Nut jam! please advice.

markybear
markybear Posts: 3
edited February 2013 in MTB workshop & tech
Hey guys im new here, would like to get involved, but i need some help, sorry to be leaching straight away.
My rear bearings seem to have seized, which then i think has resulted in the nuts either side of my frame on the right hand side having tightened up so much they actually dig into the metal work. Before it jammed there was a nasty squeaking noise, i should've stopped to check.

I have now tried to loosen the nuts but had to apply so much force they have rounded off, so now i'm really up the creek without a paddle.

Any help, tips opinions would be well received.
Thanks, Mark

Comments

  • Looks a bit bent your axel, and bolts are not the best for MTB, looks a bit bso. Try knocking a proper spanner on should be 15 mm and make sure you're turning it the correct way
  • Plyphon
    Plyphon Posts: 433
    If you had used the correct sized spanner or socket it would of not rounded off.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Mole grips, or maybe a decent wall drive (as opposed to point drive) socket.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • irwin-record-300-stillson-wrenches-range.jpg

    Will remove the nuts but you will need to replace them

    http://www.powertoolsdirect.com/irwin-record-300-stillson-wrenches-range
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Bad idea, they are dreadful for rounding off nuts as you can't preload them like you can 'mole' (type) wrenches.
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    well that is all wrong.

    Looks like the wheel is off something with a different width rear.

    or it has been rebuilt in the wrong order.

    so you have greater issues than just the nuts.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
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  • If the wheel nuts are in a state like this, makes you wonder what the rest of the bike is like. Looks like it’d been subjected to Mr Clarkson’s hammer.
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  • Levi_501
    Levi_501 Posts: 1,105
    Mole grips

    +1
  • So disappointed I thought this thread was going to be about another recipe for another American style peanut butter and jam idea.

    Only joking would try a set of mole grips.
    Pain hurts much less if its topped off with beating your mates to top of a climb.
  • cooldad
    cooldad Posts: 32,599
    I was expecting the Nut Lube guy to be back with another bright? idea.
    I don't do smileys.

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  • Woah lots of replies.

    clear a few things up, its a second hand bike bought at auction, I use it around town so if it gets vandalised or stolen i wont want to cry about it. so yeah its not in a great way, it has to live outside too, really don't have any money to be buying new parts.

    And i definitely used a 15 spanner and it still rounded ...

    thanks for all the help, when i've tried will update if people are interested.
  • danlikesbikes
    danlikesbikes Posts: 3,898
    edited February 2013
    Other option is plenty of penetrating fluid & heating the nut up. If you do it quickly & get it out you shouldn't cause any damage to the bike.
    Pain hurts much less if its topped off with beating your mates to top of a climb.
  • batmo
    batmo Posts: 277
    nicklouse wrote:
    well that is all wrong.

    Looks like the wheel is off something with a different width rear.

    or it has been rebuilt in the wrong order.

    so you have greater issues than just the nuts.
    Ditto. The spacer inside the frame should be the other side of the locknut. Normally you find this arrangement with the 'fixed' cone on the drive side of the wheel to bring the locknut outside the freewheel.
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