Slipping chain on chainset - new cassette and chain

stephencarter
stephencarter Posts: 5
edited April 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi Guys, I'm hoping someone here can help :?

Recently my cassette cracked on my specialized hardrock pro 2007, the cassette and chain were about 18 months old so I changed both.After installing and setting up, the chain slips off the chainset when under pressure and when going over bumps, mostly in the large cog but also occasionally in the middle. Over bumps and little pressure I feel the slip but the it corrects its self but when cycling up a hill or pulling of in a high gear the chain can completely come off. I've tried adjusting both the front and read de-railer and today I double checked the chain length. I think the cause is the chainset being worn but 95% of the time I cycle in on the large cog so I cant see how the middle one is also worn which is why I'm hesitant in buying a replacement.

I changed the cassette and chain myself around 18 month ago so I'm fairly confident I've installed it correctly but I may be wrong.

Could someone have a look at the photos I've attached? Does the chainset look worn?

Thanks for your help!

Comments

  • maringirl
    maringirl Posts: 195
    Badly worn teeth on chainring. Change.
  • Dirty-Boy
    Dirty-Boy Posts: 47
    Agree definately change the big ring! Did you use a split link/correct joining pin when fitting chain? Might be worth checking for tight/broken links whilst your working on it for peace of mind.
  • Thanks for both your replies,

    @ Dirty-Boy - To be honest, I'm not sure, I purchased a Shimano Deore HG53 chain, compared it with the last one and used my chain tool to cut it to size - was that correct? I checked for tight links yesterday, couldn't see any.

    Looking at the original spec's of my bike, the chain-set I've got is a Shimano FCM-442-8 - It looks like chain reaction does that exact same one, I'm assuming it will be easier to change the full chain set?

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=46021
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If just doing the outer, cheaper to just buy one
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=19105

    If the middle has gone then yes, often cheaper to buy a whole crankset if you're buying new.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Thanks for replying, it skips on the middle ring too, just not as much so I think I'll be safe and change both.
  • Problem all sorted with the new crank :D
    Dirty-Boy wrote:
    Agree definitely change the big ring! Did you use a split link/correct joining pin when fitting chain? Might be worth checking for tight/broken links whilst your working on it for peace of mind.

    After snapping the chain 3 times, now know what you mean by joining pin :oops:

    Thanks for your help guys!