Chain spins but bike doesn't move ? huh ?

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Comments

  • bugmonkey
    bugmonkey Posts: 27
    I had a hub go on me last year - viewtopic.php?f=10004&t=12863426. Not the pawls getting stuck - the freehub body cracked into two parts. Getting home was a mixture of scooting along the flat, walking up the hills and free-wheeling down, until a local biker stopped and gave me a lift in his van (cheers!).

    Seems to have been a one off manufacturing defect and Superstar were good at getting a new freehub out to me pretty quick.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Depends on what actually casued the issue....

    If it was frozen, have a wee on it!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    God am I angry ... gonna have a heart attack if I aint careful (breathe) man I got anger issues...

    Right then..

    I went to Superstars today to collect my wheel, they said they have put a new freehub on it and ONE bearing had failed and they charged ME £20.... it was supposed to be a free warranty repair, had I have known they was putting a bearing in it I would have insisted on FAG ones not the cheap chinese ones they use that last 3 weeks !

    Anyway I got the bike home and guess what, they have been heavy handed and shaved off some metal on the hub where the disc brake sits, just a lil bit but I noticed it and I wasnt sure if the disc would now sit flush, and I put the wheel on the bike and now nothing works, the chain is no longer in alignment, everything is way off :(

    I emailed Superstars tonight and said I want a full refund or I will go to small claims court tomorrow and start proceedings, its only 50 quid to take um to court.

    SO looks like I am off the road for 2013, am so angry its unreal, this is what its cost me so far:

    1. Wheelset - £299.99
    2. Blind Bearing Puller - £49.99
    3. Quality FAG Bearings - £19.99
    4. Trip to Superstars - £10.00
    5. Forced warranty cost - £20.00
    6. Return from Superstars - £10.00

    So far I am into this wheelset for £409.97 and after this repair and now it no longer aligns up.

    Now I dont know all the terminology but are there things called cups that go in the wheel ? because there seems to be a larger gap between the smallest sprocket on the cassette to the frame than there was before, so could they have put incorrectly spaced cups in there ?

    I dont know, all I do know is I will never ever ever ever use Superstars again :(
  • gunga73
    gunga73 Posts: 125
    You should've got hope hoops, they're easy to service yourself and cheaper than what you've paid for superstar.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Why did you pay them? They have to state up front any charges or contact you. Maybe you didn't know that though.

    If they have fitted a new freehub body and bearings it may be sat in a slightly different relative position than before ie could be a new upgraded unit, or even that the old one was not on properly. It is not unusual at all to have to re index gears and adjust disc brakes after any bearings a freehub change.

    Any pics of this mark?
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    I didnt know about that, and I aint got v good people skills I tend to be all or nothing, its easier for me to pay it and walk away gritted teeth than to kick off, I just wanted to ride again :(

    damagedhub.jpg

    I have a pic of my cassette before and the bottom sprocket is v close to the frame, not enough room for the chain to fall off, well now its a good 10mm away, so I wonder if they have installed longer side caps ? could that be possible and thus be the reason why the gears are all out of whack ? I cant get them to index right, my rear mech would be in my spokes to line it up.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    I'd be pretty annoyed too at being charged, but at this stage is best to take a step back and see if we can sum this up so you can move forward the best way.

    10mm difference is far, far too much. I agree something is not right here. Any more pics of this?

    The mark doesn't look like it will cause problems, and will not effect the disc position, but always good to log it with them just in case.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    edited March 2013
    I appreciate your help and advice mate, I have told all me mates I aint cycling anymore after this, think its just been one of those days and I'll calm down later.

    Pics, interesting this, have a look.

    Ya see how when I had me crank brothers wheels the cassette came right to the end of the end cap of the hub ? well now its not like that and I have a 10mm gap for the chain to fall in, I feel with a smaller end cap this would solve it but I aint sure how the other end would fit and wouldnt that mean it would be a silly long spacer on the other side ?

    I am wondering if my cassette is right now ? I best fire up some pics, explain it a lot better than I can.

