Advice needed from pro fettlers

paolo73
paolo73 Posts: 27
edited April 2013 in Commuting chat
I've been stripping the commute bike back and replacing brakes, shifters etc. this week, for aesthetic reasons as well as to make the cockpit a bit more comfortable and correct a series of braking/shifting issues over the winter, and I've reached a point where I need to make a call on whether to bother keeping the front mech at all.

I'd been unable to engage the small ring for a few weeks, and in replacing cables etc. I've noticed that the front derailleur is either broken or just insanely stiff, so rather than replace it or fix it I'm wondering what would happen if i just took it off and left the front double 'naked', with the inner ring essentially redundant?

You might ask why not just leave it in place but locked over the big ring? But if I'm in a 53-21 or lower at the back then the crossover would need the derailleur to be trimmed to avoid rubbing, which i can't do if it's broken.

If i just take it off is there some sort of chain catcher that I can fit direct to the frame to keep it from falling off?

Thanks for the help.

Comments

  • veronese68
    veronese68 Posts: 27,766
    It's stiff because they get all the crud in the world flung at them from both sides. It needs a really good clean, degrease and lube to get it moving again.
    Some mountain bikes use some sort of chain guide/catcher to run 1x10, no experience of them though. Sorry.
  • pitchshifter
    pitchshifter Posts: 1,476
    Have you played around with the limit screws in your attempt to fix it? You may have just reduced the movement available.

    If you leave the front mech off the chain will likely come off over bumpy surfaces. Get a new mech if its knackered, they are relatively inexpensive.
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    If you leave the front mech off the chain will likely come off over bumpy surfaces. Get a new mech if its knackered, they are relatively inexpensive.

    We managed without front mechs and chains constantly coming off in the old days of the front mechless 5 speed racer!

    I'd reiterate everything else - clean the old mech and if that fails source another for a tenner.
    Faster than a tent.......
  • tetm
    tetm Posts: 564
    If you leave the front mech off the chain will likely come off over bumpy surfaces. Get a new mech if its knackered, they are relatively inexpensive.

    This.

    Here is a band on one for a fiver posted http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-NOS-shimano-front-mechs-bottom-top-down-pull-band-on-31-8-28-6-BB-mount-low-/200910852546?pt=UK_sportsleisure_cycling_bikeparts_SR&var=&hash=item2ec73851c2. You'll probably get cheaper if you shop about and lurk on eBay.

    It's not like they're expensive or heavy.
  • paolo73
    paolo73 Posts: 27
    Thanks for all the advice, I think leaving it off would be a mistake so I'll probably just bin it and get a new one as suggested. To be honest an hour spent cleaning and degreasing sounds like more of a cost than getting a replacement!

    I've never touched the limit screws to potentially have caused the problem, so after 12yrs of abuse I think it's just ready for the big bike store in the sky....
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    paolo73 wrote:
    Thanks for all the advice, I think leaving it off would be a mistake so I'll probably just bin it and get a new one as suggested. To be honest an hour spent cleaning and degreasing sounds like more of a cost than getting a replacement!

    You drop it in a jar of degreaser for a bit, or better still, a pan of hot degreaser. After it has sat for a bit, you take it out, rinse it and refit. If that doesn't work you get a new one.

    Not sure how you get an hours work out of that - more like about 2 minutes!
    Faster than a tent.......
  • paolo73
    paolo73 Posts: 27
    Rolf F wrote:
    paolo73 wrote:
    Thanks for all the advice, I think leaving it off would be a mistake so I'll probably just bin it and get a new one as suggested. To be honest an hour spent cleaning and degreasing sounds like more of a cost than getting a replacement!

    You drop it in a jar of degreaser for a bit, or better still, a pan of hot degreaser. After it has sat for a bit, you take it out, rinse it and refit. If that doesn't work you get a new one.

    Not sure how you get an hours work out of that - more like about 2 minutes!

    58mins to go to the store and back and buy degreaser? :?
  • Ben6899
    Ben6899 Posts: 9,686
    paolo73 wrote:
    Rolf F wrote:
    paolo73 wrote:
    Thanks for all the advice, I think leaving it off would be a mistake so I'll probably just bin it and get a new one as suggested. To be honest an hour spent cleaning and degreasing sounds like more of a cost than getting a replacement!

    You drop it in a jar of degreaser for a bit, or better still, a pan of hot degreaser. After it has sat for a bit, you take it out, rinse it and refit. If that doesn't work you get a new one.

