Jockey wheel sizes
AirliteRider
Posts: 16
I have two different sized jockey wheels on my derailleur, top 10T and the bottom 13T. Can I replace them both with the same size wheels 2 x 10T or 2 x 11T and what would the impact be if both were the same size?
0
Comments
-
Jockey wheels have upper and lower stamped on them.....probably best to fit them that way round.0
-
as said, the guide (top) is often a different design to the tension (lower) jockey, as it can have some side-to-side 'float' built in. That said, you can run different sizes if you want.
However, a bigger top jockey will move the chain closer to the sprockets, so clearance can be an issue. And the mech itself often has a metal tab on the cage which can foul the chain if you run very big jockeys - 11t are usually fine but go up to 13t and you can get rubbing. You can always file/hacksaw the tab down though.Facts are meaningless, you can use facts to prove anything that's remotely true! - Homer0 -
Cheers Maddog - so as long as I don't go any bigger than the 11 T I should be alright to use them. Been looking for jockey wheels online and all I could see were the 10T and 11T wheels. Now searched for tension wheels and the 13T is there. Just needed to search for the right thing.0
-
maddog 2 wrote:as said, the guide (top) is often a different design to the tension (lower) jockey, as it can have some side-to-side 'float' built in. That said, you can run different sizes if you want.
However, a bigger top jockey will move the chain closer to the sprockets, so clearance can be an issue. And the mech itself often has a metal tab on the cage which can foul the chain if you run very big jockeys - 11t are usually fine but go up to 13t and you can get rubbing. You can always file/hacksaw the tab down though.
I was right there with you until you mentioned the file / hacksaw part.
I would urge the OP to buy original equipment parts in this case. i.e. you have a Shimano rear "D", then buy the Shimano jockey wheels(made by Shimano) that are meant to fit it. This brings up two questions. Why WOULDN'T you buy Shimano jockey wheels? What advantage is there in NOT doing so? :?0 -
Dennisn - Yep I agree but when I was looking online I couldn't see any with 13T for the, as I now know, tension wheel all I could see were the 11T and the odd 10T jockey wheels. As I have a shimano d then I would want to stay with the shimano brand. It was more a case of what size I needed, obviously 10T and 13T would replicate what is on the bike now and so I just wanted to know the possibilities of having two wheels on the d that were the same size.0
-
When ever I've bought any they have always come in pairs in a box.You ask for them for 10 speed if that's what you have.My last ones were an upgrade with proper bearings in instead of a plain bush.0
-
Cheers, I have seen pairs for sale on Ebay but both wheels have the same number of teeth although they are marked upper and lower hence the confusion around the tension wheel having 13 teeth on my current setup.0
-
If you replace your wheels with ones that are smaller, it will reduce the overall capacity of the rear derailleur, its much like shortening the cage by the difference in the radius of the wheel.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
Find me on Strava0 -
So all things said - I am best staying with the setup I have at present (10T jockey and 13T tension) and if I want to change look at a new derailleur etc etc that is set up for the different size wheels. Cheers for everyones input I'll stop boring you all now.0
-
lower end Shimano jockeys aren't that good, that's all. They run on bushings which wear, then go sloppy. The top end (DA) ones are okay though. But for budget, the look at Tacx ones IMO.Facts are meaningless, you can use facts to prove anything that's remotely true! - Homer0
-
Old thread but I just fixed a nightmare by simply swapping to a mech with 10T jockey wheels as opposed to 13T.
Liked the joke above about "tension wheels" and just having to search for the right thing.
What do you mean it wasn't a joke. :P
So how come jockey wheels used to be 10T in the 1990s on MTB mechs and now they are 13T? Why do that! It wasn't broken! It potentially introduces new problems. The new Alivio M410 mech has 13T. The upper jockey wheel on the 2300 road mech does have 11T, while the bottom wheel has 13T. A Deore XT M730 MTB mech from the early 1990s (that can also cope with a 34T cassette sprocket) has 10T upper and lower.
Has the industry been messing about when there's no need to? I can relate to that.
0 -
More gears,narrower chains,better pick up with more teeth?Just speculating.Whats the solution? Just pedal faster you baby.
Summer B,man Team Carbon LE#222
Winter Alan Top Cross
All rounder Spec. Allez.0 -
nevman wrote:More gears,narrower chains,better pick up with more teeth?Just speculating.
I dunno but I haven't noticed any difference in shifting with a mech that has 10T jockey wheels.
Then again the 13T one is an Alivio M410 (2011) and the 10T one on now is a Deore XT M730 (1992).
Whereabouts in the hierarchy is Alivio? Is it lower than 105 road? I mean Alivio isn't even a serious thing is it?
For MTB I thought it went something like Tourney > Acera > Altus > Alivio > SLX > XT > XTR. So Alivio is like the best of the crap stuff. Road equipment you have 105 > Ultegra > Dura-Ace well I guess that roughly matches up with SLX > XT > XTR. Everything else is either crap, or very crap. :twisted: 0
