Superstar Switch Evo Hub End Caps

Greer_

Can anyone tell me how to identify the end caps I have? I ordered QR adaptors ... but have a funny feeling now that I have 10mm thru axle adaptors ....

I've always had play in my rear hub, since I ordered the wheels (January), and the wheels were sent back a week after I received them to be trued and looked at (bad build). When I got them back, the build was fine, but there was still play, which SS wouldn't do anything about. I was looking at the wheel again there now, and noticed the end caps have cone spanner notches on them, nowhere for a 5mm allen key. 5mm allen keys are meant to fit in the QR end caps, cone spanners are used for the thru axle end caps. Is it possible the wrong end caps were fitted from day 1 and I never noticed? (bit more info/pics in my build thread on the last page - here.)

I'm really confused, so apologies if I'm wrong, I'd rather it was just the bearings that are gone! No amount of googling can explain 10mm thru axles to me either.

The Rookie

When you say play, with the wheel out can you feel play twixt axle and hub, or is it play between axle and frame?

If it's the former the adaptors are irrelevant.

Not sure which hubs have cone flats and which use allen keys, everyone told me my QR caps had flats but they have allen slots.

Those look like QR as I can't see a 10mm axle going through that hole!
http://clee-cycles.co.uk/esite/P18302/product

As you have no width restriction, you don't need cone spanners, just any spanner of the right size.

What I'd do
1/ Check if play is between axle and hub or axle and frame
if it's axle and hub
2/ try and tighten caps
3/ If that doesn't work, remove caps (Mine needed an 8mm allen to hold the axle after the first cap comes off).
4/ Try and drift bearings in tighter, using a suitable socket and hammer dirst on the OUTER race.
5/ If you still have play, discuss with SS OR remove one bearing and try and find a washer as a spacer to elminate play.

If the sizing is correct, the shoulders on the axle should be 'just' wider than the inner bearing stops in the hub so that the bearings are pinched against the shoulders and eliminate play, however if the bearings are a very loose fit in the hub you would still get play by that 'just' amount - mine were far too tight for that to happen.

warpcow

Superstar's info is pish. The qr caps have flats for spanners, not an internal hex key fitting. You have qr ends.

As above, check the axle's actually done up properly, then try the bearings if necessary.

The Rookie

warpcow wrote:

The qr caps have flats for spanners, not an internal hex key fitting. .

If you read my post again, my QR caps have no flats and do have an internal hex fitting, the only certainty is you have one or the other!

Greer_

Thanks, I'll try and get hold of some cone spanners now, as I can't do any fiddling without them.

The Rookie

As stated, there is no width restriction with those caps, so normal spanners will work fine.

Greer_

The Beginner wrote:

As stated, there is no width restriction with those caps, so normal spanners will work fine.

There isn't on the cassette side. But a cone spanner is needed for the non-drive side, as the metal ring you can see on the end cap in the below picture stops a normal width spanner fitting. The spanner slots are just behind that ring.

The Rookie

Argh OK!

Clarified if the play is between hub and axle or axle and frame yet?

Greer_

Nothings easy! It 'seems' to be between the axle and the frame; with the wheel and QR skewer out, not much movement can be felt.

The Rookie

Not much movement (between axle and hub) is too much...none is the acceptable level!