Sideways play in 15mm QR superstar hub

rapid_donkey

I have a GiantTrance with Mavic XM719 rims on Superstar Switch hubs.

Today, after a wash, I noticed there was a bit of lateral play in the front wheel.

The action of the hubs feels completely smooth and healthy, and the play actually seems to be in the axle sleeve as opposed to the bearing.
Using the following guide: https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B382x_6 ... edit?pli=1 I have removed the QR15 adapers and not done any more as I believe the bearings are completely fine.

Ive just been to my LBS with the front wheel and they suggested tightening up the 15mm QR locking ring on the fork. I dont believe this will help and with the wheel on the bike and everything tight, if you lift the front of the bike up the front wheel just slightly moves side to side, but everything is tight at the axle.

Any ideas?

rapid_donkey

Just found this youtube video which illustrates quite well what I am experiencing...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vG-rSG3s ... e=youtu.be

Rippedabs123

This has happened to me before, i took it down to the bike shop and they fixed it

Rippedabs123

this might help:
sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.htmlShare

Neal_

It will be the cartridge bearings (they're not cup and cone.


I got a full front and rear set for £35 from Katec/Keasea on ebay (they were EZO bearings) and they're all running smooth 9 months later, in fact I recently picked the seals off the bearings I could reach to check them and they were all uncontaminated proving the seals are working. Cheap bearings have poor tollerances but more importantly poor seals so get SKF, INA, FAG, EZO (from Katec)
This is how you change the front bearings, the rear are easy and you don't need special tools...
Pull the end cap adapters off which will leave the bearings and the inner half of the end caps still in place. Using a drift/screwdriver/socket extension etc and hammer knock out a bearing and end cap still in the hub by pushing the spacer between the bearings down to compress the o-ring so you can get the drift on the edge of the bearing then do the same for the other bearing. It's best to press the bearings in place but I used an old bearing on top of the new bearing and carefully knocked it in with a hammer, even if you do use a press make sure you push on the outer race of the bearing as applying too much force to the inner race will damage them. Make sure all the spacers and end caps go in with the o-rings seated correctly which can be a bit tricky if the o-rings have magically grown like mine had.
http://db.tt/D3vUOJEb

http://db.tt/2vZUIP8s

http://www.youtube.com/user/Milanslav

http://www.novatec.com.tw/novatec/engli ... hp?sid=280

http://www.novatec.com.tw/novatec/engli ... hp?sid=278

rapid_donkey

Thankyou for the replies.

I took the wheel to another bike shop and left it with them. They took both bearings out and one of them was knackered so they replaced it.

I have the wheel back on the bike and it is perfect now. Next time I get any play I will replace both the bearings though.

Cheers.