Stem bolt threaded

ghorswill
ghorswill Posts: 98
edited April 2013 in Workshop
I've just fitted a stem I brought off eBay and one of the threads in the stem for the handlebar bolts appears to be slightly threaded. It's holding the bar bolts in place just but I don't want to tighten it now as I think it will completely thread it. Anyone got any ideas what I should do? Should I use some locktite blue.

FYI it a FSA OS99 stem on some FSA Carbon Pro bars.

I've brought some Tacx carbon assembly compound as the first time I tried to ride after fitting the bars slipped down when I tried to sit on the hoods. I don't have a torque wrench and hence didn't want to over tighten the bolts?

Thanks in advance
2010 Specialised Sirrus Pro (drop bar conversion)
1993 Specialised Rockhopper A1
Voodoo Limba - for out with the kids

Comments

  • bernithebiker
    bernithebiker Posts: 4,148
    I would take the bolt out and run a tap through the hole, that should clean/straighten the thread. Then use a new bolt.

    You can buy taps quite cheaply if you're only using them once or twice in alloy.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    bolt holes should be threaded!

    you mean stripped or damaged?

    if the thread is damaged it can not do the job it is meant to do.

    have it looked and by some one who knows.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • freezing77
    freezing77 Posts: 731
    nicklouse wrote:
    bolt holes should be threaded!

    you mean stripped or damaged?

    if the thread is damaged it can not do the job it is meant to do.

    have it looked and by some one who knows.

    +1
  • ghorswill
    ghorswill Posts: 98
    Sorry...yes I mean the bolt hole is stripped. The thread on the bolt is fine.
    2010 Specialised Sirrus Pro (drop bar conversion)
    1993 Specialised Rockhopper A1
    Voodoo Limba - for out with the kids
  • richiebones
    richiebones Posts: 379
    bernithebiker wrote:
    I would take the bolt out and run a tap through the hole, that should clean/straighten the thread. Then use a new bolt.

    You can buy taps quite cheaply if you're only using them once or twice in alloy.

    +1
  • ghorswill
    ghorswill Posts: 98
    Ok....local garage re-tapped the thread in the whole but first two threads are sheared. The other three bolts hold fine so I've used some locktite on all of them to hold the in place. The forth is holding but my best option is to get hold of a longer bolt which is what I'm going to do next.

    Thanks for advice
    2010 Specialised Sirrus Pro (drop bar conversion)
    1993 Specialised Rockhopper A1
    Voodoo Limba - for out with the kids
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Just out of curiosity did the Ebay seller disclose these failings in the original listing? Sounds like a lot of hassle for a second hand stem.
  • ghorswill
    ghorswill Posts: 98
    No they didn't but I'd be stuck trying to prove one way or another whether it was them or me that stripped the thread.
    I guess you pay your money and take your chance with second hand items. I'm a novice in so far as building / maintaining my bike so it's a lesson learned....I also need to get a torque wrench so I know it's not me in the future. I know I was being extra careful though so pretty sure it wasn't me.
    2010 Specialised Sirrus Pro (drop bar conversion)
    1993 Specialised Rockhopper A1
    Voodoo Limba - for out with the kids
  • crankycrank
    crankycrank Posts: 1,830
    If it's only the first two threads that are bad then a longer bolt will work fine. On a stem you never want to use the remaining bolts to make up for a weak fastener. This causes quite a bit of extra stress on the faceplate which can crack and can also cause the plate to deform gouging the handlebar on one side which also can cause a crack/break in the bar.
  • bernithebiker
    bernithebiker Posts: 4,148
    Always thread the bolts into things like this by hand, that way you cannot damage the threads if it cross-threads or is very dirty.

    Only when you're sure the bolt is nicely threaded in straight, do you reach for the allen key...!

    (Especially true for cassette lockrings; never use the tool at first, only by hand).

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