Rear Hydraulic Brake And Rear Rim Help

R0M
R0M Posts: 16
edited April 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi

First off, i really hope i chose the right section. I have a Boardman Urban MTB, which is basically the same as the HT Team / R but with Carbon forks.

Basically i has knocked off by a van and want to get it usable again while i wait for solicitors to get my case settled.

Ive put a new rear hanger on as that snapped, a new rear disc, as it was bent.

The rim is a Mavic XM317, and its buckled pretty badly. Halfords guy (has same bike, seems to know his stuff, very helpful etc) said he couldnt get the kick out of it. It was impacted kind of sideways, as the bike landed, so not the same impact as potholes etc.

Ive found a 28 hole rim but pretty sure mine are 32. Ill check when im at work tom. Ive read its possible, but often not worth the hassle / frowned upon.
I cant seem to find a 32, and complete wheels are triple the price.

Eventually the bike will be replaced, and either sold, or given to my gf. I dont want to spend a fortune on new wheels, i was perfectly happy with current ones.
What would be my best option, repair, replace, new, used etc. Its 10spd rear, disc brake.

Onto next issue. The rear brake is now useless, lever travels really far, it works, but doesnt feel good. Also disc rubs on pad.
Its an Avid Elixir 3. It shouldnt have gotten any air in it, as system is still sealed. Do pads need centering or something ? Never worked on bike disc brakes.

Thanks in advance.

Comments

  • estampida
    estampida Posts: 1,008
    https://www.google.co.uk/shopping/produ ... CFkQ8wIwAA

    the rim is "twisted" so you can never get it straight, replace, and will need new spokes as the wheel has had a massive impact

    get a real bike shop to look at your brake if you don't fancy doing it yourself

    halfords is best avoided for things like a brake bleed and so on
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    By the time you've bought a rim and spokes, and had a wheel built, assuming you are not planning on building it yourself, you're probably better off buying a wheel.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • R0M
    R0M Posts: 16
    Thanks

    I had planned on building the wheel, but expected it to need truing properly.
    I've not built one, but had a little Google.
    I rebuild engines and gearboxes as my job, so I can do it once I know how kind of thing.

    I've found a new rear for £60, how does my cassette speed affect my choice? Or do they just swap over.

    Also found some used wheels, mainly fronts, that I assume I could strip for the rim and spokes.

    So the brakes need bleeding you think? On car systems, unless a pipe or caliper etc has been removed, they wouldn't get air in the system.
    But this is a bike with a sealed system that I know little about.

    No way of bleeding it without a syringe kit thing? I have ample 5.1, tools, pressure bleeder, and can probably inject the fluid, with a generic syringe I have if that would work.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Just built my first 2 wheels (well rimswaps) and it's a doddle, it really was....easier than truing a badly out wheel, As it's temporary I'd use the existing spokes and just replace any that are damaged, took me about 2 hours per wheel, found they went a little out after leaving overnight and then returued the next morning, no issues since.

    The freehub for 8/9/10 speed is the same, some older wheels had a narrower 7speed only freehub but they are pretty rare and I doubt anyone makes them anymore.

    The bike brakes are sealed and shouldn't need bleeding, putting a bike upside down and pulling the levers can mess with the brakes for a bit...push the pads all the way back, store upright for a few days, centre the caliper and try, you may need to advance the pads (google it)....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • R0M
    R0M Posts: 16
    Thanks

    Centering the rear caliper fixed it.

    I'm now down to the wheel issue.

    Found a rear built for 90, a pair built for 110 (then sell front to recoup some cost?) or a rim for 32, or try and find a used wheel.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Just get a similar used rim and fit it.

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=49013 at 440g it's only a little heavier than your 317, or lighter for a bit more http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=76090 you'll need to check the ERD (Effectiv rim diameter) is similar enough to use your spokes.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.