Which freehub.

Sailingalong
Sailingalong Posts: 156
edited March 2013 in Workshop
I took the cogs off the back and cleaned and oiled the freehub (couldn't dismantle I've picked easier locks) which was making a noise, and put everything back but it's not right. It's making a crunching sound. If I buy a new one, how do I know what/which kind it is. It's an 8 cog Shimano at the rear.
Thanks.

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    what is the hub make as that is what determines what body you need.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Well there's no writing on the black freehub but it says shimano on the chrome side next to the axle bolt if that's what you mean.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    nope. that sounds like the cassette lock ring.

    OK make model and year of bike Presuming it is original.

    Or take it to a bike shop for them to ID.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Do you want the writing off the cassette lockring? The writing of Shimano was from the other side.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    no you need to ID the hub.

    we have already seen that it takes a shimano fit cassette but there are a few hundred bodies that do so and many are not interchangable.
    so as above.

    Hub ID or what it was originally fitted to and year.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • It's a Ribble bike about 2005/6. Do you want me to dismantle it all and photograph it. ?
  • IMGA0521.jpg

    IMGA0522.jpg
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Looks like Shimano Sora - there should be a 4-digit number on the silver hub body, something like 4300 or 4400?
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • zc is the only writing on the silver hub body.

    IMGA0523.jpg
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Can you stick a 10mm allen key in the central retaining bolt and unscrew it. Freehub should then lift off the hub. Might be some identifying marks on it somewhere?
  • Done that.
    There's absolutely nothing on the freehub at all and nothing under it on the hub.
    No writing on the front hub either except...Shimano Japan on the sides of it.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Sounding like they are Shimano OEM hubs then. (?) Would a Sora freehub fit? - Does the business end of the hub look like the pic in this:-

    http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techd ... 608910.pdf
  • Yes it looks like that in the document.
    I had the rubber washer off at one stage revealing lots of ballbearings.... is there any way of dismantling it please?
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    They can be dismantled, but most advice and certainly Shimano say don't bother. I just did as you have, remove the seal carefully and flush the whole thing with lots of light oil.
  • Yes, I did that and thought that it sounded better till I put it all back together and theres that crunching.
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Is the crunching definitely the freehub? Did you tighten the cassette lockring fully? (30-40 Nm is pretty tight, but don't overdo it and strip the thread!)
  • IMGA0523.jpg

    Definitely the freehub because it originally locked up with lack of use over the cold period and then I freed it up but it crunches... and I've got the lockring working good now
  • Sorry...wrong pic that last one.
    IMGA0524-1.jpg
  • IMGA0525.jpg
  • Keef66
    I gave it a good old flooding of oil for ages and it's quite a bit better now thanks. Not great, but it'll do till I find out what it is.
  • andy_wrx
    andy_wrx Posts: 3,396
    Sounds like the freehub, you can buy replacements.

    Shimano would like you to buy the correct one, and they're all sorts of prices depending which it is.
    And you don't know which you've got anyway.

    The higher-end ones like Dura Ace with titanium or alu hub bodies will require the correct one, but the lower end steel jobs taking 8/9/10sp cassettes are pretty interchangeable.

    I've fitted Tiagra 4300, Sora 3300 and 2200 freehubs onto my 105-level WHR-550 wheels.

    Sometimes it's cheaper buying an entire rear hub than simply the freehub - eg chainreaction had 2200 rear hubs for £5.99 but now seem to have sold out.
    You also get the bearings, q/r, axle, cones, etc as spares too

    Find the cheapest Shimano freehub body you can, or cheapest hub, check that it looks the same on the exploded view on Shimano tech docs website, the just fit that.
  • Thanks andy.