Quick release YES - Quick back on NO

supermurph09

Having a bit of trouble with my rear quick release!

After hanging the bike on my maintenance stand last night, scrubbing and polishing 80 miles worth of Igloo Sportive dirt and crud from it, I put the front wheel back in about 10 seconds. Came to the rear and for 20 minutes I tried to get it on right but to no avail. I can hook it around it around the chain and get it into the drop outs just fine, but tightening up and closing the skewer produced an epic fail. So much so, that its now locked away, waiting for me to have another go tonight. 20 minutes I was out there last night.

Wanted to get it nice and flush against the chainstay but try as I might it never got in the position for me to apply a bit of pressure to close it. After 15 minutes I couldn't even get it anywhere near being properly closed. I struggled the first time I did this but then sorted it. What the hell was I doing wrong? Do others struggle? I am not very mechanically minded but should be able to get the rear back on in 30 seconds never mind have to abandon after 20 minutes!!

HELP!!

Anonymous

Sounds odd.
So is it just closing the skewer thats the problem?

You are holding the other end of skewer to tighten right?

New (lighter/colour coded) skewers needed perhaps?

nicklouse

put wheels in frame and do up,

take bike off stand and place on ground. undo and then correctly tighten the Qrs. while applying some weight to the saddle.

supermurph09

Once in the drops I tend to turn the other end 1 turn and then begin winding the lever so that hopefully when it goes tight all that should need doing is to press it closed against the chainstay. Just not happening. I may do a video tonight!

Anonymous

Its a simple cantilever action isn't it, so unless it is broken (snapped) I cannot see the problem.

gozzy

Loosen it off, then wind the nut, not the lever. The lever should only be used to open and close, not turn.

Anonymous

Just have the lever open and in the direction you want to close towards, then tighten the other side until you feel it is the correct tension to close the lever.
If the lever is to loose or too tight, fully open and adjust the other side accordingly before trying again.

supermurph09

Gozzy, Carbonator. Thanks!!

Never even considered doing it that way. That should be straight forward enough. I'll report back later.

keef66

+1 to what Nicklouse said. Do the proper adjustment once the beast is back on the ground again. Much easier to snug it into the dropouts and ensure it's central. Lever should start to tighten when it's in line with the axle, ie at 90 degrees to the axis of the bike.

Anonymous

keef66 wrote:

+1 to what Nicklouse said. Do the proper adjustment once the beast is back on the ground again. Much easier to snug it into the dropouts and ensure it's central. Lever should start to tighten when it's in line with the axle, ie at 90 degrees to the axis of the bike.

My lever would hit frame/forks if I did that. I always have it just to the side (but not so close it might scratch it.

If I tighten it when upside down I would then undo and redo up with the bike on the ground and centralised. So get the tightness correct when its less fiddly but check wheel is in fully/straight too.

keef66

"My lever would hit frame/forks if I did that"

I think you've misunderstood or I haven't explained well enough. You can spin the lever round so it will be pointing in whatever direction you want when it's closed. I have mine between chainstay and seatstay. What I was referring to is tightening the nut on the other end so that the lever starts to tighten when it's sticking straight out sideways relative to the bike, and then moves through a further 90 degrees as you close it.

supermurph09

And balance is restored to the universe! Thanks!

Anonymous

keef66 wrote:

"My lever would hit frame/forks if I did that"

I think you've misunderstood or I haven't explained well enough. You can spin the lever round so it will be pointing in whatever direction you want when it's closed. I have mine between chainstay and seatstay. What I was referring to is tightening the nut on the other end so that the lever starts to tighten when it's sticking straight out sideways relative to the bike, and then moves through a further 90 degrees as you close it.

It was probably me lol. Having one of those days.
Would be a pain to undo if it was inline with frame when closed too.

How tight does everyone do them up? One finger openable or brace with forefinger/pull with thumb or grunt and leave a red mark/dent in your thumb tight?

Bookwyse

Well done on getting the wheel back on.

Now you just need to sort the pickup arm for the speed sensor out. It should be lying alongside the chain stay not standing to attention like it is. That way it is protected, the way it is it will be vulnerable to damage.

gloomyandy

Bookwyse wrote:

Now you just need to sort the pickup arm for the speed sensor out. It should be lying alongside the chain stay not standing to attention like it is. That way it is protected, the way it is it will be vulnerable to damage.

Not always possible though. On my bike there is not sufficient clearance between the sensor arm and the magnet when the arm is tucked down alongside the chain stay.

team47b

Carbonator wrote:

keef66 wrote:

"My lever would hit frame/forks if I did that"

I think you've misunderstood or I haven't explained well enough. You can spin the lever round so it will be pointing in whatever direction you want when it's closed. I have mine between chainstay and seatstay. What I was referring to is tightening the nut on the other end so that the lever starts to tighten when it's sticking straight out sideways relative to the bike, and then moves through a further 90 degrees as you close it.

