Seized hub chewed up my drop outs

Initialised
Initialised Posts: 3,047
edited April 2013 in The workshop
So last week my rear hub seized up, QR skewer became the axle and the axle chewed into the drop out so the wheel now won't sit where it should.

I've seen similar repairs on the drive side where the frame is cut to take a replaceable hangar but in this case the damage is on both sides in this case.

So can it be fixed and who could fix it.
I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Depends on the damage, file it 'roughly smooth' and then if a wheel will fit, good to go otherwise it's new frame time unless your repaired frame will be worth more than about £150 (the cost of the repair).
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    As I thought, not worth the cost of repair, I could get a frame and forks for less than that and a 2nd hand bike for a little more. I could try filing it down to see if it's usable as an emergency spare.

    Any advice on turning a frame or fork into a truing stand?
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Yup....
    Fork, just tape a ruler across (quality steel), use a marker pen to indicate where each side of the rim should be and true away, as you remove an 'egg' move the ruler down to just skim the top edges of the rim, so any eggness you induce is readily detected

    You can cut away the steerer, or use MTB suspension lowers to reduce weight/space.

    Frame - good dropout location is needed! Either cut off everything forward of the seat tube, or if you have robust chain or seat stays with a brace, cut that assembly away including BB shell or a piece of seat tube to traingulate the staye for stiffness, apply a ruler as per fork.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Dirty-Boy
    Dirty-Boy Posts: 47
    "Fork, just tape a ruler across (quality steel), use a marker pen to indicate where each side of the rim should be and true away, as you remove an 'egg' move the ruler down to just skim the top edges of the rim, so any eggness you induce is readily detected"

    I've also seen someone do that but with a v-brake caliper fitted including pads instead of ruler, helps keep the wheel dished correctly.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The ruler sorts your dishing just as well.....if you use V-brakes you still have to get them moved to the right dimension using a ruler in the first place!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.

Categories