Swapping SRAM front mech with Shimano because its so stiff
small_bloke
Posts: 222
SRAM Rival front mech is very stiff, always has been from day one (3 + years)
Thinking of swapping this with a Shimano 105 5700 so shifting will be easier because of the spring tenion. I like SRAM groupset but hate the front shifting.
Will this work?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=50487
Bike is a 2010 Boardman Team Carbon race bike with SRAM rival groupset. I've tried adjusting cable tension when in the slack position (small chainring) but this hasn't helped.
Will this be relatively easy or will allignment be very difficult to get right?
Advice appreciated thanks.
Thinking of swapping this with a Shimano 105 5700 so shifting will be easier because of the spring tenion. I like SRAM groupset but hate the front shifting.
Will this work?
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=50487
Bike is a 2010 Boardman Team Carbon race bike with SRAM rival groupset. I've tried adjusting cable tension when in the slack position (small chainring) but this hasn't helped.
Will this be relatively easy or will allignment be very difficult to get right?
Advice appreciated thanks.
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I'm using SRAM Rival on my Supersix with a 105 front mech and it is perfect.0
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I have a force shfter and a CX 70 top pull front derailleur on my commuter and it's fine.
Takes a tick longer to set up the limit screws so that the Sram shifter takes up enuf cable for the rachet to drop and hold it. It wasn't at first - like the mech shifted to the big ring with less cable travel than the shifter needed to move to it's big ring position, but it's fine after minor tweaking.When a cyclist has a disagreement with a car; it's not who's right, it's who's left.0 -
I had the same bike and it just shouldn't be stiff. It should be positive, but not stiff. It might be worth getting your shifters serviced, if you have checked over the mech itself.
I didn't think you could use SRAM shifters with Shimano derailluers, due to different pull ratios. That may not apply to the front mech though.
If your Rival is still too stiff for you, could you put a weaker spring into it? That would be cheaper than a 105 mech.Boardman Elite SLR 9.2S
Boardman FS Pro0 -
Mine is fine, maybe your cable is on its way out, the derailluer needs some lube on the hinge points and/or the inner could of gouged its way into the outer maybe? Also check the route the cable takes, is it free or at an extreme angle/bend anywhere.
Might be worth replacing the inner cable at least with a new one given they cost peanuts anyway.
I bought a new inner cable for the rear derailleur last month from;
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170912309795? ... 447wt_1144
I got the Slick Stainless steel.Cheers, Stu0 -
Just check the cable routing before you chuck your FD out. Behind the cable clamp bolt on the FD is a little "nub". Your cable needs to go OVER this. If it doesn't then that'll explain the hard shifting.0
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I use Sram Red Shifters, Force Rear Mech and Ultegra Chainset & Front Mech with no problems. I much prefer Shimano Cranks & FD's but the Double Tap system of Sram shifting. It doesn't like the opposites (ie biggest cog on back with big chain ring on front) but then this shouldn't be ridden anyway. You can't use Sram shifters with Shimano Rear Mechs and vice-versa due to the different pull ratio's but it is fine to mix & match up front.0
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I don't think all of the new versions are cross compatible but when Red first came out it was quite common for people to use a stiffer Force or Shimano front mech (then SRAM beefed up the housing and of course redesigned it completely for 2013).
In this case I'm with the others. If you're finding shifting heavy I suspect it is because the cable housing is full of gunk, has a burr at one end from being cut badly or has too tight a bend.0 -
I'd just take the cable off it and try the front mech by hand - is it stiff ? Then Try pulling the lever in the cable. Its prob the cable.0
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I've just swapped my Apex FD for an Ultegra and it works perfectly. The cable pull is the same for FDs so fully compatable and much smoother, less stiff and reliable than the Apex used to be. I'm using Rival Sti shifters by the way. Before I fitted the Ultegra I tried a mate's 105 and it was that that persuaded me to buy Shimano and went for Ultegra because it was offer.Vaaru Titanium Sram Red eTap
Moda Chord with drop bars and Rival shifters - winter/do it all bike
Orbea Rise0 -
There are no problems anymore with Sram front shifting LOLI'm sorry you don't believe in miracles0
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Thanks all for your replies. I don't think its anything to do with the cabling, its always been like this. In the past I've changed my inner cables and still no change. Other bike has Shimano 105 full groupset, the front mech is very slick and smooth.
Asked a friend who upgraded his SRAM Rival to full SRAM Red groupset 2011 and he still has the same problem - stiff front mech. He thinks thats just the way SRAM design it We have identical bikes Boardman Team Carbon 2010.0 -
small_bloke wrote:Thanks all for your replies. I don't think its anything to do with the cabling, its always been like this. In the past I've changed my inner cables and still no change. Other bike has Shimano 105 full groupset, the front mech is very slick and smooth.
Asked a friend who upgraded his SRAM Rival to full SRAM Red groupset 2011 and he still has the same problem - stiff front mech. He thinks thats just the way SRAM design it We have identical bikes Boardman Team Carbon 2010.
My Rival FD was really stiff until I realised the cable wasn't routed correctly. The manual also doesn't make it clear just how it should be routed.
As above, undo the cable and see if the FD moves by hand. It should be quite firm but if it moves fine I'd still say the cable routing is to blame.0 -
I owe you a beer for this post, even if it is 8 years later.. thankspatrickf said:Just check the cable routing before you chuck your FD out. Behind the cable clamp bolt on the FD is a little "nub". Your cable needs to go OVER this. If it doesn't then that'll explain the hard shifting.
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