Fitting a crankset

zfleas
zfleas Posts: 22
edited April 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi,
This will probably be dead easy and a really dumb question..
Will this (http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=40496) fit onto my bike (http://www.evanscycles.com/products/spe ... 4#features)
Reading a load of stuff about octalink splines (?????) etc and getting myself confused?
Also, are they relatively easy to fit or not?
Thanks in advance :)

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    yes but get the BB sheel face by the LBS.

    you will need two different sets of tools to take the old off and to fit the new.

    All the info can be seen on Parktools.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • zfleas
    zfleas Posts: 22
    Best to take it to the LBS then?
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Probably. Facing needs to be done, but good to have the tools, but then you'll have a redundant puller and cartridge bb tool.
  • zfleas
    zfleas Posts: 22
    Ok thanks, if I buy that off CRC and take it into the LBS will they be happy to fit it or are they likely to insist I buy one of their own products?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    One of the few times I would agree in taking it to an LBS for the job, unles you have a mate with a crank puller and cartridge BB tool.

    Long term you'll want the HT2 BB tool and preload tool though.

    Probably best to ask your LBS, they'll charge for fitting the CRC one, they may charge less (or nothing) for fitting one bought from them!

    My Daughter got her HT2 Deore set for £50 from the LBS......
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • zfleas
    zfleas Posts: 22
    Thanks for the replies :) I will pop in there or give them a call either today or tomorrow. Need my front brake to be topped up with fluid too so I may as well get that done whilst I'm there!
    Cheers
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Brakes generally don't need 'topping' up. More likely pads are worn or need advancing.
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  • zfleas
    zfleas Posts: 22
    ok - going off on a tangent here (brakes)
    with my front brake, i have to pull the lever more than half way down before I start to feel and resistance on the wheel, and I cant physically pull it all the way down I would like to because the lever hits my handlebar before i can get full pressure on it. Any ideas what it might be?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Again in words that make sense please......

    You pull a lever back, not down if that helps, but right now you are contradicting yourself!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • steelo
    steelo Posts: 542
    From experience if the brake fluid reservoir is not tightly secured the fluid can seep out and therefore you will notice the 'bite' point of the brake change as you find you'll need to squeeze the lever further back to achieve the same braking.

    However, as stated earlier, the same can be experienced from worn brake pads. If there is less braking material on the pad then they will sit further away from the rotor and therefore take a more of a squeeze of the brake lever to reach the disc.

    Hope this helps.
    Specialized Rockhopper '07
    Trek Fuel EX8 '09
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    But hydro brakes self adjust, that's part of their beauty

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