Gore rideon sealed gear cables

swod1
swod1 Posts: 1,639
edited February 2013 in MTB buying advice
hello everyone i'm new here so please bare with me.

I've had my bike since may last year and have been riding in all weathers recently really muddy tracks.

I'm looking to replace the gear cables on my trek 4500 with some gore rideon sealed cables to improve the gear shifts on my bike.

The gear cables are quite exposed.

Do any of you guys use these on your bikes or shall i just buy the shimano xtr cable kit ?

cheers

shaun

Comments

  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Shimano SP41 outer by the metre from CRC or similar, and Shimano stainless steel cables work for me. And cheap enough to replace regularly.
    I've never tried the Gore, but have tried other sealed cables and have been dissapointed.
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  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    cooldad wrote:
    Shimano SP41 outer by the metre from CRC or similar, and Shimano stainless steel cables work for me. And cheap enough to replace regularly.
    I've never tried the Gore, but have tried other sealed cables and have been dissapointed.

    Thanks for your reply, i was thinking of running front to back full outer casing for the gear wires but i dont think it will fit in the clips on the frame ?

    the 2013 version of my bike now has the cables run inside the frame :(

    In the gore kit the exposed cable bits are covered with a plastic type covering over the inner wire.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Yeah, I've tried similar but they didn't seem to last any better than normal cables, and had more friction, but Gore could be better.
    I have a nasty run down one of my suspension struts - almost vertical, and it gunks up quickly.
    I just replace the cable every few months, or whenever my shifting gets stiff. That's why I buy 10m of outer a time.
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  • Levi_501
    Levi_501 Posts: 1,105
    SP41 is excellent stuff.

    You can file out the cable stops and run the outer all the way. I have doen it, it take a bit of time, but just buy a six pack on the way home, order a pizza and you should be able to do it well in an evening.

    The only real advise I would add is to put tape around the frame just in case the file tounches it.
  • nferrar
    nferrar Posts: 2,511
    I use Gore cables on my MTBs and winter bikes, it's maintenance free (been over 2 years untouched on my main MTB). I wouldn't replace perfectly good cables with it but the next time you need to replace cables then I'd recommend spending a bit more on Goer (although I think they're stopping making them so supply is going to be harder).
  • That's the thing though it creeps up on you so you don't really notice its shoddiness. It's only when you instal a new set and give the mech a good oil do you think - damn this is nice and slick and easy change.

    One of the few places where buy cheap, buy twice is a good thing.
  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    nferrar wrote:
    I use Gore cables on my MTBs and winter bikes, it's maintenance free (been over 2 years untouched on my main MTB). I wouldn't replace perfectly good cables with it but the next time you need to replace cables then I'd recommend spending a bit more on Gore (although I think they're stopping making them so supply is going to be harder).

    I'm also looking to have a new derailleur fitted (thats another story on my fairly new bike) so it will be the best time to get them fitted.
  • I'm not sure I'd spend out on the gore cables.

    There's nothing to stop you from running a cheap outer cable all the way back to the dérailleur. Just tie wrap it to the frame near the normal stops if you don't fancy filing them out. Or use some sticky things http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/m:part-self- ... prod13059/
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    I've used Gore cables several times over the years, they're alright, but IME once they start to go gritty they go very nasty very quickly.

    That and they're stopping making them as mentioned! Considering their price I'd definitely rather just refresh my cables more often!
  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    cheers for the replies.

    Seems its not worth the bother then, the cables were meant to be the best and thats why they made them again.

    I could run full outer casing but the task would be to get the angles of the bends right so the cable wasnt too tight ?
  • njee20
    njee20 Posts: 9,613
    On a hardtail you shouldn't have any problems with dodgy cables runs, far more of an issue on full suspension bikes with convoluted routing.
  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    Those who have done this before, how much outer casing did you order ?

    I've looked at the shimano xtr kits and you dont get the full outer casing run for front and back cables just the bits so the cable will still be exposed in parts.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Crc sell it by the metre. But often they will send it in bits, not a continuous run. Fortunately their metre is normally two.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    I picked up some Gore cables half price off ebay for £23. Fitted them to my Canyon Nerve F/S just before Xmas and they are still running beautifully light and precise dspite the cruddy winter. You need to regulary check the grub seal hasnt come away from the end of the inner to keep them clean. Great buy for £23 but wouldnt have bothered at list price.
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  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    yeah as i've been riding and my bike on many occasions has been covered in mud and i just wonder if i dont sort it the cables will get too corroded and may break on me, out on a ride miles from home.

    Can you cut the outer casing with some piers or will i need some proper cable cutters ?

    My next bike will definately have internal routed cables
  • They don't really get corroded, just change them every year and you'll be fine. You need quality cutters otherwise you'll make a mess.

    Internal routing is a pita, has its benefits has its downsides like most things.
  • stubs
    stubs Posts: 5,001
    They don't really get corroded, just change them every year and you'll be fine. You need quality cutters otherwise you'll make a mess.

    Would love it if non sealed cables lasted a year on my bikes :( Must depend on the mud ridden through and the bike design, though as I live on the coast that could have something to do with it. I reckon a set of cables will last the summer but need changing before and midway through winter and sometime in spring ready for the summer.
    Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap
  • EH_Rob
    EH_Rob Posts: 1,134
    Sorry to hijack - can anyone tell me if Shimano outer and cable is compatible with SRAM shifters/mechs?
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    Yes, cable is cable is cable. But some are better than others.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • Jagwire cables = Excellent performance - fit and forget!
    http://jagwire.com/products/v/mountain_pro_shift
  • swod1
    swod1 Posts: 1,639
    stubs wrote:
    They don't really get corroded, just change them every year and you'll be fine. You need quality cutters otherwise you'll make a mess.

    Would love it if non sealed cables lasted a year on my bikes :( Must depend on the mud ridden through and the bike design, though as I live on the coast that could have something to do with it. I reckon a set of cables will last the summer but need changing before and midway through winter and sometime in spring ready for the summer.

    well the gear cables are exposed along the underneath of the top tube and down the rear on my trek 4500.

    one of the links posted earlier in the thread has the ptfe coated shimano stainless cables for 7.50 each so not a cost issue to replace every so often are they.
  • I just paid 2.50 for a plain stainless one. Had some xtrs and ime were no better.