Driveline / Chain Issue....Slipping??

spdpug98
spdpug98 Posts: 112
edited April 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
I seem to have developed an issue with my chain / driveline and its getting progressively worse, when I was riding at the weekend and started pushing on a bit in a high gear the chain seems to slip, its like it jumps on / slips an inch or so, as the ride went on it seemed to stop.

But, i've been out this morning and its got worse, if i'm pedaling along normally its fine but as soon as I start pushing on through the pedals its starts to slip forward - can anyone offer any advice

Comments

  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Probably worn chain and/or cassette
  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    Probably worn chain and/or cassette

    +1, add bent mech/hanger to that list!
  • spdpug98
    spdpug98 Posts: 112
    Thanks, I'll start with a new chain, I know the hangers OK as I had to have it straightened a few months ago after a bit of an off!!
  • Plyphon
    Plyphon Posts: 433
    Another possible is naffed hub bearings.
  • Shackster
    Shackster Posts: 257
    If the jumping is due to a worn drivetrain then a new chain on its own won't work; it may make it jump worse, because the old stuff has all worn out together and a new chain won't mesh with the worn parts. You might have to replace the chain, cassette, and possibly the chainring(s) too, to get it working 100%, sorry. If you do this then replace the chain more frequently in future - you can use a chain wear gauge or just replace before 12 complete links measures more than 12 and 1/8 inches (measures exactly 12 inches when new; the elongation is due to wear on the rollers rather than stretching, I believe).

    However - before you spend any money make sure the indexing is correctly adjusted and cables clean and in good condition.
    2011 Canyon XC 8.0 (Monza Race Red)
    1996(?) dyna-tech titanium HT; pace RC-35's; Hope Ti Hubs etc etc
    Bianchi Road Bike
  • bartimaeus
    bartimaeus Posts: 1,812
    Shackster wrote:
    If the jumping is due to a worn drivetrain then a new chain on its own won't work; it may make it jump worse, because the old stuff has all worn out together and a new chain won't mesh with the worn parts.
    This...

    I snapped a chain. The replacement chain slipped badly - which was when I realised I was running a very old cassette (2k miles) rather than the cassette I thought I was using (250 miles) :oops: A new cassette did improve things, but I was still getting slip under any load. Now I have new chainrings and all is well :)

    Must get a chain checker!
    Vitus Sentier VR+ (2018) GT Grade AL 105 (2016)
    Giant Anthem X4 (2010) GT Avalanche 1.0 (2010)
    Kingley Vale and QECP Trail Collective - QECP Trail Building
  • spdpug98
    spdpug98 Posts: 112
    Looks like I'm going to be spending some £££'s on a new drivetrain, the bike is well used, I usually ride 3 times a week and always off road........and the drivetrain is the only bits that have not been replaced over the last couple of years!
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    spdpug98 wrote:
    Thanks, I'll start with a new chain, I know the hangers OK as I had to have it straightened a few months ago after a bit of an off!!
    And get a new hanger. Straightening never works well.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

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  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    I thought that too, never know though, he may be riding steel.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Fair point. I forget some people are still in the stone age.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    cooldad wrote:
    Fair point. I forget some people are still in the iron age.
    FTFY!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.