Chain lube

Whufcrule
Whufcrule Posts: 131
edited April 2013 in Road beginners
What chain lube does every one use then?? Any recommendations lads using muc off wet lube at min but it seems to fling off everywhere and cover my rear wheel

Comments

  • bazzer2
    bazzer2 Posts: 189
    If it flings off you're using too much of it. Should be very sparing with it!

    I'm interested in people's opinions of wax or 'dry' lubes though. I currently use Finishline green oil, been using it for years on the mountain bike, but on my new bike it's made a hell of a mess of the chain and sprockets already.
  • Whufcrule
    Whufcrule Posts: 131
    Yeah I've got some off that as well mate and like u it just makes everything black and slimy I've ordered some off that muc off dry ceramic lube with that uv tracer dye in it so I'm hoping that be better but was just wondering what people were using
  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    Finishline ones for me. Use the wet,dry and ceraminc ones.

    Dry ones are ace, but need more re-application. They keep everything quite clean.
  • Whufcrule
    Whufcrule Posts: 131
    That sounds good to me keeping it clean so frustrating half hour cleaning the bike and chain re lube then one ride and it looks like bloody treacle on the drive chain again think ill switch to dry lube in future then does it shift just as well??
  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    not noticed any difference in shifting myself.
  • zx6man wrote:
    Finishline ones for me. Use the wet,dry and ceraminc ones.

    Dry ones are ace, but need more re-application. They keep everything quite clean.

    The finishline dry is good stuff. On my MTB it makes the drive system silent & like you say, it's also quite clean.

    I've just got a new triban 5a & I'm going to experiment with it. I want to keep the drive system as clean as poss'. The chain is pre-greased along with derailleur components. I'm going to let it run like this until it "needs" re-lubing, then I will only use finishline dry very sparingly & see how this goes. Unfortunately, on my MTB, I had already lubed with other oils before the finishline dry & so the components had already got messy.
    B'TWIN Triban 5A
    Ridgeback MX6
  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    I use it on both road and mtb, the road bike is stil spotless,not an ounce of fling anywhere.
  • thegreatdivide
    thegreatdivide Posts: 5,807
    For wet lube - apply a small drop to each link ON THE INSIDE of the chain. Spin the cranks really fast for a minute, shifting from the bottom of the cassette to the top and back again if you feel like it, then run the chain through a rag several times. After every ride run the chain through a rag. Repeat every week if it's been a wet one. You put the lube on the inside of the chain so that when you spin the cranks the lube is forced into the chain roller - not all over your bike.

    For dry lube - don't use it in the winter. It gives about as much protection as a peice of toilet paper and needs re applied if the chain gets wet. They're also IMO pretty rubbish.

    My preferences are Finishing Line Green for winter/wet bike and ProGold Prolink for the dry bike. It’s the only lube I’ll use on my Super Record drive train. It’s a thin lube free of wax and frying pan coating.
  • danlikesbikes
    danlikesbikes Posts: 3,898
    ProGold Prolink for the dry bike

    ^-^ good stuff indeed been using it for a few years now & can say that I'm yet to find anything better.
    Pain hurts much less if its topped off with beating your mates to top of a climb.
  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221
    ProGold Prolink for the dry bike

    ^-^ good stuff indeed been using it for a few years now & can say that I'm yet to find anything better.

    I know I'm echoing what I've just said in another thread - but I've just moved from Progold to Fenwicks Road Steath and won't be going back. Great stuff. Bit more fussy to apply that the Progold but lasts longer and more water resistant.
  • danlikesbikes
    danlikesbikes Posts: 3,898
    g00se wrote:
    I know I'm echoing what I've just said in another thread - but I've just moved from Progold to Fenwicks Road Steath and won't be going back. Great stuff. Bit more fussy to apply that the Progold but lasts longer and more water resistant.

    On a slight tangent have you used their foaming chain cleaner? Just interested to know how well it works
    Pain hurts much less if its topped off with beating your mates to top of a climb.
  • g00se
    g00se Posts: 2,221
    g00se wrote:
    I know I'm echoing what I've just said in another thread - but I've just moved from Progold to Fenwicks Road Steath and won't be going back. Great stuff. Bit more fussy to apply that the Progold but lasts longer and more water resistant.

    On a slight tangent have you used their foaming chain cleaner? Just interested to know how well it works

    No, I'm of the school: "If the chains staying on the bike - just wipe it. If it's coming off, then stick it in a jar of degreaser".
  • Green Oil products all round; I use the standard wet lube. Finish Line Cross Country (green) is good stuff too and you can get that everywhere; in both senses! Very thick; lives up to its name. Advice above is good - your chain doesn't need to be smothered in the stuff.
  • Either silkolene or castrol chain lube. They're motorcycle products but they seem to work for me on my bicycles.
  • andyeb
    andyeb Posts: 407
    Fenwicks wet lube here.

    Make sure you de-grease regularly and wash the de-greaser off before applying new lube - don't just let it dry-off in situ. Otherwise as soon as the chain gets wet, the de-greaser will get re-activated and the lube will wash out even quicker.

    And to re-iterate what others have said above - you *must* wipe the chain down with a rag after lubing up and running the chain through the gears a few times.
  • the_fuggler
    the_fuggler Posts: 1,228
    g00se wrote:
    I know I'm echoing what I've just said in another thread - but I've just moved from Progold to Fenwicks Road Steath and won't be going back. Great stuff. Bit more fussy to apply that the Progold but lasts longer and more water resistant.

    On a slight tangent have you used their foaming chain cleaner? Just interested to know how well it works

    I've used it - targeting the chain can be tricky. Not the easiest or most precise to apply. Seems to do a decent job once it's on there though. Probably prefer the traditional chain cleaner and degreaser method though.
    FCN 3 / 4