Remote lockout won't respond

echowitch

My remote lockout on my RockShox Reba 29'er fork is turning in to a real pain for me at the moment. My LBS had a look at it and replaced the cable and said "it's the internals" which I presume translates as "don't ask me I don't know air forks."

When I press the lever to unlock the fork it works ok. However when I press the button to lock it, it doesn't respond. I have to forcibly move the unit around on the top of the fork. Im probably going to have to take it to Evan's who do know air forks but thought I'd ask here if anyone knows what could be the cause ?

It seems to keep happening Normally after I've done a half day at Swinley.

ilovedirt

Nowt to do with it being air, problem is on the damping side, totally separate to the (air) spring side.
Sounds to me like your cable could be full of crap, has the cable been changed?
That, or the return spring in the top cap is broken, but I've never had a remote lockout fork, so I couldn't be sure, but it sounds like 1 of those two issues. Both a pretty easy fix by the sounds of it.

angry_bird

If you can push the compression dial round by hand and it locks it out, and it unlocks fine and the dial springs back to place nicely then it sounds like the fork is working as it should do really

echowitch wrote:

When I press the lever to unlock the fork it works ok. However when I press the button to lock it, it doesn't respond. I have to forcibly move the unit around on the top of the fork. Im probably going to have to take it to Evan's who do know air forks but thought I'd ask here if anyone knows what could be the cause ?

.

What remote is it, poploc or pushloc? Guessing poploc as you say lever and button and AFAIK pushloc just has a single button. Just your wording has me wondering a bit as I'd say the "button" on a poploc unlocks it, and the "lever" that moves up and down locks it out.

If it's really not locking out by remote then it could be due to a lack of sufficient tension in the cable... or maybe related to crap in the cable/lever/crown assembly, but really, when you push the lever to lock it out I'd think you should be able to overcome the resistance from all the cable related gunk and you'd notice the problem more when unlocking.

echowitch

Hi, it is a poploc

http://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/poploc

The lever depresses fine, but when pressing the small button it has no tension at all to come back and just sites there. Nothing happens at the top of the fork and I have to manually turn it. The cable was replaced by my LBS yesterday but due to a lack of knowledge about remotes they couldn't do anything more. Plus it was almost 4pm and they wanted to go home. I'll take it to Evans and sweet talk the guys there.

Mind you Im sure the LBS have ballsed it up as they noted when they set it up originally 6 weeks ago that it was "working in reverse".

angry_bird

OK, so detach the cable from the crown, just need to undo a little grub screw. Then turn the dial on the crown to the locked out position, let go, if it springs back and returns fine then the fork is fine and the problem is with the remote/cable, most likely dirt/grime. If it doesn't then it sounds like the spring has gone in the fork, fixing that will depend how happy you are taking your forks apart a little bit or if you'd rather get Evans to do it.

suspended

echowitch wrote:

Hi, it is a poploc

http://www.sram.com/rockshox/products/poploc

The lever depresses fine, but when pressing the small button it has no tension at all to come back and just sites there. Nothing happens at the top of the fork and I have to manually turn it. The cable was replaced by my LBS yesterday but due to a lack of knowledge about remotes they couldn't do anything more. Plus it was almost 4pm and they wanted to go home. I'll take it to Evans and sweet talk the guys there.

Mind you Im sure the LBS have ballsed it up as they noted when they set it up originally 6 weeks ago that it was "working in reverse".

If the cable's been replaced but you're still having trouble with the spool on top of the leg not returning to it's off position then the spring inside the Motion Control (MoCo) damper is almost certainly the problem. What can happen is that the bottom end of the spring pops out of a locating hole inside the damper and can no longer tension anything. Easy to fix because you don't need to take the forks apart or even release pressure in the air-spring leg. With your bike upright, remove the cable from the spool on top of the leg, followed by the spool itself. Unscrew the top cap of the damper leg and then carefully pull the damper out of the leg - it helps to twist slowly as you do so. Let the oil coating the damper drip bag into the open leg and then place a wad of lint-free cloth over the open leg so no cr*p gets into it. Don't knock your bike over!!!!

The black aluminium top cap is screwed onto the body of the damper with left hand thread, so loosen it by twisting clockwise. Once it's unscrewed, give a firm pull to remove the top cap, then remove the shaft with its spring. Once it's off the shaft, you should be able to give the spring a bit of a stretch (not too much, just to lengthen it by 3-4mm), then slide it back onto the shaft.Stretching the spring helps to ensure that it won't pop out again at some time in future. Insert the silver shaft into its position in the damper, allowing the spring's long end to slip into its hole in the damper. Now rotate the shaft one full turn against the tension of the spring and allow the plastic shaft top assembly to "hook" into the recess in the top of the damper. Hold it there and carefully fit the aluminium cap. You'll figure out a way of keeping the spring in its place and slip the cap over after one or two tries - patience is a virtue here! Screw the cap back on, remembering that it tightens anticlockwise as you look down on the top cap. Check to see whether the shaft now snaps back after rotating and releasing it. If it does, it's correctly reassembled. Now you simply twist the damper plus top cap gently back into the top of the fork leg and tighten down the top cap (clockwise this time). Replace the spool, refit the cable and, hopefully, you're good to go. Good luck!

CUBEical

this is the same problem i have so thanks fore the advice

echowitch

Quick update - I took it to Evans and one of their guys had a look. They've decided to send it off to SRAM for fixing as it's basically fecked. It is only 4 weeks old so there's something fundamentally wrong with it, so they felt it best to send it to SRAM and get them to fix or replace it.

YateleyChap

I suffered exactly the same issue with the Poploc remote on my 2013 Reba's. It's definitely not a problem with the fork. I've come to the conclusion that the Poploc internal spring mechanism isn't the greatest, but fortunately a few drops of lube seems to have sorted it out...