It was probably me lol. Having one of those days.
Would be a pain to undo if it was inline with frame when closed too.

How tight does everyone do them up? One finger openable or brace with forefinger/pull with thumb or grunt and leave a red mark/dent in your thumb tight?

close them with your palm and leave a dent

supermurph09

Bookwyse wrote:

Well done on getting the wheel back on.

Now you just need to sort the pickup arm for the speed sensor out. It should be lying alongside the chain stay not standing to attention like it is. That way it is protected, the way it is it will be vulnerable to damage.

Hi, could you post a picture. Not sure what you mean. Cheers

Bookwyse

Here you go

http://www.runninggps.net/wp-content/up ... -Image.jpg

http://www.cyclingtechblog.com/wp-conte ... g_3947.jpg

supermurph09

Bookwyse wrote:

Here you go

http://www.runninggps.net/wp-content/up ... -Image.jpg

http://www.cyclingtechblog.com/wp-conte ... g_3947.jpg

Cheers, I'll see if thats something I can do. Pretty sure all the materials show it how I have it. Would make sense to have it tucked in though, with the added aero I'll be looking at some KOM's in no time!

nicklouse

Supermurph09 wrote:

And balance is restored to the universe! Thanks!

that Qr is not fully closed.
the chain stay is in the way. move the lever so you can fully close it.

Anonymous

nicklouse wrote:

Supermurph09 wrote:

And balance is restored to the universe! Thanks!

that Qr is not fully closed.
the chain stay is in the way. move the lever so you can fully close it.

I thought we went over that one already with the OP
It will be hard to undo too (unless it is not very tight) as you cannot get behind the lever.

I think we need photos of the whole bike to check it over fully

Guanajuato

Bookwyse wrote:

Now you just need to sort the pickup arm for the speed sensor out. It should be lying alongside the chain stay not standing to attention like it is. That way it is protected, the way it is it will be vulnerable to damage.

:oops: I was thinking the pickup looked rather vulnerable sticking up on mine. Its just that's the way its fastened when its delivered, and how its shown in the installation diagram. Now I've seen those pictures, its so bleedin' obvious! :roll:

supermurph09

Hi, appreciate the input. Yes it is hard to undo as its hard to get behind the lever. Should the lever be in the gap between the chain stay and seat stay or pointing just below the chain stay? In all honesty I'm pretty sure it came from the shop as I have it, that's why I have it like that.

As for the sensor, I'll fiddle with that too!

Edit: http://www.cube.eu/en/road/road-race/agree-gtc-race/ I can see from the pics on here where it needs to be. Thanks for the heads up.

Wirral_paul

Supermurph09 wrote:

Edit: http://www.cube.eu/en/road/road-race/agree-gtc-race/ I can see from the pics on here where it needs to be. Thanks for the heads up.

Ignore that pic - its more for photographic purposes that they tried (and failed) to hide it behind the chainstay. Either between the chainstay and seatstay, or behind the seatstay pointing up will make life much easier. Its not an exact science as to where it goes - just make your life easier and allow you to fully close it over the cam so it cant come undone. The pro mechanics will ALWAYS set it in the same place as it helps make a wheel change as fast as possible.

desweller

I tend to point my QR levers backwards so they don't come undone if they snag on something. Not very likely on a roadie, granted.

supermurph09

DesWeller wrote:

I tend to point my QR levers backwards so they don't come undone if they snag on something. Not very likely on a roadie, granted.

I understand that choice is not good when riding in a group as another riders wheel could hook onto it?

desweller

Supermurph09 wrote:

DesWeller wrote:

I tend to point my QR levers backwards so they don't come undone if they snag on something. Not very likely on a roadie, granted.

I understand that choice is not good when riding in a group as another riders wheel could hook onto it?

Perhaps. I'd be pretty uncomfortable with anyone getting that close anyway. Kind of closes down your options for dodging potholes!

LittlePlums

Quick tip for you:

If you apply the brake whilst you engage the QR lever, you will ensure that your wheel is sitting central.

NewTTer

Bookwyse wrote:

Well done on getting the wheel back on.

Now you just need to sort the pickup arm for the speed sensor out. It should be lying alongside the chain stay not standing to attention like it is. That way it is protected, the way it is it will be vulnerable to damage.

OP ignore this, it is total nonsense, the unit is designed so it can be positioned to get the correct spacing from the magnet, it is quite common for them to be positioned as you have yours. If there is anything hanging around that area likely to damage it, it is going to take your spokes out too!

More importantly read Nicks post above and get you QR lever shut properly before the wheel falls out! Position the lever in the V formed by the chain stay and the frame

jgsi

You really oughtta flip that GSC 10 onto the underside and close up the speed sensor arm.. just saying like , it could get flipped into the spokes ...



you can just see mine

supermurph09

Seems to be conflicting opinion about the speed sensor??