Avid bleeding tip

ilovedirt

Recently, after three attempts to bleed my elixirs the way that the avid/pinkbike etc instructions say to, with no success, a mate of mine told me to try bleeding them like car brakes, as that's what worked for his. For those that aren't familiar, put a half full syringe on the lever, one with just a little fluid on the caliper, and then close the clip on the lever syringe, leaving the caliper one open. Squeeze the lever all the way, while still depressed, close the caliper syringe clip, open the lever syringe clip and gently push the fluid into the lever. I took the brake off the bike to do it, and repeated the steps a few times, holding the caliper above the lever when I squeezed the lever.

It's worked better than anything else for me, so I thought I'd share. I'd never heard of anyone else mention doing it that way before.

coursemyhorse

Some clear step by step instructions with the state of each syringe, syringe clip, syringe plunger, lever position in every step would be good. I can't really work out what you are saying above as you have missed bits out.

apreading

Aye - I cant work out what you are describing either. Sounds to me like you will be pushing air in the caliper end?

The Avid way seems simple enough...

nicklouse

The Avid way isthmus only way I have ever needed.

Bet removing the brake from the bike is what actually fixed your bleed issue.

Most people just don't cycle the fluid through enough or leave air trapped in there due to "high" points.

oxocube1

This is the method i have always used and is successful every time.

stubs

I found the best bleeding method for Avids was to take the bleeding things off and throw the bleeding things as far as I could.

I bought a bleed kit off epic bleed solutions and used there instructions which were nice and simple to follow

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Epic-Avid-Bleed-Kit-DOT-5-1-Fluid-Juicy-3-4-5-7-Elixir-1-3-5-7-R-CR-Code-/171007048948?pt=UK_Spots_Leisure_Cycling_Tools_RepairKits&hash=item27d0d07cf4

Still didnt sort the brake out though still had problems with inconsistent bite point.

The Rookie

Which probably had more to do with you not advancing the pads than anything to do with you bleeding them, to many people try and fix a bit point issue with yet more bleeding - doesn't work.

ilovedirt

nicklouse wrote:

The Avid way isthmus only way I have ever needed.

Bet removing the brake from the bike is what actually fixed your bleed issue.

Most people just don't cycle the fluid through enough or leave air trapped in there due to "high" points.

I took it off and moved it about a fair bit when i followed the avid bleed instructions - no joy.

As for my instructions, not sure how i can make them simpler...

mrmonkfinger

to me the opening post sounds like a way to do a quick bleed on just the calliper?

which is fine and all that, but:

Most people just don't cycle the fluid through enough or leave air trapped in there due to "high" points

steviecapt

that solution looks like you would still have air left in the system, taking the brake off the bike probably sorted it though, these are my tips for avid brakes always works for me, always degass the fluid in the shringes take at least 2mins each, when pushing the fluid through the caliper and lever make sure you get all the bubbles out by pulling back on the shringes and pressing the brake levers slightly, at least 10 times each end, when using new brake pads i dont run in the pads i take some fine sand paper gently rub the rotors then take the new pads lay flat on the sand paper rub off the surface of the pad, this gets rid of all the surface film, ive found this works better than running in the pads, after a few hard brakes on trhe bike and they will be fine and no squealing, also using sand paper on the pads and rotors refreshes old pads, ive never needed brake cleaning fluid, saves money aswell win win, ps i always leave the pads in when bleeding the brakes makes life alot easier, so long as you dont drip fluid on the pads

stubs

The Beginner wrote:

Which probably had more to do with you not advancing the pads than anything to do with you bleeding them, to many people try and fix a bit point issue with yet more bleeding - doesn't work.

No it was more to do with Avids crap manufacturing that left machining marks inside the master cylinder and swarf inside the threads of the adjuster barrel.