Superstar rear hubs...some thoughts

The Rookie
The Rookie Posts: 27,812
edited April 2013 in MTB general
Have just fitted some new (to me) Superstar wheels with the Superlegera rear hub (with Trizoid free hub), pretty happy with them, but some thoughts come to mind.

1/ The cassette sits much closer in to the frame centre line than on any other wheel I've had on my bike, the other three all sat in a similar place, but the Superstar hub sits the cassette in by almost one whole gear (9 sp).

2/ This has a side effect in that the drive side wheel bearing sits a long way in, in fact it's just about level with the edge of the rim, while the NDS bearing sits a long way further out - guess which is going to fail first! Yes it had failed on mine while the NDS and freehub bearings are perfect and didn't need changing.

3/ I have noticed a propensity when using the lowest gears (1x9) for the chain to want to try and ride off the inboard side of the chainring as the cassette location means it runs a worse chain angle than on the other wheels I've used, chainangle is not equal (but opposite) in highest and lowest gears.

So I'm thinking of swapping a driveside spacer to the NDS (Shimano HT2 crankset) to equalise the chainangles.

Thoughts/opinions?
Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.

Comments

  • bluechair84
    bluechair84 Posts: 4,352
    Be careful the driveside crank doesn't come into contact with the stays (bearing flex in mind too) and also take into account andy linkages on the upward stroke... but... moving the chainset in sounds like it would solve tha chainline issues. Good luck!
  • bennett_346
    bennett_346 Posts: 5,029
    That sounds like it should work, i can't think of any issues unless the front mech becomes outside it's range of adjustment but it's only 2.5mm so shouldn't do.
  • ride_whenever
    ride_whenever Posts: 13,279
    It will work assuming the cranks clear the frame.

    HOWEVER...

    your knees really wont like it. I had to do this on my commuter to get the singlespeed chainline I needed and it played merry hell with my knees. Personally I'd suggest spacing the chainring in with some spacers and possibly slightly longer bolts.
  • lawman
    lawman Posts: 6,868
    I had to do this with my HD to get it to work with my chain guide and have had no problems in all honesty, knees included!! It's a bodge, but as bodges go it should be a decent one and it should work just fine.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    I'll be giving it a go, no issue with front mech as it's a 1x9 (as stated) and as the ring and guides are all crank mounted they have to move together! Annoyingly it all worked fine on my Ritcheys!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • mrmonkfinger
    mrmonkfinger Posts: 1,452
    just a thought, the hub has definitely been assembled right?
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Yep, this is a common theme from people using the Superlegera rear hub, there have been at least 2 posts about it in the last few months, including one from cube_crazy.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    viewtopic.php?f=10004&t=12910449&start=20

    Comparison pics half way down this page from CubeCrazy.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.