chain dropping at speed

danlightbulb
danlightbulb Posts: 701
edited May 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
I've started going faster over rutted descents, and all the shaking around is causing my chain to drop. I have it on the middle ring at the front and mid range at the back. Its tending to drop to the granny on the front and sometimes I can recover without stopping although today it bounced a bit further and I had to stop to pop it back on.

I just wondered if there was anything I could do about it? I have a rockrider 8.1 hardtail with a triple up front and sram x7 rear mech. Cant afford to replace any parts. Its still performing well overall, just cos I'm going faster I'm getting more chain slap and more frequent dropped chains.

Thanks

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    chose better lines. and pedal occasionally to keep the chain back up on the middle ring.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • levolon
    levolon Posts: 78
    as you cant upgrade atm to a better set up do as said above and pedal more to keep the chain moving

    if however you could stretch to £16 -£20 odd you could fit this http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=475 or this if you have a external BB http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=475

    yes it means going single ring but losing that big ring means no more big gashes down your legs when you go upside down !! which you may do soon as your getting more adventurous..


    your main prob is a week mech as it just cant cope so the real fix is going to cost if you want it trouble free..
  • felix.london
    felix.london Posts: 4,067
    On fast, rough descents put it on the middle ring front and one of the biggest sprockets at the back
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

    Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build

    Trek Session 8
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Check the chain is the right length (big/big and the rear mech should be stretched right forward - easy to judge from a photo)

    Check the front mech is at the right height (only just clears the teeth on the largest ring)
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    felix.london wrote:
    On fast, rough descents put it on the middle ring front and one of the biggest sprockets at the back
    This
    I don't do smileys.

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  • danlightbulb
    danlightbulb Posts: 701
    cooldad wrote:
    felix.london wrote:
    On fast, rough descents put it on the middle ring front and one of the biggest sprockets at the back
    This

    I go middle ring at the front. However if I go bigger at the back I tend to find myself in too low a gear and the pedals have no feel (just spin - you know what I mean). Maybe I should take it up to the big ring front?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Looked at chain length and mech adjustment yet?
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • danlightbulb
    danlightbulb Posts: 701
    The Beginner wrote:
    Looked at chain length and mech adjustment yet?

    Yes both fine. I tried to avoid rutts on my last outing and it seemed better. Just means riding on the side of the trail instead of where the rutts are in the middle, not too bad.

    Also had a go on my mates zesty with a clutch mech, ooh it was smooth. Need to save....

    It was rather a strange feeling to ride it though, felt like the front wheel was waaay out front, and needed some effort to turn too. Guess I'm used to the twitchy short travel hardtail.

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