A ratio to make my life easier...
jmz-x
Posts: 13
I've just bought a new bike (2nd hand) and its come with a Dura Ace 53/39 on the front and 11-28 on the back. I went to the lake district over Easter and although I got up the bigs climbs (Honister Pass et al) I was 'A' - well behind the others who had compacts and 'B' - shattered by the top too! The plan is to use the bike for Ironman France in June so I'm wanting to make my riding as easy and energy conserving as possible as opposed to fast, so now wanting to get a compact.
My question is will getting a compact set up (50 /34) still work effectively with the rear cogs i have (11,12,13,14,15,17,19,24,28) or do I need to replace them too? I've got a feeling being in 34 - 28 will be too easy and as such pointless!
Ideally I'll revert back to the standard set up post IM race hence wanting to keep spending down by just having to buy the crankset, prob a FSA or 105 at that!
cheers!
My question is will getting a compact set up (50 /34) still work effectively with the rear cogs i have (11,12,13,14,15,17,19,24,28) or do I need to replace them too? I've got a feeling being in 34 - 28 will be too easy and as such pointless!
Ideally I'll revert back to the standard set up post IM race hence wanting to keep spending down by just having to buy the crankset, prob a FSA or 105 at that!
cheers!
It's meant to hurt!
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Comments
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Why given that your ride companions are faster and less tired than you with their compacts would you not want to switch to a compact permanently?
34 - 28 is a very viable gear.Jibbering Sports Stuff: http://jibbering.com/sports/0 -
compact will be fine and you'll thank yourself for switching.0
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your 39/28 is about the same as a 34/24 , so the 28 would deffo be your bail out gear - and as said above you'll welcome it at times with open arms.The dissenter is every human being at those moments of his life when he resigns
momentarily from the herd and thinks for himself.0 -
ah all sounding good then. Was worried after reading problems with chain length, chain crossing and clunky gears with some crank and cassette set ups. but if I can just replace the crank then happy days. Suppose I can adapt the cassette if things get too easy.
@jibberjim reason I was going to go back to the standard afterward was on the flats and downhills I was smashing the guys I was with which made up for loosing out on the hills! however I may get swayed....never know!It's meant to hurt!0 -
I think that unless you are a whippet racer, 50/34 11/28 is the way to go0
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There's nothing in the Ironman Nice profile that suggests you'll need anything lower than a 39/28. You will need the 53/11 though...English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0
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I've got 34/50 with 11sp 12-27...use the lowest gear quite often and glad of it.
I don't understand those who say they "need" a 53/11 top gear, I hardly out pedal my 50/12 and only on long, steep decents when its not worth pedelling anyway...just tuck in and coast approaching 40mph.
As for having a low gear, I don't think you can have a gear that is too low. Even a 1:1 gear at 90 rpm cadence is still moving you.WyndyMilla Massive Attack | Rourke 953 | Condor Italia 531 Pro | Boardman CX Pro | DT Swiss RR440 Tubeless Wheels
Find me on Strava0 -
Just did a week in Majorca with a compact and 11-28. Spent 20% of my time in 50/11 wishing I had swapped for my standard chainset and the lowest gear I used all week was 34/21 (end of Sa Calobra). The guys in 53/12 were wishing for that 11 sprocket as well...English Cycles V3 | Cervelo P5 | Cervelo T4 | Trek Domane Koppenberg0