QR woes.

blablablacksheep
blablablacksheep Posts: 1,377
edited March 2013 in MTB beginners
Received my MTB(full suspension), but having a issue I've never had before.

When mounting the rear wheel and installing the QR, I'm finding the disc brake rotor is rubbing against the pads, it's becoming very hard getting the rotor properly centered.

This all due to the fact the QR, has so much movement when you undo it.

Never had any issues with front as its 15mm, so engages solid.

Help please
London2Brighton Challange 100k!
http://www.justgiving.com/broxbourne-runners

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Centre the caliper with the QR done up.
    The QR has nothing to do with it, unless the frame is flexing.
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  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    Also, your front will sit in the same place each time as it is a bolt up, make sure the qr axel rests in the dropouts in the same positio each time and center the rotor to that.
  • Every time i undo the QR and then try tightening it up/taking wheel off and back on, it seems to require a lot of playing around with to make sure the rotor is centered to the pads.., is this normal? (doesnt feel right... shouldn't it just slot into place? )

    Il post a picture later when i have a chance if that might help, (tried this with bike in stand and on the floor)
    London2Brighton Challange 100k!
    http://www.justgiving.com/broxbourne-runners
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Put the wheel in, close the QR and remember the force you used. Now adjust the caliper.
  • lostboysaint
    lostboysaint Posts: 4,250
    cooldad wrote:
    Centre the caliper with the QR done up.
    The QR has nothing to do with it, unless the frame is flexing.

    That.

    Just get the QR done up tight and then centre the caliper.
    Trail fun - Transition Bandit
    Road - Wilier Izoard Centaur/Cube Agree C62 Disc
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  • ok, going to give that a try, just get QR in without paying attention to the pads and rotor then il try adjusting calliper.


    surprised canyon didn't already check this when they sent the bike out tbh.
    London2Brighton Challange 100k!
    http://www.justgiving.com/broxbourne-runners
  • Greer_
    Greer_ Posts: 1,716
    ok, going to give that a try, just get QR in without paying attention to the pads and rotor then il try adjusting calliper.


    surprised canyon didn't already check this when they sent the bike out tbh.

    You can end up adjusting the callipers every time you take the wheel on and off depending on how much tension you put on the QR skewer.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,814
    The QR doesn't really have anythinbg to do with it, the dropouts pinch on the rear axle locknuts which are the same distance apart all the time (apart fromk radical differences in QR preload), rear wheels can just be fiddly to get in sometimes, but shouldn't rub once they are in if the axle is located in the dropouts properly.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • This really isn't working at all, I'm not totally retarded in this but this is really fast becoming a right pain.

    I'll try explain again so it's clear.

    Take wheel off then when putting back there is a lot of side to side movement. As you'd expect as the qr takes away play..

    The issue is this side to side movement makes it near impossible to get the rotor centred between the brake pads, so when you do up qr and pay removed the rotor is rubbing.

    If I undo calliper then try centring it after doing up qr it won't make any difference as there is so much play at start I'd never get the same position each time.

    I think I might phone up canyon as this seems like a bigger issue ie frame flex maybe.
    I've done up plenty of qrs and never had anything like this before
    London2Brighton Challange 100k!
    http://www.justgiving.com/broxbourne-runners
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    This really isn't working at all, I'm not totally retarded in this but this is really fast becoming a right pain.

    I'll try explain again so it's clear.

    Take wheel off then when putting back there is a lot of side to side movement. As you'd expect as the qr takes away play..

    The issue is this side to side movement makes it near impossible to get the rotor centred between the brake pads, so when you do up qr and pay removed the rotor is rubbing.

    If I undo calliper then try centring it after doing up qr it won't make any difference as there is so much play at start I'd never get the same position each time.

    I think I might phone up canyon as this seems like a bigger issue ie frame flex maybe.
    I've done up plenty of qrs and never had anything like this before

    Surely that's bearings not the QR.
  • Chunkers1980
    Chunkers1980 Posts: 8,035
    There shouldn't be play in the wheel. The qr is NOT designed to remove play you do that with the 'cones' and locknuts. Note qrs can remove a very very small amount of play as they compress the axel, but is very small
  • All fixed :-D .

    Phoned canyon and guy asked if I had put on the 20mm adapters, that come with bike... I then realized they had come off when I took off the black hub protector caps...

    Opps, no wonder it was hard
    London2Brighton Challange 100k!
    http://www.justgiving.com/broxbourne-runners
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Lol!!! Ah well, we live and learn! All this play stuff was confusing!
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,814
    PMSL..... so the brake disc was the only thing stopping the wheel floating the tyre into the frame!
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • YOU WOLLY!!