BB30 Creak - Re Grease or Replace?

stoneb09
stoneb09 Posts: 98
edited February 2013 in Workshop
Hello,

I have got the BB30 creak that seems to be a consistent trend with the FSA BB's.

Which will be the best route to go down?

1) Strip down the current bottom bracket and re grease - if this option suggested what tools would I need?

2) Possibly replace the existing BB with a 105 unit? Would I have to replace the chain rings for this?

3) Any other suggestions?

Regards, Brad

Comments

  • mattv
    mattv Posts: 992
    You can't replace it with a shimano unit, they are all a totally different fitment. There are 2 adapters you can use, one involves gluing into your frame, the other one uses the existing bearing so may still creak! Take out, clean it all, spot of carbon safe grease.
  • Dave_P1
    Dave_P1 Posts: 565
    Strip down, clean and re grease is the cheapest option.
    Depending on cranks, but a 10mm allen key to remove them.
    I use a park bbt-30.3 bottom bracket tool to remove the bearings (I'm sure there are cheaper home made options out there)
    To install the bearings I use a headset press that doubles up to press bearings into the frame.
  • Dave_P1 wrote:
    Strip down, clean and re grease is the cheapest option.
    Depending on cranks, but a 10mm allen key to remove them.
    I use a park bbt-30.3 bottom bracket tool to remove the bearings (I'm sure there are cheaper home made options out there)
    To install the bearings I use a headset press that doubles up to press bearings into the frame.

    So its literally cranks off, remove bearings, remove crank and clean/degrease everything and then regrease the bearings and replace?

    Instead of a bearing press could I use a hammer and a block of wood? I know this is a bit amateur but it would do the same job? Don't get me wrong, I don't mind buying tools but headset press' seem expensive for what they are :)
  • is there any play in the crank? when does the creak come in...if constant it is most likely the bearing is shot.

    as long as it is standard BB30 bearings it is totally interchangeable between FSA/SRAM/CANNONDALE as they all consists a pair of circ clips, a pair of bearings, 1 wave washer and some other washers. However there is more science to the pressfit BBs.

    I didn't know Shimano had BB30. they however do have Pressfit BB.

    you question about chainring seems off topic. why would you replace chainrings unless they are worn out - shark finned. if you meant 105 cranks, then you need a BB30 to BSA adaptor. as the normal shimano external bearing (Hollowtech 2) is 24mm axel system and need step down to fit the BB30 shell. The pressfit shimano BB will not fit in the BB30 shell.
    Road - Cannondale CAAD 8 - 7.8kg
    Road - Chinese Carbon Diablo - 6.4kg
  • ricky1980 wrote:
    is there any play in the crank? when does the creak come in...if constant it is most likely the bearing is shot.

    as long as it is standard BB30 bearings it is totally interchangeable between FSA/SRAM/CANNONDALE as they all consists a pair of circ clips, a pair of bearings, 1 wave washer and some other washers. However there is more science to the pressfit BBs.

    I didn't know Shimano had BB30. they however do have Pressfit BB.

    you question about chainring seems off topic. why would you replace chainrings unless they are worn out - shark finned. if you meant 105 cranks, then you need a BB30 to BSA adaptor. as the normal shimano external bearing (Hollowtech 2) is 24mm axel system and need step down to fit the BB30 shell. The pressfit shimano BB will not fit in the BB30 shell.

    Yes I was wondering if I was to change to a 105 Bottom Bracket that I would have to change the chain rings as well (FSA units) but what you have said above makes sense.

    The creaking comes when the BB is under intense load i.e. out of the saddle up a hill.
  • that might be cos the cranks not been tightened to the correct torque or over tightened. try tighten it a bit

    reason for tightening instead of untightening, i had the same thing after i serviced my BB30. i annoyed the hell out of me, so i bought a torque wrench and did it up properly - ta dang no more noise!
    Road - Cannondale CAAD 8 - 7.8kg
    Road - Chinese Carbon Diablo - 6.4kg
  • Bozman
    Bozman Posts: 2,518
    stoneb09 wrote:
    Dave_P1 wrote:
    Strip down, clean and re grease is the cheapest option.
    Depending on cranks, but a 10mm allen key to remove them.
    I use a park bbt-30.3 bottom bracket tool to remove the bearings (I'm sure there are cheaper home made options out there)
    To install the bearings I use a headset press that doubles up to press bearings into the frame.

    So its literally cranks off, remove bearings, remove crank and clean/degrease everything and then regrease the bearings and replace?

    Instead of a bearing press could I use a hammer and a block of wood? I know this is a bit amateur but it would do the same job? Don't get me wrong, I don't mind buying tools but headset press' seem expensive for what they are :)

    You can buy a cheap BB30 bearing "tool" from CRC for £4.99, easy to use but support the BB when you're knocking the old bearings out, you can tap the new bearings in with ease.
  • jgsi
    jgsi Posts: 5,062
    New bearings all the time! Don't chance it.
    Tapping out with that daft FSA removal tool, however carefully will damage and thus aid the creak you have been suffering from.
    Clean where the bearings sit and regrease - be generous.. tap in with piece of wood and light hammer and then press in the new bearings fully up to the circlip... just get a long coach nut and bolt some washers and the pressfit FSA installation tools to make diy press tool
    Refit cranks .. any shims, the bearing facing washers and wavy washer on non drive side - all nicely greased on the faces and good to go

    Oh dont do as I did it with bike in workstand... and nearly took my thumb off... strip the bike back to the frame and lay it horizontal on blocks of wood and then you can remove and fit the bearings with hardly any effort... just a bit of care.