Retro bike reframe project
The Rookie
Posts: 27,812
OK not your normal YMB thread, but thought I'd post it here for a laugh.
EDIT:- This was the original plan when I started this thread
We currently have a hack bike in the family, a Townsend that cost the princely sum of £5.50, however keeping the cheap single piece crankset going is a PITA.
A friend offered me a frame he was chucking out, thought I may as well take a look and this is what he gave me
As fas as I can find, it's a 1996 frame.
The lock attachment has been removed and the headset stripped and regreased (it was still in perfect condition inside).
A distinct step up from the Townsend frame, 1 1/8th steerer and has a sealed bearing ST BB, plan is to swap as much over from the Townsend frame as possible and add a few other bits out the shed as I go. Budget is £0.00 (so really gambling on having the silly bits like brake and gear cables!), ONLY parts I currently have will be used and the plan is still to leave it looking like it's not worth stealing (which the Townsend certainly fits the bill for!). As the cheap parts I have lying around are fairly heavy I will probably go 1x7 to save weight.
EDIT:- This was the original plan when I started this thread
We currently have a hack bike in the family, a Townsend that cost the princely sum of £5.50, however keeping the cheap single piece crankset going is a PITA.
A friend offered me a frame he was chucking out, thought I may as well take a look and this is what he gave me
As fas as I can find, it's a 1996 frame.
The lock attachment has been removed and the headset stripped and regreased (it was still in perfect condition inside).
A distinct step up from the Townsend frame, 1 1/8th steerer and has a sealed bearing ST BB, plan is to swap as much over from the Townsend frame as possible and add a few other bits out the shed as I go. Budget is £0.00 (so really gambling on having the silly bits like brake and gear cables!), ONLY parts I currently have will be used and the plan is still to leave it looking like it's not worth stealing (which the Townsend certainly fits the bill for!). As the cheap parts I have lying around are fairly heavy I will probably go 1x7 to save weight.
Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
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Comments
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Fuji used to do some very nice tubesets. Does it say what it is?0
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The frame is moderately light for it's age, with the BB (circa 280-325g for basic ones from experience) coming in at just over 3Kg - slightly lighter than my retro Gary Fisher Piranha, forks are quite nice though and just 900g (The GF's are a frankly incredable 1.35Kg!).
EDIT: Just checked the frame and found a sticker - True Temper AVR cromoly and double butted, so not made of gas pipe then.....
So instead of being used to reframe the Townsend I'll start by reframing the Piranha into the Nevada and then reframe the Townsend parts into the Piranha!Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
So time to reframe the GF with the Fuji....before the tools came out.
And after about 45 minutes of work we had
I'll be recabling the gears as I have some leftover SP41's.Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
I bet that Fuji is lovely to ride.0
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I'll let you know when I've ridden it, the GF wasn't bad but this will be nearly 1Kg lighter once it's done (I had a Spoon and XT rear mech (retro) ready for the GF that will be going on the Fuji, only bugbear is that I don't have a 28.6 front mech in top pull, so the search is on.....Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0
