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3x10 wanting to go 2x10

concordeconcorde Posts: 1,111
edited April 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
What are my options?

22/32/44 up front and 11-36 on the back.

I pretty much always climb in middle ring at front and largest cog on the back then when I'm struggling I drop into the granny and stay in largest at the back. Coming down I use middle at front and most of the cassette. Never use big ring at front unless on fire road but I don't want it.

What are my options? Was thinking just ditch big ring and adjust H screw?

Dropping chain lately so maybe shorten it too or get a tensioner?

Cheers
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Posts

  • supersonicsupersonic Posts: 82,708 Lives Here
    Might as well just do that, 32/22.
  • concordeconcorde Posts: 1,111
    Cheers, how many links would I take out of my chain?
  • bennett_346bennett_346 Posts: 5,092
    None.
  • concordeconcorde Posts: 1,111
    None.

    Why none?
  • bennett_346bennett_346 Posts: 5,092
    If it was sized correctly before it will still be sized correctly when you take the big ring off.

    Unless it was sized wrong before then shame on you :)
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 81,520 Lives Here
    If it was sized correctly before it will still be sized correctly when you take the big ring off.

    Unless it was sized wrong before then shame on you :)
    wrong.

    it will need shortening.

    same method as normal around the two big cogs with out the mech. check for travel if a fully. and add 1 full link 2 segments.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • bennett_346bennett_346 Posts: 5,092
    It won't, if it worked in the middle ring before, it will still work in the middle ring now. Unless it is dropping because it is already too long.
  • nicklousenicklouse Posts: 81,520 Lives Here
    It won't, if it worked in the middle ring before, it will still work in the middle ring now. Unless it is dropping because it is already too long.
    chain will be too long. needs shortening.

    yes it will still work but you are making everything work harder than you need.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • concordeconcorde Posts: 1,111
    It wasn't too long before but is dropping so taking links out will reduce its likelihood of dropping yeah?
  • 97th choice97th choice Posts: 2,305
    You don't have to drop the chain length but it will help, you can also change to a mid length cage on the rear mech if you end up upgrading it.
    Too-ra-loo-ra, too-ra-loo-rye, aye

    Giant Trance
    Radon ZR 27.5 Race
    Btwin Alur700
    Merida CX500
  • felix.londonfelix.london Posts: 4,067
    Of course you need to shorten the chain. It will be too long otherwise!

    Just measure it in the usual way; Out of mechs, round the biggest ring (middle) and biggest sprocket at the back. Add 2 links.
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

    Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build

    Trek Session 8
  • The RookieThe Rookie Posts: 27,747
    Ignore the sole voice of unreasoning and shorten the chain, better control, less slap and less weight and a spare section for your bag.

    It will work at the length it is now, but it won't work as well as it could.

    You'll need shorter (single speed) chainring bolts for the single ring on the outer spider.
  • concordeconcorde Posts: 1,111
    Okey dokey... Shorten it I shall. And buy some bolts! :-)

    Cheers
  • njee20njee20 Posts: 9,613
    Of course you need to shorten the chain. It will be too long otherwise!

    It won't be too long, the shortest chain is required in small/small, and you're not changing that combo.

    However... it makes sense to shorten the chain, because you won't need as much in your new big/big.
  • concordeconcorde Posts: 1,111
    That's what I'm thinking. It won't be too long as effectively removing the big ring doesn't effect as I don't even use it. Only doing it so that I can shorten the chain. if I shortened it with the big ring still on then I may have some trouble If I tried to shift into big ring. But it makes sense as shortening it will reduce likelihood of it dropping.
  • Chunkers1980Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Don't shorten it without removing a ring. It also has nothing to do with dropping of the chain
  • felix.londonfelix.london Posts: 4,067
    When the chain was put on the bike (in it's 3x10 config) it would have or at least should have been measured big ring to big ring - the chain is the correct length

    If you remove a your big ring the chain will no longer be the correct length i.e it will be too long :roll:

    It would obviously work but why would you not want your bike to have the optimum set-up?
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

    Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build

    Trek Session 8
  • bennett_346bennett_346 Posts: 5,092
    Explain to me the difference it makes.
  • supersonicsupersonic Posts: 82,708 Lives Here
    Less chain slap, lighter weight, option to run a shorter cage rear mech.
  • felix.londonfelix.london Posts: 4,067
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - if this applies...

    ...then "Why have that extra chain if you don't need it?" applies too
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

    Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build

    Trek Session 8
  • bennett_346bennett_346 Posts: 5,092
    So so far the only reason we have came up with is it is about 20 grams lighter, and reduces chain slap (which isn't a problem as you should have a protector regardless).
  • felix.londonfelix.london Posts: 4,067
    When you put on a new chain - you measure it to fit, no? Same thing?
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

    Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build

    Trek Session 8
  • concordeconcorde Posts: 1,111
    The main reason I want to do it is will it stop me dropping the chain?

    If no it's pointless. I'm not bothered about 20 grams or slap as I have protector... It's purely for the purpose of not dropping the chain. if it won't help that I won't bother?

    Cheers
  • Chunkers1980Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Won't make any difference.

    Slap might even be less with a long cages the chain can be further away. Chain movement is the only thing that derails the chain and it is debatable if it makes any difference. Going 2x at a minimum I'd take some chain out.
  • supersonicsupersonic Posts: 82,708 Lives Here
    So so far the only reason we have came up with is it is about 20 grams lighter, and reduces chain slap (which isn't a problem as you should have a protector regardless).

    Why have it too long? You measure big/big plus 2. Having it too long potentially exceeds the capacity of the rear mech too (though not in this case).

    But if the OP went for a shorter cage rear mech this could happen.

    There is no good reason to keep it longer is there?
  • felix.londonfelix.london Posts: 4,067
    Went from 3x9 and often chain drops to 2x10 with GS mech and Stinger and no chain drops at all...ever

    But like sonic says...why ride with the wrong length chain?..I just don't get it?
    "Why have that extra tooth if you're not using it?" - Brian Lopes

    Votec V.SX Enduro 'Alpine Thug' 2012/2013 build

    Trek Session 8
  • bennett_346bennett_346 Posts: 5,092
    I never shortened mine and i'm yet to have it jam up and catapult me into a pit of fire.
  • 97th choice97th choice Posts: 2,305
    Then add some more links, it won't do any harm.
    Too-ra-loo-ra, too-ra-loo-rye, aye

    Giant Trance
    Radon ZR 27.5 Race
    Btwin Alur700
    Merida CX500
  • Chunkers1980Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Yes it will, different chain will most probably have different wear
  • 97th choice97th choice Posts: 2,305
    My cunning sense of irony must need recalibration.
    Too-ra-loo-ra, too-ra-loo-rye, aye

    Giant Trance
    Radon ZR 27.5 Race
    Btwin Alur700
    Merida CX500
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