Front Disc Brake "rattle"

PYT1984
PYT1984 Posts: 10
edited March 2016 in MTB workshop & tech
My bike is only a couple of months old but it's started to make a rattling sound at the front disc.
Any ideas to what could be causing this?

I'm a bit of a noob to repairs and maintenance so any help would be great.

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    lose disc?
    bearings of hub need adjusting?
    pads vibrating?

    plus a few others.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • levolon
    levolon Posts: 78
    lose caliper bolts?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    What brake (make and model).

    Mechanical (cable) are prone to loose pads....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • PYT1984
    PYT1984 Posts: 10
    Thanks for the replies.

    The bike is a Cannondale Trail SL1 2012. It has Avid Elixir Hydraulic Discs.

    After further riding it sounds more like a buzz than a rattle.

    I could just take it to the local bike shop but I'd much rather learn to do these things on my own if possible.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Does light braking (just feathering it on) stop the rattle? if so it's either a loose disc or pads....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • daviddgriffiths
    daviddgriffiths Posts: 2
    I have a new Raleigh Revenio 5, which has hydraulic Shimano disc brakes. The front actual disc rivetted assembly is retained by a standard Shimano splined nut. For packaging reasons, this disc had not been pre-assembled. Following assembly, it says to tighten to 40Nm. Mine seems tight (no torque meter) but there is a small amount of free movement, on the serrations. I think this is at least partly the cause of the rather annoying rattling I hear. If I apply the front brake, whilst stationary, I can 'feel' this free movement. For me, this ‘slight free-play’ plus the fact that one cannot ‘lock up’ the ‘wheel/fork/brake’ assembly, at the fork crown, as with conventional rim brakes, means I’m not finding it so easy to establish that I have correctly set the tightness in both upper and lower bearing races in the ahead type headset.
    All that said, I’m finding the bike gives an excellent ride, with very smooth, and easy to control, braking.
    For the last fifteen years, my bikes have all had triple chainsets but this one, being an 11 speed compact, appears to match the ratios (I’m past counting teeth :wink: ) , is super smooth to operate and one less thing to consider.
    A last point, this bike seems to me to handle better than any previous bikes I’ve had, cornering really well, nice :)
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Shame you didn't think before posting really, once you have baked, what force is applied to rotate the disc back on its splines? Answer is none, most likely you are witnessing the pads moving slightly in the calliper, and of course this is all a thread hijack as it has no relevance to the OP's case at ll.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • daviddgriffiths
    daviddgriffiths Posts: 2
    No SHAME involved matey!
    The rattle WAS not when braking.
    Anyhow, took the wheel out and, using a 20cm adjustable and the Shimano block remover, nipped up the fixing.
    Result? No free movement or rattle (when the bike is bounced)
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Argh, so the fixing wasn't tight.....40Nm is a lot more than nipped up, so user error.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    The only shame is posting about a road bike in an MTB forum.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    [url=http://www.bikeradar.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=19629476#p19629476]cooldad[/url] wrote:
    The only shame is posting about a road bike in an MTB forum.

    Not just a road bike, a Raleigh as well. The last decent bike they made was the Burner back in the 80's

    Back on subject, mine used to rattle in a similar way to what the OP describes, never found the cause and just put it down to the front rotor vibrating with front wheel impacts. When I changed the disc it stopped. It never actually caused any problems.
    Transition Patrol - viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=13070235
  • michaelnh1
    michaelnh1 Posts: 1
    Hi, after picking up an annoying rattle on a front disc brake on a bike I intend to tour Asia on.I began trying the usual things, tightening all the nuts and bolts on the entire bike, then un-tightening re-tightening screaming whilst all the time bouncing the bike. I knew it couldn't be the brake pads being fitted poorly because I fitted them and well I surely can't still be making mistakes after all these years, I've simply made too many to not know these things . Yet, sure enough, as Sherlock said," When everything else is discounted what remains is the truth" The problem was I'd fitted my pads without the spring so the brakes worked but the bike rattled. So what's the spring for between brake pads.....its to stop annoying rattles.

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