Giant Vector seatpost 2013
Need some help.
The spec on my 2013 vector composite seatpost claims to give an layback/ offset of either -25 or +5.
How does this work, I have taken the head apart but it only seems to assemble in one position, and if anything I want my saddle as far forward as possible, ie. +5
These seatposts seem to come with all TCR models
Any advice, or photos of your setup will be most welcome.
The spec on my 2013 vector composite seatpost claims to give an layback/ offset of either -25 or +5.
How does this work, I have taken the head apart but it only seems to assemble in one position, and if anything I want my saddle as far forward as possible, ie. +5
These seatposts seem to come with all TCR models
Any advice, or photos of your setup will be most welcome.
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Comments
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The only offset changes his seatpost gives is to slide the seat on its rails forward or backwards. Due to its shape I have not seen any alternatives for use with the TCR. Can I ask why you need the seat so far forward?0
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Sandyballs wrote:The only offset changes his seatpost gives is to slide the seat on its rails forward or backwards. Due to its shape I have not seen any alternatives for use with the TCR. Can I ask why you need the seat so far forward?
Thanks, are you saying this based on the 2013 model?
The design I believe has changed for the 2013. Why is the spec for the 2013 seatpost quoted as -25, +5 ?
The design of the head looks like it should be changeable, because it has what looks like two 'grooves' (one filled by a rubber bung) but in practice I can't see how it is done.0 -
Just checked out the 2013 model on the Giant website, it looks the same less mine had a more rounded area for angle adjustment. Please post a pic but after having to buy a replacement for my 2010 model I never saw any different models when I searched.0
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Here's a photo of the vector seatpost on a 2013 TCR:
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B6woqbNPyzP1QWJHd21lTDM2LVk/edit?pli=1
You can see that there's a rubber stopper in front of where the saddle rail clamp is. You remove this, move the lower portion of the clamp forward, swap the upper clamp round, and re-clamp.0 -
Hi, thanks for the photo. you would think that would be the case, but it doesn't work in practice. You can't reverse the top plate around though because both bolts are a different.
If you manage to do it I wouldn't mind another photo to prove me wrong. Thanks.0 -
You don't change the bolts, just unscrew them from the plate, and rotate the plate.
If you don't have any luck, when I'm back in the store tomorrow I'll swap it over for you.0 -
I just had another play with it, but still no luck. :?
Could you please confirm this works tomorrow, many thanks0 -
Apologies for the delay!
Right, you need to:
1: Fully unscrew both the bolts.
2: Remove saddle.
3: Switch rubber bung from front to back position.
4: Rotate both the bottom and top plate.
5: Replace both bolts in the position they were orignally.
6: Tighten to 8-12Nm.
Here we go:
All the parts of the clamp:
Seatpost with rubber at +25:
Seatpost with rubber changed to -5:
Clamp in place at -5:
Saddle in place at -5:
Let me know if you still have any issues, but this should be pretty easy to follow now.0 -
At Last, done! I had another go at it last night.
The reason I was confused is that I didnt realise that the chrome nut in the upper clamp was removable (as shown in the first photo above), mine was stuck fast!, in fact took a hell of a lot of forcing to get it out.
So many thanks for posting the photos, without which, I think i would have given up on it.
I needed it in the forward position in order to get my knees further forward, for bike fit purposes. I think I must have short Femurs for my height.
Many thanks again TheRealGuybrush.0 -
Bump from the dead
I saw this post on a TCR Advanced today. It seems to have the two positions described but I'm amazed they even feel the need to offer 25mm offset seatposts when the seat angle on the M/L is only 72! At just over 5'10 (with a 6'1 arm span, yes really) I thought the bike looked big, but it wasn't the top tube so much as the saddle setback - my current bike (56 top tube) has a 73.5 degree seat angle so is it a viable option to push the saddle 15mm forward to replicate my current 73.5 degre angle? Or even to change that "inner rail" position from the 25mm offset setting? If so there'd be as little as no difference between the two bikes in terms of stack and reach. I did sit on a medium but the drop would be far more than I'm used to unless I left the steerer uncut - and who wants to do that on a superlight carbon steerer?0 -
Joined the forum to post a thanks to the real guy.
I bought a giant defy home today, and felt the the shop 'fitting' wasn't best. Using measurements from my old bike, I determined that I needed to get the seat forward: this thread solved my dilemma!
Test ride tomorrow!0 -
How do u tighten the front bolt with the black edge under the front of the saddle? Do u just do it with your fingers and guess how tight it should go?
