Wheel/hub offeset... minor techincal alignmenent issue.

weeksy59

Right boys... here's the scenario.

I've got a Spearfish.... i built from scratch.

I've got 2 sets of wheels, a pair of Giant S-XC 29 and a pair of Hope Pro2/Crest 29.

When i fit the Hopes and the rear mech is adjusted for hi/lo, then i get all 10 gears.... However, when i then fit the Giants, when i go for the big ring on the rear, it slips over the top and between the spokes/hub. So, i adjust the hi/lo, brining it so the Giant no longer does that, but then the Hopes don't get the largest cog on the rear..

None of this is a major concern per se... but i like things RIGHT....

So, why are they aligned sightly differently, what can i do about it ?

I also notice this on the brakes too, they're about 1mm-1.3mm out when swapping between wheels (rear only) and need a minor caliper alignment when swapping wheels... Again... this is more just curiosity than an actual issue.

So, i bought a 2mm cassette spacer (single speed type) to see if i could use that to move the Hopes cassette out about 2mm to sort the alignment, sadly, this meant the lock-ring didn't work, so that was a no-go. So i was thinking of a 1mm cassette spacer instead ?

Any thoughts appreciated

Chunkers1980

Different relative positions.

supersonic

Different models of hubs have different dimensions. This sounds entirely normal.

weeksy59

supersonic wrote:

Different models of hubs have different dimensions. This sounds entirely normal.

Spacing the one that sits closest to the inside out by 1mm to bring to equal alignment is OK?

nicklouse

set for each as you change.

weeksy59

nicklouse wrote:

set for each as you change.

Ewwwww. Really don't like that idea.... whilst it's not a major inconvenience... it's more than i'd like....

styxd

Just get a road bike ?

nicklouse

weeksy59 wrote:

nicklouse wrote:

set for each as you change.

Ewwwww. Really don't like that idea.... whilst it's not a major inconvenience... it's more than i'd like....

then run one set of wheels.

weeksy59

nicklouse wrote:

weeksy59 wrote:

nicklouse wrote:

set for each as you change.

Ewwwww. Really don't like that idea.... whilst it's not a major inconvenience... it's more than i'd like....

then run one set of wheels.

I like that even less.

May be ridiculous, but i use the Hopes for road/XC stuff running Aspens.
I use the Giants with Ardents for trailcentre stuff, the logic being that i don't want to bugger up my nice Hopes...

weeksy59

styxd wrote:

Just get a road bike ?

Bought one... used it 5 times.... sold it.... they're bloody rubbish.

styxd

weeksy59 wrote:

nicklouse wrote:

weeksy59 wrote:

nicklouse wrote:

set for each as you change.

Ewwwww. Really don't like that idea.... whilst it's not a major inconvenience... it's more than i'd like....

then run one set of wheels.

I like that even less.

May be ridiculous, but i use the Hopes for road/XC stuff running Aspens.
I use the Giants with Ardents for trailcentre stuff, the logic being that i don't want to bugger up my nice Hopes...

Trail centre is XC stuff isn't it?

How are you going to "bugger up" your hope wheels by using them at trail centres?

weeksy59

styxd wrote:

weeksy59 wrote:

nicklouse wrote:

weeksy59 wrote:

nicklouse wrote:

set for each as you change.

Ewwwww. Really don't like that idea.... whilst it's not a major inconvenience... it's more than i'd like....

then run one set of wheels.

I like that even less.

May be ridiculous, but i use the Hopes for road/XC stuff running Aspens.
I use the Giants with Ardents for trailcentre stuff, the logic being that i don't want to bugger up my nice Hopes...

Trail centre is XC stuff isn't it?

How are you going to "bugger up" your hope wheels by using them at trail centres?

i'm fat

In all seriousness, different tyres for different rides... some days i'll ride in the mud... some days i'll just ride on the road... so different rubber for different conditions too

styxd

weeksy59 wrote:

styxd wrote:

Just get a road bike ?

Bought one... used it 5 times.... sold it.... they're bloody rubbish.

They work alrite on the road.

Chunkers1980

Or learn to adjust. You will be able to set the barrel to do all the adjustments, and about a turn or 2 of each of the limit screws.

weeksy59

Chunkers1980 wrote:

Or learn to adjust. You will be able to set the barrel to do all the adjustments, and about a turn or 2 of each of the limit screws.

I know how to adjust it mate... i'd just rather not do it each and every time i swap. It could quite easily be 4-5 swaps a week deepending on weather/time/availablilty.

cooldad

Sometimes easier just to swap tyres.

The Rookie

2 Choices really swap tyres or swap wheels with attendant isues on indexing.

It MAY be possible to tweak the spacers on one or other to move it, but not having looked inside either I've no idea.

cooldad

Indexing and often brake caliper adjustment

Chunkers1980

And chain wear issues.

mrmonkfinger

The answer's obvious. Throw the giant wheels, purchase another set of Hopes.

nicklouse

mrmonkfinger wrote:

The answer's obvious. Throw the giant wheels, purchase another set of Hopes.

still does not mean no adjustment will be needed.

as bearings wear the relative position of the cassette and the disc brake moves.

but as adjusting is easy and takes next to no time and with the practice you will get faster the OP needs to MTFU or change tyres.

allthegearnoidea

if its ushing the chain off the top of the cogs on 1st then a shim on the axle should help?? and same on the other side?? ive one on the fron axel on mine, slid over the end on the axel to push the rotor bolts away fromt the fork leg, (non floating rotor),

The Rookie

allthegearnoidea wrote:

if its pushing the chain off the top of the cogs on 1st then a shim on the axle should help?? and same on the other side??

Same side shim each side will leave the wheel in the same place it started from!

allthegearnoidea

er, you sure?? the frame would be the 2 shims width further apart, thus meaning the mech would be furher out as would the caliper,i f its pushing the chain over the top of 1st then by popping a shim in it may be enough to stop it diong so, same with the caliper, may be enough to stop having to adjust them everytime!??!

nicklouse

and force the frame wider. which will add forces to any pivots (if present)

I have already had my say on this.

and I run 3 sets of wheels on one bike. shim the discs and set up the rear mech.

nicklouse

allthegearnoidea wrote:

er, you sure?? the frame would be the 2 shims width further apart, thus meaning the mech would be furher out as would the caliper,i f its pushing the chain over the top of 1st then by popping a shim in it may be enough to stop it diong so, same with the caliper, may be enough to stop having to adjust them everytime!??!

so then you would have to adjust the caliper each time. not to mention compensate for bearing wear.

allthegearnoidea

if the shim on the disc side was enough to move the caliper away Assuming that the caliper was closer to the wheel in the same that the mech was pushing the chain over the top of 1st, then technically it Wouldnt???

nicklouse

allthegearnoidea wrote:

if the shim on the disc side was enough to move the caliper away Assuming that the caliper was closer to the wheel in the same that the mech was pushing the chain over the top of 1st, then technically it Wouldnt???

no.

cassette position has no relation to disc position.

disc position has a standard. (and that is not standard as it changes as the bearings wear.

so shim your hub. shim your disc as well and then adjust every thing as things wear at different rates which you would need to do any way.

and not forgetting the hub is now over size.

have fun.

allthegearnoidea

okay, thanks for clearing that up matey.