    Note position how the cassette used to sit
    79127467.jpg
    snap427r.png
    This is how it is now
    img0506su.jpg
    img0503ru.jpg
    img0504j.jpg
    img0505z.jpg
    img0507nut.jpg
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Is hard to say - do the end caps just pull off? Are they different sizes ie on the wrong ends of the hub?

    Does the rim sit in the middle of the frame?

    Is not unusual for different wheels to have quite different spacings, (the Crank wheels looks too much the other way!) But it does seem it has shifted a lot. Though the mech H limit stops will prevent the chain falling into the gap. But you said the chain rubs the spokes in the low gear?

    Also the mech hanger looks bent ;-)
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    I gave the end caps a tug but they was solid, I could try with grips, I think the caps are the same length, hard to tell now I got my cassette back on.

    Wheel appeared to sit central yes.

    Yes when in a low gear am in 8th of 9 and its already nearly touching the spokes, when I tried to set the high and low stop screws the low gear biggeswt sprocket was just too far into the wheel and it wouldnt adjust any further out.

    Yeah the mech hanger was bent thats an old pic, got a new one now and all sorted.
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    when I tried to set the high and low stop screws the low gear biggeswt sprocket was just too far into the wheel and it wouldnt adjust any further out.

    Not sure what you mean - once the L stop is all the way out ie removed, the mech is free to move as far as it wants until is full stretched. You need to adjust the cable tension to get the mech to move over.

    I would start a fresh with the indexing.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Yes thats a great idea I didn't think of that, I will start fresh tomorrow with no cable tension and see if that changes anything, thanks 8)
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    SS end caps come off using a allen key up the inside as per my post on the first page. I have SS Superlegera hubs, will check it out and compare to your photos, but when I swapped them in for the Ritcheys I did notice the cassette was furtheraway from the dropout than it had been and I needed to re-index.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Many thanks Beginner appreciate that.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Well I did what you both suggested supersonic / beginner and I think it may have done the trick :D

    I undid the gear cable and started from scratch again, wasn't havin it to begin with but now it will go up and down the cassette ok, on the stand at least, my only problem now is the b-stop screw, its 98% all the way out and theres about 5-7mm of space between the top jockey wheel and the largest cassette, in the smallest chainring, if I took the b-stop screw out there is no way the jockey wheel and cassette would rub so I hope thats ok ?

    Test ride first thing in the morning, am happy yet sad, happy at the thought of cycling again, sad at the thought knowing SS used those cheap bearings that only lasted me 3 weeks and wondering each time I ride will this be the one where my freehub knackers again and I have to push the bike home.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Be careful with the B-stop, you have 2 springs pulling against each other, try pulling the middle part of the mech back and letting go 4-5 times and you end you with 4-5 different clearances, it will also be affected if one of the pivots is a little sticky.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    SS end caps come off using a allen key up the inside as per my post on the first page. I have SS Superlegera hubs, will check it out and compare to your photos, but when I swapped them in for the Ritcheys I did notice the cassette was furtheraway from the dropout than it had been and I needed to re-index.
    Yep, the cassette with the SS hubs sits about 1 gear further from the dropouts than on my older wheels

    20130321_203234_zps8ea25701.jpg
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,667
    Thats whats happened to me as well with the new hub which looks identical to the last one though.

    I managed to get it all working in the end, but when freewheeling the clicking that it used to make which was loud is now very quiet and every now and then it gives a horrible humming noise.

    I am not sure if this is something that will bed in ? I complained to SS and they gave me a returns postage label for DHL to return the wheel but I dont want them messing with it again after last time when it came back with metal shaved off the other side of the hub where the disc sits.

    I think I will just put up with it and when it goes replace it with a new free hub of my own choice and learn never to deal with Superstar Components again, as the old saying goes, if you want a job done properly do it yourself, feel I been robbed though big time.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    CubeCrazy wrote:
    if you want a job done properly do it yourself, feel I been robbed though big time.
    I did do it myself, very simple......

    To clarify the SS rear hub moves the cassette over compared to my previous Ritchey I had before, it's in the same place compared to where it was before I serviced it.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.