Rear hub confusion

paulneenan76
paulneenan76 Posts: 777
edited May 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi All

I have a superstar trizoid rear hub, and occasionally their is minimal play (side to side) in the rear wheel. I don't know if its related but there is a section of the hub on the drive side which I can undo and do back up finger tight? When I do this (and then make sure I do the QR up proper tight) it works fine with no play in the rear - but it doesnt last more than a few rides. Is this an easy fix?

trizoidsuper.jpg its the bit (black/silver/black) which sits in the cassette housing. Is this the spacer?? The non drive side (same bit) is firm and tight.

Any movement is a worry and I'd rather sort it now to avoid replacement.

Any help appreciated as always
Family, Friends, Fantastic trails - what else is there

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Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The 2 end caps should be done up tight using allen keys (one each end, tighten against each other - some use cone spanners not allen keys), if they are loose it can allow side to side movement, finger tight isn't tight.

    If it's loose then it won't matter how tight you do the QR as the wheel is moving between the 2 end caps which is what the QR squashes thedropouts against.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • paulneenan76
    paulneenan76 Posts: 777
    Thanks The Beginner. Hopefully a quick job this evening then.

    How tight?

    Paul
    Family, Friends, Fantastic trails - what else is there

    viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12898838
    viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12897374
  • levolon
    levolon Posts: 78
    if the bearings are good and the axle is done up so no play, id be looking at the qr ..
    that said you wont be the first to have bearing issues with SS bearings so may be down to play there ?

    if the qr isn't griping well it will look like play as it wont grip the frame tightly despite being done up tight.
    qr's shouldn't need to be super tight really as risk of snapping.
    have you got any other skewers to swap to check?

    i had play in my 20mm front SS evo after changing adapters from qr and that was down to the hub caps not fully home so had play until i pressed them in a mm more, the rear are threaded so this wont apply to rear for fix..


    hth
  • paulneenan76
    paulneenan76 Posts: 777
    Thanks but the bearings have been replaced with some bloody good ones, I.e, not superstar jobs and their is no play in the axle.

    Not got round to it yet but I suspect the Beginner has nailed it.

    Cheers though.

    Paul
    Family, Friends, Fantastic trails - what else is there

    viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12898838
    viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12897374
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    How tight, moderately tight with allen keys (not a ratchet!).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • levolon
    levolon Posts: 78
    How tight, moderately tight with allen keys (not a ratchet!).


    where does the Allan key go on a SS axle for tightening?

    mine are hand tight and run perfect and its cone type ends for tightening on SS axles

    just saying :wink:
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The allen key goes inside the ends of the end caps, some use that (spot the cone spanner flats above - I can't - mine are Trizoid and use an allen key and have no flats) and some cone spanners, you say hand tight (cone spanners) Paul was talking finger tight on the caps - very different!

    Just saying.....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • levolon
    levolon Posts: 78
    The allen key goes inside the ends of the end caps, some use that (spot the cone spanner flats above - I can't - mine are Trizoid and use an allen key and have no flats) and some cone spanners, you say hand tight (cone spanners) Paul was talking finger tight on the caps - very different!

    Just saying.....

    ok, i do like to have all the fact's as it helps
    cant see anything about Allan keys here though as all the same as i first thought ? http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/index.ph ... stkn513q02

    think the op issue is bearings not fully home though as he fitted new ones "which he said later"

    so as bearing moves inward the wheel develops play , this will keep happening until bearings are fully seated....

    he will get there after a few re-adjustments or they can be drifted home using a correct diameter drift for the outer shell..
    only needs a few thou gap to make em wobble
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I assure you some SS hubs don't have cone flats, are yours even Trizoid (which is what Paul and I have)?

    I can get photo's all round mine if you don't believe me?

    Not sure what that link is meant to add.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • levolon
    levolon Posts: 78
    I assure you some SS hubs don't have cone flats, are yours even Trizoid (which is what Paul and I have)?

    I can get photo's all round mine if you don't believe me?

    Not sure what that link is meant to add.


    if you mean the free hub has an allan key , fine as some hubs do need a allan key for removal

    but this is the bit i mean "axle" and what the first post inferred ie wobbly wheel and not a lose free hub??

    quote from SS Who sell the trizoid

    You need a 17mm cone spanner to undo the endcap on driveside and another to hold the axle stationary.
    Do not add more than a tiny smear of grease to the workings as it will cause them to skip. They are meant to be run dry.

    Regards, Neil (superstar)


    ill leave you too it bud as you and paul should get it sorted between you.....
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    On mine, the two end caps (Black alloy with a silver steel ring you can see either side of the hub/freehub in the above pictures) are tightened onto the centre axle using an allen key up the inside.

    That may be a quote from SS, but does it relate to ALL YEARS of Trizoid?

    Both caps unscrew off the central axle (and act as adaptors, you can change them for bolt through axles instead of QR), so you tighten one onto the axle (holding the axle by it's own larger internal allen key) and then tighten the second (5mm from memory, may be 6mm) onto the axle by using a small allen key at each end (as with the cap in place you can't access the axle internal allen slot which is bigger) one in each cap. I have seen an SS service document for a non trixoid hub that susggests using cone spanners, but on mine there are no flats for spanners, so you have to use allen keys.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • levolon
    levolon Posts: 78
    so you mean a grub screw to secure the axle adjuster which is now obsolete on a replacement point of view ... yes
    if that was how they did it a few yrs ago then that's fine , cant argue with that as that makes sense finally ...
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    No I doubt mean a fricking grub screw, you shove an allen key in the end (in line with the axle) and the cap screws onto the bl**dy axle, just like you would with those ruddy cone spanners you mention.....try sodding reading what is written and you'd know they couldn't be grub screws (and 5 or 6mm grub screws - sheesh).

    Incidentaly the front adaptors are retained by small grub screws.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • levolon
    levolon Posts: 78
    No I doubt mean a ******* grub screw, you shove an allen key in the end (in line with the axle) and the cap screws onto the bl**dy axle, just like you would with those ruddy cone spanners you mention.....try sodding reading what is written and you'd know they couldn't be grub screws (and 5 or 6mm grub screws - sheesh).

    Incidentaly the front adaptors are retained by small grub screws.

    so not cone spanners than??

    try chill pill .com
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Try stop being a berk!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • jairaj
    jairaj Posts: 3,009
    FWIW - I understand you fine Beginner. I have two different axles from Superstar one is done up using allen keys the other is done up using cone spanners.

    Paul - yep try tightening them up with spanner or allen key (what ever fitting your end caps are) and should be OK. Its most likely that finger tight is not enough, I had a similar issue.
  • paulneenan76
    paulneenan76 Posts: 777
    Thanks everyone. I've got a few jobs pencilled in for tomorrow evening and this is top of the list. I'll let you know how I got on.

    Cheers

    Paul
    Family, Friends, Fantastic trails - what else is there

    viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12898838
    viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12897374
  • paulneenan76
    paulneenan76 Posts: 777
    Done. Thanks The Beginner, your advice was spot on as per, and thanks for the confirmation Jairaj.

    Paul
    Family, Friends, Fantastic trails - what else is there

    viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12898838
    viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12897374