    Not sure how you get an hours work out of that - more like about 2 minutes!

    58mins to go to the store and back and buy degreaser? :?

    Got any petrol in the garage? You could use that. Or oil.

    Don't heat the petrol though!
    Ben

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  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    paolo73 wrote:
    Rolf F wrote:
    paolo73 wrote:
    Thanks for all the advice, I think leaving it off would be a mistake so I'll probably just bin it and get a new one as suggested. To be honest an hour spent cleaning and degreasing sounds like more of a cost than getting a replacement!

    You drop it in a jar of degreaser for a bit, or better still, a pan of hot degreaser. After it has sat for a bit, you take it out, rinse it and refit. If that doesn't work you get a new one.

    Not sure how you get an hours work out of that - more like about 2 minutes!

    58mins to go to the store and back and buy degreaser? :?

    The fact that you don't already have the degreaser explains a lot! :lol:
    Faster than a tent.......
  • paolo73
    paolo73 Posts: 27
    Rolf F wrote:
    The fact that you don't already have the degreaser explains a lot! :lol:

    :oops: I just ride it and then stow it, but I've learned my lesson!

    The mech is still U/S, but the ton of filth I got off the rest of the drivetrain has redistributed about 50W of my output into speed as opposed to frictional heat :arrow:
  • rjsterry
    rjsterry Posts: 29,336
    Been riding sans front derailleur for a few weeks now after one of the pivot bolts unscrewed itself on E&C roundabout, and I've dropped the chain once when the chain was in need of a clean and lube. I ride over cobbles twice a day as well, so you don't need a derailleur to keep the chain on. You do however need to keep everything clean and lubricated.
    1985 Mercian King of Mercia - work in progress (Hah! Who am I kidding?)
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    Part of the anti-growth coalition
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    My 1x9 was throwing the chain frequantly on shifts mid cassette, no bumps needed, so on my experinece something to guide the chain is a must and yes it was all clean!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • rjsterry
    rjsterry Posts: 29,336
    My 1x9 was throwing the chain frequantly on shifts mid cassette, no bumps needed, so on my experinece something to guide the chain is a must and yes it was all clean!
    One too many links in the chain? Slightly out of true chainring?
    1985 Mercian King of Mercia - work in progress (Hah! Who am I kidding?)
    Pinnacle Monzonite

    Part of the anti-growth coalition
  • rolf_f
    rolf_f Posts: 16,015
    edited April 2013
    rjsterry wrote:
    Been riding sans front derailleur for a few weeks now after one of the pivot bolts unscrewed itself on E&C roundabout, and I've dropped the chain once when the chain was in need of a clean and lube. I ride over cobbles twice a day as well, so you don't need a derailleur to keep the chain on. You do however need to keep everything clean and lubricated.

    Just stick to the middle half dozen!
    Faster than a tent.......
  • t4tomo
    t4tomo Posts: 2,643
    Rolf F wrote:
    If you leave the front mech off the chain will likely come off over bumpy surfaces. Get a new mech if its knackered, they are relatively inexpensive.

    We managed without front mechs and chains constantly coming off in the old days of the front mechless 5 speed racer!

    I'd reiterate everything else - clean the old mech and if that fails source another for a tenner.

    Fairy nuff but 1X5 had much straighter chainlines than 1x 9/10, escpecially hwen that 1 is an offcentred half of a compact
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  • rjsterry
    rjsterry Posts: 29,336
    edited April 2013
    t4tomo wrote:
    Rolf F wrote:
    If you leave the front mech off the chain will likely come off over bumpy surfaces. Get a new mech if its knackered, they are relatively inexpensive.

    We managed without front mechs and chains constantly coming off in the old days of the front mechless 5 speed racer!

    I'd reiterate everything else - clean the old mech and if that fails source another for a tenner.

    Fairy nuff but 1X5 had much straighter chainlines than 1x 9/10, escpecially hwen that 1 is an offcentred half of a compact
    True. I only use about half of my current 1x7, just as I wouldn't cross the chain if I had both rings up front.
    1985 Mercian King of Mercia - work in progress (Hah! Who am I kidding?)
    Pinnacle Monzonite

    Part of the anti-growth coalition
  • fossyant
    fossyant Posts: 2,549
    A mate of mine killed his front XT mech over one winter by not bothering with any maintenance. Ended up buying new. I would remove the mech and soak the mech in degreaser or WD40 and work the shifter. Tey are simple mechanisms and I'd think its rusted up. Over winter it's worth a regular quick squirt with WD or GT85