Play in rear wheel

concorde
concorde Posts: 1,008
edited March 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Hi,

Noticed on last nights night ride that I have some play in my rear wheel. mm or two. Just wondering how much does it usually cost to have this fixed at your average LBS?

Also, what can happen if I choose to ride Brechfa - Gorlech trail on Saturday and Afan - The Wall on Sunday before getting it sorted?

Cheers

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    it depends on the hub.

    cone and cup need adjusting. Cartridge need replacing.

    using it before fixing may lead to a lot of walking and greater cost.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    The hubs are Shimano RM66 Black 32 hole Q/R?
  • thelonegroover
    thelonegroover Posts: 1,073
    I think these are cup and cone so you should be able to adjust them.
    Planet X Kaffenback 2
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    Genesis Core 20
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    Concorde wrote:
    The hubs are Shimano RM66 Black 32 hole Q/R?
    then read the info on Sheldons pages and adjust them before the ride.

    you will need some cone spanners.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    Cheers both

    The link in your sig?

    Having a look through now.
  • spacedog
    spacedog Posts: 97
    Depends on how warn the hub is. Shimano are bad for getting pitted cups and cones which means a new hub.

    If you can't get it running smooth, pull it apart and have a look at the surfaces.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    No they aren't, if you look after them they can last decades. And do. And its' worn.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    Will do if can't get it running smooth, hopefully riding it last night down whites level, which is rough, didn't total it!
  • spacedog
    spacedog Posts: 97
    That's my experience and that of people I know.

    If you service them regularly and preemptively they will last a good while. But I don't know many people that do.

    Give me cartridge bearings any day.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    cooldad wrote:
    No they aren't, if you look after them they can last decades. And do. And its' worn.
    And it's it's :D

    Is it play in the hub or the rim out of true (before you start), your description sounds more like the latter!

    Easy to tell play in the hub once the wheel is out as you can feel the axle move inside the hub.

    Two Shimano hubs on my commuter, both bought used, both now have circa 3000miles on in my hands, both running as smooth as.....
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Uli
    Uli Posts: 190
    You can service Shimano hubs in 30 minutes while seating on your sofa and drinking tea. Find Shimano tech doc for your hub, pack them with grease and you good to go.
    Servicing cartridge hubs is slightly different as it may release loads of negative emotions.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    cooldad wrote:
    No they aren't, if you look after them they can last decades. And do. And its' worn.
    And it's it's :D

    Is it play in the hub or the rim out of true (before you start), your description sounds more like the latter!

    Easy to tell play in the hub once the wheel is out as you can feel the axle move inside the hub.

    Two Shimano hubs on my commuter, both bought used, both now have circa 3000miles on in my hands, both running as smooth as.....
    I was busy spluttering over my tea and composing a letter to the Mail. But looking at it again I think it's something stuck on your screen. Try Tippex.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    If I hold the bike upright by the saddle with one hand, grab the wheel with my other hand I can move the wheel laterally?
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    the whole wheel or the rim?

    is the hub sliding on the axel or is it the rim moving due to slack spokes?
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    Will have to check when I get in. Didn't really notice, as didn't know what I was checking for. I think the cassette seemed to be moving a bit too though?
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    Sounds more the hub? Pretty sure was the whole wheel moving not just rim
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    nicklouse wrote:
    Concorde wrote:
    The hubs are Shimano RM66 Black 32 hole Q/R?
    then read the info on Sheldons pages and adjust them before the ride.

    you will need some cone spanners.
    Have you?
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    cooldad wrote:
    nicklouse wrote:
    Concorde wrote:
    The hubs are Shimano RM66 Black 32 hole Q/R?
    then read the info on Sheldons pages and adjust them before the ride.

    you will need some cone spanners.
    Have you?

    Tried a couple of times, the stuff on hubs doesn't make much sense to me. Nothing about adjusting from what I can find through the gloassary.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    nicklouse wrote:

    Cheers, didn't really know what I was looking for. Read it a couple of times now.
  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    cone adjustment for some can be a pain, 10 minutes from your LBS should sort adjustment. Worth trying to learn though.
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    zx6man wrote:
    cone adjustment for some can be a pain, 10 minutes from your LBS should sort adjustment. Worth trying to learn though.

    Sure it'll be a pain but yes, def good to learn and probably simple when you know how. 1/10th turns to tighten it, little bit of play when the wheel is off, then put it on and tighten the QR and see how it feels. Repeat if necessary should see me right...
  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    Yup, easy as that. I do my own BTW and don't even swear, so can't be too hard.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Only if you've done the cones and the locknuts properly.
    I don't do smileys.

    There is no secret ingredient - Kung Fu Panda

    London Calling on Facebook

    Parktools
  • tarbot18
    tarbot18 Posts: 531
    Have a nose on youtube some vids to show you how to adjust cup and cone hubs pretty simple really and strangely therapeutic , ended up doing the wheels on 3 of my bikes last week ........
    think i may have a problem............
    The family that rides together stays together !

    Boardman Comp 29er 2013

    Whyte T129s 2014 viewtopic.php?f=10017&t=12965414&p=18823801&hilit=whyte+t129s#p18823801

    Road Scott speedster s50 2011
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    Me and a mate had a potch. It wasn't that straight forward. Struggled to get to the cones. Took cassette off etc. One side was screwing off okay but the side with the freehub on we couldn't get it off to get to the cone. Just tightened that one side we could get to and it seems to have done the trick. Probably should have watched some videos of it first...
  • zx6man
    zx6man Posts: 1,092
    You only remove one side :-)
  • concorde
    concorde Posts: 1,008
    zx6man wrote:
    You only remove one side :-)

    Haha, good oh! I did think that when the other seemed impossible to get off so I went with my incline.