Also, how does the positioning of the saddle work, do I just need to keep the clamp somewhere along the straight part of the rail?
I've changed my saddle for a softer gel type as I find the Giant one too hard, it's got a scale 0-25mm on the rail but which part of the clamp has to stay within this scale?
Thanks0 -
To adjust the bolts, you should loosen the rear bolt with a 5mm Hex, then if you press down on the nose of the saddle, you can turn the bolt at the front with your fingers. It has a knurled edge for this reason.
If you press down on the rear of the saddle after adjusting the front bolt a little, you can simulate how level the saddle will be with the rear bolt torqued up. If you need to re-adjust the front bolt then do so, then torque the rear bolt to 8-12Nm.
With regards to where the saddle should sit along the rails, this is a personal measurement relating to fit so I can't really help there.0 -
Just like Bobinthai, I've joined this forum specifically to post a thanks to TheRealGuybrush.
I'm about to try time-trialling and since I can't justify buying a dedicated bike, have set up my Giant Defy Advanced 2 with clip-on aerobars. The bike has a Vector seatpost which the marketing blurb says can be set back 25mm or -5mm. I had no idea how to get the forward position to save my undercarriage until I read this thread.
Brilliant instructions and excellent informative pics. Superb job.0 -
TheRealGuybrush wrote:To adjust the bolts, you should loosen the rear bolt with a 5mm Hex, then if you press down on the nose of the saddle, you can turn the bolt at the front with your fingers. It has a knurled edge for this reason.
If you press down on the rear of the saddle after adjusting the front bolt a little, you can simulate how level the saddle will be with the rear bolt torqued up. If you need to re-adjust the front bolt then do so, then torque the rear bolt to 8-12Nm.
With regards to where the saddle should sit along the rails, this is a personal measurement relating to fit so I can't really help there.
Thanks for the reply, how important is that torque setting on the bolt? Can I just use an allen key and do it finger tight or should I buy a torque wrench?
Regarding the positioning of the saddle on the rails, if I find the best position means having the saddle supported at the front end of the rail, so that the saddle is as far back as it can go, is this ok?
Or is it best not to let the rear part of the saddle that takes most of the weight, overlap the 2 support parts that stick out from the bracket to support the rail?
Thanks0 -
We often see the saddles shuffle back on the rails if they're not torqued up so it's probably best to make sure it's at the correct torque. If you don't have a torque wrench, if you use a small allen key to tighten the bolt up pretty tight, you shouldn't over torque, but it should be tight enough to hold the rails in place.
With regards the positioning, you should see a max point written on the saddle rails and you wont want that to go past where the clamps end. If you've got it rammed all the way back I'd expect that to be too far. It could either start to bend your saddle rails (eventually snapping) or can create too much leverage on the seatpost causing too much pressure of the frame (causing it to crack - eventually)0 -
This thread really helped me out. I hadn't gone to my fitting yet because I don't have my pedals or shoes yet and I found the setback way far back. I could never get the plumb line from my knee to ever extend to the front of the pedal stem at +25 setback even with the seat as far forward as allowable. Now at -5, I still have my saddle all the way forward but I'm able to get my knee just over the pedal stem. As for the seat adjustment, I see there is a stop marking on seat but as the top and bottom plate is not the same length at the aft of the clamp, do you think it's okay for me to have the saddle stop line on the rails at the back edge of the top plate of the clamp? The bottom plate extends for another 2 or 3 mm. I attached a photo to show how it looks.0
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I also had the nut in the upper clamp stuck, I simply screwed the bolt in from the wrong side when it was off the saddle and it released !0
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This thread really helped me out. I hadn't gone to my fitting yet because I don't have my pedals or shoes yet and I found the setback way far back. I could never get the plumb line from my knee to ever extend to the front of the pedal stem at +25 setback even with the seat as far forward as allowable. Now at -5, I still have my saddle all the way forward but I'm able to get my knee just over the pedal stem. As for the seat adjustment, I see there is a stop marking on seat but as the top and bottom plate is not the same length at the aft of the clamp, do you think it's okay for me to have the saddle stop line on the rails at the back edge of the top plate of the clamp? The bottom plate extends for another 2 or 3 mm. I attached a photo to show how it looks.
We tend to judge the max points by going off the shorter top clamp so I would say that positioning is fine.0 -
BOOM! Thread revival :-)
Thanks for the additional instructions... I too had the same issue with the chrome nut not budging easily!
Thanks to all for the additional info.0
