Chain stay protectors - what type?

jimothy78
jimothy78 Posts: 1,407
edited July 2013 in MTB buying advice
Hi all, am looking to get a chain stay protector, and just want some advice/experience on the different types available.

Fron what I've seen there are three main types: Sticky vinyl patches, rubber tapes and neoprene sleeves.

I'm more interested in reducing chain slap noise than guarding against damage to the paintwork, so presumably the latter would be better (thicker/softer?). However the neoprene sleeves look a bit bulky and like they might come undone (Also, might foul under-bb cable routing?). So maybe I'd be better off sticking to the middle ground and going for the tape option.

Any thoughts?

Comments

  • _HENDO_
    _HENDO_ Posts: 93
    Here's what I think:
    Tape on it's own protects well but very little difference in sound.

    Tape + neoprene works will, protects & VERY quit but wears through quickly in certain areas.

    I have never used an inner tube but it works well apparently.

    Currently testing out road handlebar tape as it should be more durable and just as quiet!
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  • chrisw333
    chrisw333 Posts: 695
    A lot of people will say wrap an old inner tube round and cable tie. I'm sure that works well, but a neoprene sleeve doesn't break the bank and has always been perfect on my bikes.
  • danlikesbikes
    danlikesbikes Posts: 3,898
    Neoprene is good at cutting out the noise & I have never had mine fall off/undone, can get a bit mucky but easy enough to clean off.

    I have a vinyl patch on my other bike & also does a good job at protecting the fame but does not dull the sound of the chain.
    Pain hurts much less if its topped off with beating your mates to top of a climb.
  • chez_m356
    chez_m356 Posts: 1,893
    Neoprene is good at cutting out the noise & I have never had mine fall off/undone, can get a bit mucky but easy enough to clean off.
    same here, had one on my spesh since i bought it in late 2009, only thing thats worn on it is the emblem that was printed on it
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  • angry_bird
    angry_bird Posts: 3,787
    Got a neoprene sleeve thing on one bike, does the job alright but on the other I have an old inner tube from the road bike. The valve was knackered anyway so no real cost, just chopped it down to size and to be honest I prefer it, it's easier to get a nice snug fit and there's really not much in it with the weight either.
  • warpcow
    warpcow Posts: 1,448
    Wrapping it in velcro (just the fluffy, non-hook, side) is the quietest I've noticed. Personally though, I just use an inner tube. Tried bartape too, but the chain cut it to pieces in no time.
  • jimothy78
    jimothy78 Posts: 1,407
    Thanks for all the replies. I hadn't heard the inner tube idea before (although now it seems so obvious). Might try that first and see how I go. I also have a load of sticky-backed velcro knocking about somewhere, so that's an interesting idea, too.
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    I have used plumbers self amalgamating silicone repair tape in the past it does a good job and is long lasting. A bit fiddly to apply neatly but take your time and its a permanent job the chain just seems to slide over it.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Self-Amalgamating-Rubber-Insulation-Tape-19-MM-x-10-M-/150577176396?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item230f195f4c
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  • jimothy78 wrote:
    Thanks for all the replies. I hadn't heard the inner tube idea before (although now it seems so obvious). Might try that first and see how I go. I also have a load of sticky-backed velcro knocking about somewhere, so that's an interesting idea, too.

    Inner tube works wonders!
    www.youtube.com/watch?v=XIkTBuuzKOU
  • jimothy78
    jimothy78 Posts: 1,407
    Thanks for that - the second method looks nice and neat by the end - will give that a go.
  • gattler
    gattler Posts: 3
    stubs wrote:
    I have used plumbers self amalgamating silicone repair tape in the past it does a good job and is long lasting. A bit fiddly to apply neatly but take your time and its a permanent job the chain just seems to slide over it.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Self-Amalgamating-Rubber-Insulation-Tape-19-MM-x-10-M-/150577176396?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item230f195f4c

    stubs, could you describe briefly how you applied that rubber tape, any dos and donts ?
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Don't.

    Use your head and buy a neoprene protector.
  • gattler
    gattler Posts: 3
    I thought by now we all understood that we established that there are better options than neoprene protectors!?
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    gattler wrote:
    I thought by now we all understood that we established that there are better options than neoprene protectors!?
    By we do you mean you?
    I don't do smileys.

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  • rockmonkeysc
    rockmonkeysc Posts: 14,774
    Nothing works better than an old tube. Lasts for years and costs bugger all.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    You've got a £3,500 quid bike yet you're too tight to adorn it with a tenner's worth of neoprene.
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    gattler wrote:
    stubs wrote:
    I have used plumbers self amalgamating silicone repair tape in the past it does a good job and is long lasting. A bit fiddly to apply neatly but take your time and its a permanent job the chain just seems to slide over it.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Self-Amalgamating-Rubber-Insulation-Tape-19-MM-x-10-M-/150577176396?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Other&hash=item230f195f4c

    stubs, could you describe briefly how you applied that rubber tape, any dos and donts ?

    Clear the decks remove everything I even removed the front mech and cranks. Clean the paintwork and your ready, have some sharp scissors handy. Remove about 6 to 8 inches of backing film snip it off to keep it out of way. The tape sticks to itself if you get it tangled you have to start again. Stretch tape and do a turn round stay starting at BB end where theres more room. Keeping tape under tension start winding it on do it so each turn 3/4 overlaps the previous turn. Keep snipping off 6 to 8ninches of backing as you go its actually easier if someone snips it off for you. When your all the way to dropout stretch tape as hard as you can and cut with scissors and your done. If you dont like it it easily cuts off with a Stanley knife.

    I did it on my Scandal hardtail and its lasted 2 years
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  • gattler
    gattler Posts: 3
    Great! - Two questions,

    1) You say overlap with 3/4 when taping around the frame, don't you mean overlap by 1/4?
    2) Is there another possibility to remove the tape than with a stanley knife? I don't want to damage my carbon frame

    And.. good explanation, thanks mate. :D
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    gattler wrote:
    Great! - Two questions,

    1) You say overlap with 3/4 when taping around the frame, don't you mean overlap by 1/4?
    2) Is there another possibility to remove the tape than with a stanley knife? I don't want to damage my carbon frame

    And.. good explanation, thanks mate. :D

    No 3/4 then you are guaranteed to get a nice even double layer of rubber. To remove the tape you dont need to cut right through just use a new blade and cut through the tape almost all the way the last layer will peel back or just need a light stroke to cut through. Its great stuff my washing machine drain is held together with it because I couldnt get a fitting to go round a joist without chopping it almost all the way through.
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  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Nothing works better than an old tube. Lasts for years and costs bugger all.
    I have neoprene things because I found a bunch at Halfords in a sale bin for a quid each so bought them all, but otherwise this^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
    I don't do smileys.

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