lubing pivots..... i know it's that dire

blablablacksheep Posts: 1,377
edited April 2013 in Road beginners
Just a quick question, I know you need to lube the pivots on the bike, ie front/rear much ect, but what do you use?
I've been using wet lube atm, but I know some use gt85 spray.

Any thing else I can use? (Couldn't find any gt85)

PS, do you lube the springs in the hood?(or grease instead?)

London2Brighton Challange 100k!


  • bushu
    bushu Posts: 711
    Dont use sprays GT85 or WD40, most will displace the factory grease in places that usually you cant regrease well :( and copperslip on threads in my books, depends on frictional temperature or something along those lines. Chain lube is still too thin and could dilute the grease although would do a lot less damage than a spray :)
  • I don't understand tbh how it could displace the grease, unless your referring to the hoods?(and the brake springs inside)
    As front and rear mechs, along with brake pivots need to be lubed(not greased) so ?
    London2Brighton Challange 100k!
  • Bobbinogs
    Bobbinogs Posts: 4,841
    I have found the best thing to be 3in1 multioil from Wilkinsons, etc. Blinking cheap and very good. I use it on front/rear mechs and braking pivots, etc. Wet lube for chains only.

    oh, and don't forget the wire run under the BB and the inside of the rear brake cable liner.
  • Buckled_Rims
    Buckled_Rims Posts: 1,648
    There is a difference between WD40 and GT85. Both are water displacer sprays, but WD40 degreases and GT85 lubricates with PTFE. I don't like WD40 and have used it at work to degrease loads of tooling and oil based paint pen markings.

    I use GT85 on my 105 and MTB XT gears. Never noticed a problem in many years.

    I used to use thicker oils and greases, but they tend to collect dust and grit easily, that's why I use GT now - easy to clean off and less collection of crap.
    Kona Jake the Snake
    Merlin Malt 4
  • ^^ this is why I'm looking to get a spray.
    The wet lube and grease collects so much crap it's a right pain.
    Since gt 85 is PTFE surly a dry lube would suffice?
    London2Brighton Challange 100k!
  • careful
    careful Posts: 720
    I dont bother lubing them and have never had one seize, become loose or wear out in half a century of cycling.
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    careful wrote:
    I dont bother lubing them and have never had one seize, become loose or wear out in half a century of cycling.

    I'm sort of with you on this one. Although I do put a drop or two of 3 in 1 oil on pivot points after a wash job. Can't hurt, but don't know that it's a necessity.
  • simon_e
    simon_e Posts: 1,706
    I do the same as Buckled_Rims. Mech pivots and brake QRs get a tiny squirt of GT85 (any excess is removed with a rag) after washing and drying the bike. Perhaps it's not necessary, though the brake QR often feels gritty and the GT85 helps.

    I certainly wouldn't try applying grease to any of them as it would just be a dirt magnet.
    Aspire not to have more, but to be more.
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    I have had the front mech seize up after riding without mudguards on salted roads. Had to free it off with liberal quantities of WD40 then ran some chain oil in to keep it free. It was OK after that.
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    I use the tiniest drop of 3-in 1 oil on the caliper and mech pivot points and carefully wipe off any excess.
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    Well, when you look on it from the view point of a 10 year old, who has a very cheap bike and even cheaper components, they might say "well, it pedals and shifts and I've never oiled it". I've seen bunches of bikes that have not had any maintenance whatever. Rusty chains, half flat tires, loose cables, mud, crud, dirt, and grime everywhere yet they still seem to be able to move the kids around the neighborhood.

    I've said this before but it's worth repeating -

    You have two choices
    1.) If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
    2.) Fix it until it's broke.
    I think most people choose the latter.
  • Garryboy
    Garryboy Posts: 344
    Bobbinogs wrote:
    oh, and don't forget the wire run under the BB and the inside of the rear brake cable liner.

    Know the pain of not doing this from the weekend when my front Der' cable decided to snap at that very point - had worn through because I hand't lubed it in ages (c 5 months)