier to take on and off and an Ass Saver for when I get caught out. On MRS's point I need a new set of water proof overshoes too.

rolf_f

meanredspider wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

You really ought to use front mudguards - they are the ones that matter! Given a choice of front or back only, I'd ditch the rears every time.......

Why do you say that? Given the choice of wet feet (easily solved with overshoes) or a wet back & butt - I know which I'd choose every time...

Because as a naturalised Scotsman (!) you should be looking at it this way - doesn't matter how wet you get, you'll be dry once you get to work. The important thing about the front guards is the amount of drivetrain wear they reduce. Your front mech will last longer, your chainrings will last longer, your rear mech will last longer, your freehub will last longer, the rear wheel bearings will last longer. That spray from the front wheel really does damage. Front mudguards = less pennies spent.

Of course, I don't really advocate not having the rear either. Both is the ideal.

Initialised

SKS raceblades and Endura waterproof overshoes ordered, thanks for the tips.

Will have to wait and see if the Mudhugger guys can make something for disc based road and CX bikes.

Ben6899

rjsterry

CookeeeMonster wrote:

I've tried Cruds (rubbed like hell, broke, replaced after moved to 25c tyre) and currently have sks raceblades (a lot easier to get on and off, and dont rub once you put them on properly...but i had to glue them at the front to stop them moving and rubbing ) and basically, my legs up to my knees still get road crap on them when its raining.

Overshoes are good to stop you having to dry and then clean your shoes...but its bloody annoying having my legs covered in crap.

Do other people get this? Maybe its all the puddles I go through on the crappy cyclepaths I use (CS3). Dont seem to get it as much when just on the road

I get this too. Raceblades are good, but the front guard doesn't pass under the fork and extend forward, and the rear guard has a large chunk covering the section from the. Rear brake to the BB, and quite a lot of spray comes off both these unguarded sections. I'd fit full guards if my frame would take them.

@Ben6899: Does that small guard really do anything useful?

rolf_f

meanredspider wrote:

And, like Rick, overlap is an issue at the front - the Volagi has front & rear fender eyes but I can't use a full front guard - nor is it an issue.

I guess different things bother different people! Eg I don't understand how overlap can be an issue. It matters on mountain bikes and I can see it matters on a fixed but on a normal road bike it shouldn't be an issue. I have overlap on my Ribble. Occasionally if I'm clumsy, my foot catches the Crud when I move off from standstill and that occasionally means a quick pull on a stay to sort consequent rubbing but this is rare and it isn't a problem - certainly not compared to the increased maintenance costs and wet feetness I'd suffer without the Cruds! Each to their own of course!

Ben6899

rjsterry wrote:

@Ben6899: Does that small guard really do anything useful?

It keeps my bibs/chamois dry in Spring/Summer downpours. Don't get me wrong, it's no solution for winter riding (and this bike has Cruds fitted from October-April).

meanredspider

Rolf F wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

And, like Rick, overlap is an issue at the front - the Volagi has front & rear fender eyes but I can't use a full front guard - nor is it an issue.

I guess different things bother different people! Eg I don't understand how overlap can be an issue. It matters on mountain bikes and I can see it matters on a fixed but on a normal road bike it shouldn't be an issue.

It's pretty simple - my foot catches the guard and I can't make tight turns (I need to make several on my commute).

iPete

You learn pretty quickly on a track bike that tight turns = on your ass.

Speaking of which my ass guard has arrived.

rjsterry

meanredspider wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

And, like Rick, overlap is an issue at the front - the Volagi has front & rear fender eyes but I can't use a full front guard - nor is it an issue.

I guess different things bother different people! Eg I don't understand how overlap can be an issue. It matters on mountain bikes and I can see it matters on a fixed but on a normal road bike it shouldn't be an issue.

It's pretty simple - my foot catches the guard and I can't make tight turns (I need to make several on my commute).

I have toe overlap on my Giant, even without guards or overshoes, but it is only a problem at very low speeds/tight turns. You can do tight turns, but need to have the cranks horizontal and the inside foot forward. A bit of 'ratchet-ing' the pedals helps. Obviously, if you need to negotiate two opposing tight turns in quick succession, it can get tricky as you haven't got space to turn the pedals half a revolution in between, so you need to back pedal (and hope you don't run out of momentum).

Stevo C

You may feel uncomfortable with the idea of copying someone else's work, but it's really easy to make your own Ass Saver - if you can find a suitable sheet of plastic. I used a 1.0mm thick sheet of plastic

The first post has a picture of the flattened ass saver - print it out at the required photo size (or even go old school and blow it up on the photocopier). Cut around the shape and use it is a template to mark out the form on a sheet of plastic. Create the holes with a hole punch and use sharp scissors to cut out. Score the plastic in two places with a sharp knife to create the living hinges.

I've made one for three of my bikes and have found that each one needs the bit under the saddle trimming differently to fit.

paul_mck

crud II yokes all the way. use a heatgun to soften up the guard mounts at the end of the stays for more clearance. I run a 28/25mm tyre combo on my singlespeed commuter and they have loads of clearance now and dont rub.

you really need the rear brake to BB section I found or the water just sprays onto your calves and into your shoes.

I might get an ass saver for the good bike though can you get them in the UK yet? Or are they still posted from sweden or something?

rolf_f

meanredspider wrote:

Rolf F wrote:

meanredspider wrote:

And, like Rick, overlap is an issue at the front - the Volagi has front & rear fender eyes but I can't use a full front guard - nor is it an issue.

I guess different things bother different people! Eg I don't understand how overlap can be an issue. It matters on mountain bikes and I can see it matters on a fixed but on a normal road bike it shouldn't be an issue.

It's pretty simple - my foot catches the guard and I can't make tight turns (I need to make several on my commute).

But surely if a turn is that tight (and it would need to be really, really tight) you just roll round it with cranks at 6 o'clock. If a turn is so tight as to cause overlap then you're hardly going to need to pedal around it

iPete

paul_mck wrote:

I might get an ass saver for the good bike though can you get them in the UK yet? Or are they still posted from sweden or something?

They (or someone else) is selling them via eBay, took 2 days to turn up.

And Rolf, not so easy fixed

paul_mck

perfect, got one ordered cheers

meanredspider

Rolf F wrote:

But surely if a turn is that tight (and it would need to be really, really tight) you just roll round it with cranks at 6 o'clock. If a turn is so tight as to cause overlap then you're hardly going to need to pedal around it

180 deg footpath width (4-5') hairpin turn tight enough? I also do a tight R then L "Z". And, honestly, I've been commuting for 3 years without a front guard without a second thought. I've needed 3 or 4 chains, 1 or 2 cassettes and zero bearings in that time. In fact, the only bike-related issues I've had from lack of guards is on my MTB with the front mech being in the firing line and I seem to have solved that with an off-cut of old innertube.